Hey guys, I've done some research on this looking for options of ej racks swapped into the ea cars. Basically my stock rack is done, internal seals leak so bad it just fills the boot and then pees everywhere. I'd like to upgrade to an ej rack if possible and I've seen it done but no thorough write ups. What exactly needs to be done?

I"ve done it, and would not recommend again.

 

The EJ rack is too wide between the inner tierods. (needs to be the same distance as between control arm pivots minus the distance from lower ball joint to tie rod arm of the knuckle.)

 

What happens is you can get the Toe correct while wheels pointed straight and stationary.  But movement of the suspension up and down, and turning wheels side to side the alignment goes off.

 

Toe out during suspension plunge and in turns.  

 

The car was and is driveable.  But it eats tires and feels weird in fast curvy road sections.

 

I found a good EA82 rack in a late loyale 2wd sedan.  Look for a 2wd one, they aren't as beat on and ussually in good shape.

Just buy a new one off of RockAuto. I just bought one about 6 months ago and it has worked flawlessly. Think it cost $140, even came with inner tie rod ends.

Just buy a new one off of RockAuto. I just bought one about 6 months ago and it has worked flawlessly. Think it cost $140, even came with inner tie rod ends.

That's my other option if I don't upgrade but if it's easy I figure why not lol. BTW I follow you on Instagram love your car

Thanks brother!! You have a pretty sweet wagon yourself!

Edited August 9, 20178 yr by iluvdrt

I bought one in the past and it didn't seem to feel as good as a stock one. It drove and operated fine so it wasn't bad but it didn't feel as solid and crisp. I'm not usually discerning or picky with stuff like that. For that price and value of not repeating the repair it's certainly worth it. I installed three racks before getting one that didn't leak, that's a total waste of time but parts are harder to find here.

 

Ive kept a couple to maybe attempt a rebuild but doubt I'll even do it. There's a legacy forum thread where someone rebuilt one.

Edited August 9, 20178 yr by idosubaru

I"ve done it, and would not recommend again.

 

The EJ rack is too wide between the inner tierods. (needs to be the same distance as between control arm pivots minus the distance from lower ball joint to tie rod arm of the knuckle.)

 

What happens is you can get the Toe correct while wheels pointed straight and stationary. But movement of the suspension up and down, and turning wheels side to side the alignment goes off.

 

Toe out during suspension plunge and in turns.

 

The car was and is driveable. But it eats tires and feels weird in fast curvy road sections.

 

I found a good EA82 rack in a late loyale 2wd sedan. Look for a 2wd one, they aren't as beat on and ussually in good shape.

Hm I can get a new one from orielly for only 140$ through my discount might be worth it and maybe rebuild my stock and just eat the core charge. Or turn mine in and get one that doesn't look bad from a junkyarf and try going through it then.

I bought one in the past and it didn't seem to feel as good as a stock one. It drove and operated fine so it wasn't bad but it didn't feel as solid and crisp. I'm not usually discerning or picky with stuff like that. For that price and value of not repeating the repair it's certainly worth it. I installed three racks before getting one that didn't leak, that's a total waste of time but parts are harder to find here.

 

Ive kept a couple to maybe attempt a rebuild but doubt I'll even do it. There's a legacy forum thread where someone rebuilt one.

You bought an ea one? Where from? I tend to use orielly or "first call" their commercial side before anything else and try to stay semi loyal to them lol.

Actually I installed it in an XT6 so scratch that, they're steering is completely different. it didn't seem related to that but they're so different I have no leg to stand on with that suspicion. It was an EA rack but I don't recall where it was from, I think I grabbed it off eBay - I'll probably try a different source if I do it again.

Edited August 9, 20178 yr by idosubaru

Rock Auto I bought for $140 shipped. I installed, bled it and the handling is crisp compared to the old leaking stock rack. Just needs an alignment and we will be good to go

today I came to the conclusion that I definitely need to replace my steering rack. Steering wheel has lots of play, when on a hoist and moving the wheels left/right I can hear the creaking of the rack. Steering column  coupling is fine. Soooooo.....I have a parts car and can take out the rack from there.....but , pardon my ignorance, what am I looking for? How do I determine what the problem is in my present rack, and what to look for in my 'parts' rack...should I want to replace it for the shot one> Maybe the parts car has a shot rack tooo?

Or is a new one the way to go? I live in Australia....thanks fellas.(ladies)

Edited October 25, 20178 yr by rae houghton

today I came to the conclusion that I definitely need to replace my steering rack. Steering wheel has lots of play, when on a hoist and moving the wheels left/right I can hear the creaking of the rack. Steering column coupling is fine. Soooooo.....I have a parts car and can take out the rack from there.....but , pardon my ignorance, what am I looking for? How do I determine what the problem is in my present rack, and what to look for in my 'parts' rack...should I want to replace it for the shot one> Maybe the parts car has a shot rack tooo?

Or is a new one the way to go? I live in Australia....thanks fellas.(ladies)

Look for tears in the rack boots. They're just dust covers so make sure there is NO fluid leaking out. It's nice if the inner rods are stiff but off a parts car I doubt it. Floppy will still be fine. Really just make sure nothing leaks.

today I came to the conclusion that I definitely need to replace my steering rack. Steering wheel has lots of play, when on a hoist and moving the wheels left/right I can hear the creaking of the rack. Steering column  coupling is fine. Soooooo.....I have a parts car and can take out the rack from there.....but , pardon my ignorance, what am I looking for? How do I determine what the problem is in my present rack, and what to look for in my 'parts' rack...should I want to replace it for the shot one> Maybe the parts car has a shot rack tooo?

Or is a new one the way to go? I live in Australia....thanks fellas.(ladies)

 

Check that's it's not just the inner tierods.