January 22, 20179 yr So I picked this pristine north west been sitting for a year outback for free so I knew it would have problems and I'm ok with that. And today is the first chance I've gotten to work on it . So here's where I am with it #1 it won't start #2 after I try to start it or even turn the key to the on position and back it off and remove the key, the gauge lights stay on, the cooling fan stays on, i can use the wipers, the fuel pump runs, I'm sure there's more. #3 the cam seals leak but not an issue at this point in time I have the parts and tools to fix it on hand I have checked relays and fuses pulled the plastic around the colum to check for bad wires and nothing I just need a new direction to look for the issue I'm sure it is one item causing all the electrical problems and the no start condition
January 22, 20179 yr Author no the green connectors are not plugged in, and ill have to check if the switch gets hot next time I'm working on it.
January 22, 20179 yr Author i should add that the obd2 port has power with the key off im assuming that it shouldn't have power unless the key is in the on position
January 23, 20179 yr FWIW, My OBD2 scanner 'lights up' when plugged in with the key OFF, but only connects to ECU when key is ON.
January 31, 20179 yr Author so good news and bad news the ignition switch works as intended, but the OBD port doesnt work and when the key is off, i do get fuel pressure the fans come on, and all the dash lights stay on. i can hear relays click when i pull the battery to get everything to shut off. at this point i am assuming that the ECU took a dump on me. i guess the question is will just be able to plug and play the ECU or will i need to get it flashed.
January 31, 20179 yr Subaru ECU's are not prone to fail, how did you diagnose the ECU? could it be wiring damage? corossion, rodents... 02 ECU's are absolutely plug and play, all day long. it doesn't care what ECU you plug in, as long as it's from an 00-04. i assume it's a 4 cylinder - in 00-04 they have two different style timing triggers so you need an ECU that's matched to the cam triggers. i think they are different between auto's and manuals, so make sure you get an ECU from an automatic transmission. alternately you can swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam sprocket from the vehicle with the ECU as well and the automatic/manual doesn't matter any more. so basically the ECU and crank/drivers side cam sprockets have to be matched. Edited January 31, 20179 yr by grossgary
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?
January 31, 20179 yr Author Yes the car does run it lit off for a brief second before it wouldn't start
January 31, 20179 yr It's not a ground issue. 200 amps is normal for starting the vehicle right, so that shouldn't be an issue unless it's combined with something else...? 1. disconnect ECU and see if the lights turn off 2. disconnect the alternator and see if the lights go off 3. pull the fusible links and fuses one at a time to see which one turns the lights off.
February 26, 20179 yr Author It goes away when remove the ECM out of the system, no affect when I disconnect the alternator and I pulled and tested every fuse in the car. All good.
February 26, 20179 yr I would suspect a bad ignition switch to be honest. Unless I missed some other symptom in the thread. When you shut it off, what happens when you mess with the key, jiggle it forward and backward a bit and in and out. See what the lights, fans and relays do. Edited February 26, 20179 yr by GreaseMonkey03
March 5, 20179 yr Author got it figured out the main ground on the engine was really loose i must have overlooked it when i originally started to diagnose it Edited March 5, 20179 yr by Evil02outback
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