Too small of offset = quickly ruined wheel bearings?

[punx2400]

I have been reading alot on this sight over the last few months because I was excited about the idea of lifting my 95 wagon, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go get a 4" EJ lift kit from Scott at SJR soon.  

 

However...

 

Just in the last hour I've read about 5 threads on this whole "excessive wheel offset/wheel bearing" dilemma.  Is it really THAT bad, or do you trail guys really go through wheel bearings rapidly?  I don't see how it's possible to run significantly larger tires WITHOUT using negative offset wheels and/or wheel spacers, for the tires to clear the frame at full lock. 

Also, this is my plan. Tell me if I'm dreaming big, or just bat spoob crazy.

1995 Legacy Brighton wagon
Frankenmotor

4" SJR lift

'01 Forester struts and springs all around
Gabber AT2's in 265/70R15's 
15" American Racing AR172 Baja (15x8, 5x114.3mm, -19 offset, 3.75 backspace, 83.06 cb)
2" 5x100 to 5x114.3 adapter/spacers


Will this work??

 

[matt167]

If you run 2" adapters, yes your going to burn up wheel bearings quickly.

[Numbchux]

Yea, your wheel/tire selection is way out of whack.

 

 

265/70r15 is a pretty wide tire, I probably wouldn't recommend that. But that calculates to a 29.6" tall tire. That could probably be done with stock-backspacing wheels. 225 or 235/75r15 has been done hundreds of times with just Forester struts.

 

You're going from a +55 offset, to a -69.8 offset (-19 + 50.8 for the 2" spacers). That means you're moving the center of your tire out over 4.5" from stock. Holy chit.

 

The outer edge of the tire will be 6.5" further out than stock.

 

 

 

When people talk about mild extra bearing wear, we're typically talking about a change of 20mm or so, not 124.8. So yes, bearings are a huge concern. Scrub radius is an even bigger concern, the distance the tires travel front-to-back will be a huge problem with fender clearance, and will put huge load on your steering system.

 

 

For comparison. Here's a Legacy with Outback struts (slightly shorter than Forester), plus about 4" lift, stock Outback wheels (same offset to the stock 14s), 2" wheel spacers, and 31s (I don't know the width, probably 10.5")

IMG_13875 by Numbchux, on Flickr

 

at full lock:

IMG_13867 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Edited July 25, 2017 by Numbchux

[carfreak85]

2" spacer PLUS -19 mm offset wheels?  Your OE wheels were probably close to +50 mm of offset.  You're moving centerline of your wheel/tire almost 5 inches from where it originally was at the factory.

 

Yeah, your bearings don't stand a chance...

Edited May 22, 2017 by carfreak85

[punx2400]

Okay cool, thanks for the example. That really helps. So if I kept that aftermarket wheel with the dimensions it has, but maybe in a 7", put 235/75r15's on them, with the forester suspension, I should be golden right? I should've stated my intention beforehand. The car is ugly. Dented, rusted out really has no character aside from being a modest little grocery getter. It's my DD. I figured I'd put some big tires on it and a lift, give it a rugged look, make it look a little less sissified. I'm not looking to take it up to Walker and beat it senseless, just enough clearance to go puddle jumpin every now and then.

[Numbchux]

No, forget that wheel selection, it's terrible. Loosing an inch off the width doesn't change the almost 5" change in offset. Find some used 15" Subaru wheels, and use them.

 

I think 235s on stock Subaru wheels will clear the strut, but it's close. And with just a strut lift you may have to cut the body.

[punx2400]

Uuuuugh... Subie steelies are just so damn ugly though. Haha

[Fairtax4me]

Do an STI hub swap for the 114 lug pattern and you can run those wheels without the spacers so you have that deep dished look. But use a 16" wheel so you can fit larger brakes, and use a 4 or 4.5" backspace if they are available.

 

Otherwise if you really want to run the spacers (not something I recommend) use a like a 1-1/4" spacer and get the wheels with a 5" backspacing.

[Gloyale]

remember too, that when you push the wheels out......they "swing" forward and aft more during the turn  so you are further out from the framerail, but more likely to rub the front of the fender arch, and possibly and more concerningly, stuffing against the rear of the wheel...espescially during compression.

 

Oh and yeah the added width will give rocks a larger lever to act on........AKA...... bump steer......... will rip the steering wheel out of your hand and break your thumbs first time you hit catch a big root or rock with the outside edge.

[punx2400]

Sweet, thanks for the input fellas!