So I was driving from Ashland to Portland today and it was like 100F on I-5.

 

When I ran the AC it was cold SOME of the time then the condenser would squeal and it would not be cold. 

 

When I stopped to rest I decided to check out the squeal and the clutch was locking up after a few turns and the belt was what was squealing and burning a little. So I stopped the AC form running (which I explain further down)

 

Is there a way to fix the AC clutch without letting the refrigerant out? Since it is R12 it would probably not be worth fixing if I had to spend money on refrigerant.

 

There is a second problem which if I could not fix the first i would not worry about, The AC clutch kicks on even when the AC is not set. My theory is that the upper position of the  AC button, which has two positions, is stuck "closed" thus always on when the fan is on. To fix this on the road I disconnected the clutch and the evaporator. My first thought is to replace the unit with the buttons after testing the circuit. What do you guys think?

 

If the fix is too difficult I will leave the condenser running as a pulley and not have AC.

 

Thanks!

The compressor clutch should only engauges in ac and defrost modes - at least for an ea82 powered car. It should cycle on and off depending on the cooling load, controlled by a fixed thermostat in the evaporator.

 

Under high heat conditions, the compressor will be under heavier loading - is it possible the belts are loose?

 

The ac clutch mechanically connects the big pull whichis essentially just a big idler, to the compressor. If the compressor was beginning to sieze, that could make the belts slip even if they are properly tight.

Your first issue sounds like the compressor going out. I had the same issue with my wagon. It would come on and seize, I would cut it off and back on and it would work the rest of the drive to work. The number of times I had to "reset" it increased to a point it was time to stop using it before it let go completely and spread its guts all over the system in tiny pieces.

 

As to it being worthwhile to fix: You can order R134 online for slightly less than $5 a can in bulk. I used a 20% coupon from HF to by a set of gauges and a vacuum pump, and replaced the compressor. Works fine now, and I have used the tools to fix my other A/C (Don't forget the oil, and you will need to buy the 134 fittings, not expensive.) There are videos all over about how to properly charge your system, along with information on the forum about capacities and such. 

 

I have read here somewhere about bypassing the control panel and putting the compressor on a switch. (Person didn't want the compressor to run in defrost.) Might do a search and modify the info to fit your issue. 

 

Good luck!

 

Dan

If you're worried your compressor is about to lock down, you can unplug the clutch. There are 2 plugs coming off the compressor. One multi wire one single. Unplug the single. That will disable the clutch.

You can buy rebuilt A/C compressors off of Ebay.  You would possibly be reusing your old clutch.  The clutch may require a new bearing.  Simply unscrew the front of it to expose the bearing.   Using a circular clip remover, remove the clutch.  Pound out the bearing.  Buy new bearing at Ace Hardware.  Replace clutch.

Thanks for all the answers. The bearing is a great suspect and I think I would like to try that first. For now I unplugged the clutch and the evaporator. If I had time eventually I would love to learn to use the tools and upgrade the system. I will try the bearing suggestion when I get some time. Thanks! kmpdx

The clutch bearing will not cause binding when the AC compressor is engaged since it's not moving then. When the clutch is engaged, it magnetically clamps the pulley to the compressor shaft powering the compressor. When it is disengaged. the pulley freewheels on the bearing and the shaft doesn't move. If your description of it locking up when engaged is accurate, replacing the clutch bearing will do you no good. Your compressor is going out.

Thanks for the reply. So if the compressor is going out can I leave the clutch unhooked indefinitely? 

Yes, if you are having no problem when the clutch is disabled, it's not a clutch problem. If it loads up and causes trouble when engaged, it's a compressor problem. The big bearing that supports the pulley will last a long time. It is just a big idler once you disconnect the clutch wire.