Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Andymccauley

1981 Hatch DL 4WD EJ22 Swap

Recommended Posts

Sooooo I found this car when I was looking for a pressure washer on the Facebook marketplace right when that feature was added for $200, the things that sold me on it was not the fact that the motor would barely stay running and smoked like no other car I've ever seen and a brand new Weber... It was the mounds of spare parts it came with, spare FWD tranny, EA71 block, complete spare EA81, Boxes of brand new parts, wheel bearings, balljoints, brakes, etc..

 

Mzrt5NeW_o.jpg

 

82fZuqP9_o.jpg

 

aMcTv17P_o.jpg

 

svSJRjeC_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sat in front of my house for a long time I started it every now and then and played with the carb alot which didn't do alot, still smoked, still wouldn't stay running..

 

So I found a donor for $175 with a bad tranny, tried to part out what I wasnt gunna use, sold absolutely nothing

 

BJAxQwkd_o.jpg

 

885yayiH_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well since the legacy had 265k on the odometer, I'm guessing the motor was original, judging by the symptoms of blown headgaskets and oil leaking out of every seal. I pulled the heads, got them resurfaced and ordered a gasket kit and timing belt kit, still need a few more odds and ends

 

sPRG0jrf_o.jpg

 

JFrkINyf_o.jpg

 

WlETgiaf_o.jpg

 

fPa50DOr_o.jpg

 

Motor reassembly will happen soon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got 1 head on today, gunna get the other on soon, after the intake is back on I'm gunna pressure wash the long block and the engine bay of the DL.

 

ZoPPe9yW_o.jpg

Edited by Andymccauley
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And both the heads are on, might do the water pump and timing belt today too. Then threw the valve covers on and put the shaft seals in.

 

i2cPK1hC_o.jpg

 

TRgOEOQU_o.jpg

Edited by Andymccauley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, I'm gunna be pulling this EA81 out soon, it's basically just sitting in the engine bay, everything is unbolted. Planned on using the flywheel for the swap, but I'm not sure on what clutch kit to get...

 

From what I've been reading the Xt6/ea82 kits are basically the same nowadays. But will they bolt On and work correctly to a ea81 flywheel and in the ea81 d/R 4spd?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, I'm gunna be pulling this EA81 out soon, it's basically just sitting in the engine bay, everything is unbolted. Planned on using the flywheel for the swap, but I'm not sure on what clutch kit to get...

 

From what I've been reading the Xt6/ea82 kits are basically the same nowadays. But will they bolt On and work correctly to a ea81 flywheel and in the ea81 d/R 4spd?

 

 

No an EA82 kit will not work with a 4spd.  Step on flywheel wrong, Spline in disc wrong, Throwout wrong size.

 

You need a kit for a late model brat.  225mm disc, 7/8th" shaft........83+  I'd look it up as an 84...so you don't overlap the EA82 stuff

 

That 4spd won't hold up to a 2.2 for long.  Save the headache and get a 5spd D/R or an AWD EJ 5spd.....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No an EA82 kit will not work with a 4spd. Step on flywheel wrong, Spline in disc wrong, Throwout wrong size.

 

You need a kit for a late model brat. 225mm disc, 7/8th" shaft........83+ I'd look it up as an 84...so you don't overlap the EA82 stuff

 

That 4spd won't hold up to a 2.2 for long. Save the headache and get a 5spd D/R or an AWD EJ 5spd.....

Ok sick, I kept finding stuff for ea82 to ej22 swaps, not alot on ea81. Just wasn't sure of compatibility between the EAs.

 

As for the 4spd, this is a budget build I have maybe 600 into this swap including the adapter plate, an unequal length header, ej gasket/timing kit, heads resurfaced and both cars ;D so when the tranny goes I'll deal with that then

Edited by Andymccauley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welp pulled the EA81 today, pressure washed the engine bay real good and found out that thing had a brand new luk clutch attached to it, so now I don't have to buy one.

 

Z0svzkky_o.jpg

 

E79OorKk_o.jpg

 

wwja2ljh_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some minor stuff today. Removed the water pump and cleaned the gasket surface, the paper gasket was torn in the box so waiting on one from amazon.. crossover pipe o-rings, new coolant hoses from the block to intake, intake bolted on.

 

Just need a rear main, rear block seals and the flywheel resurfaced and I think I'll be good to go.

 

wyLEVu3L_o.jpg

Edited by Andymccauley

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some minor stuff today. Removed the water pump and cleaned the gasket surface, the paper gasket was torn in the box so waiting on one from amazon.

 

If it's an EJ engine you want a metal gasket.

 

Paper sucks and is aftermarket cheap crap.

 

Factory gasket is metal.  Get one from the dealer for 6 bucks.  or skip it entirely and use Right Stuff sealant....but for gods sake don't use that paper crap.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's an EJ engine you want a metal gasket.

 

Paper sucks and is aftermarket cheap crap.

 

Factory gasket is metal. Get one from the dealer for 6 bucks. or skip it entirely and use Right Stuff sealant....but for gods sake don't use that paper crap.

The one I ordered is nearly the same as factory, I've never had a problem with any paper gasket, as long as both surfaces are cleaned thoroughly and aligned correctly they always work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the EA flywheel resurfaced, and hammered the EJ pilot bearing out a little, the EA and EJ pilot bearings are the same diameter so used the EJs as a guide and then painted where the EA flywheel holes need to be messaged.

 

OfTfBIFV_o.jpg

 

Ib8e95KG_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Following your swap closely, thanks for the updates. I have a 87 Brat, bought 20 years ago this November. Just purchased a 93 legacy for my 2.2l swap. Have to use my 4 speed dual range also. Older Subarus are not that easily found in my neck of the woods. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are you going to use to modify the holes?

I started using this harbor freight pneumatic rasp bit, got 1 hole almost done before it was completely trashed so whenever I get some money I'll probably invest in like 15 of them to go through lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Following your swap closely, thanks for the updates. I have a 87 Brat, bought 20 years ago this November. Just purchased a 93 legacy for my 2.2l swap. Have to use my 4 speed dual range also. Older Subarus are not that easily found in my neck of the woods.

Dude that is way cool, the wiring portion of it I would probably go a different route on a car that I cared about, but this thing is pretty much gunna be a backup daily/Wheeler. So when I get there you'll see what I mean.

 

I love old brats, I would only want to own a clean one though. The clapped out ones make me sad to look at.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The one I ordered is nearly the same as factory, I've never had a problem with any paper gasket, as long as both surfaces are cleaned thoroughly and aligned correctly they always work.

It will leak within a year.

 

not menat to have a paper gasket don't use it.

 

Years of experience and hundreds of water pumps replaced are speaking here.

 

I started using this harbor freight pneumatic rasp bit, got 1 hole almost done before it was completely trashed so whenever I get some money I'll probably invest in like 15 of them to go through lol

 

Skip the harbor freight and the pnuematic tool.  Unless you have a monster compressor, you will be waiting for the tank to refill to keep RPMs.  Buy a dremel branded end mill and a dremel to put it in if you don't have one.

 

slow, small passes taking just a mm or less at a time and you will be done with all 8 holes in an hour or 2 tops.  Don't be agressive and try to use the entire side of the bit.....just the tip and shave off little arching passes progressively deeper, layer by layer.  If you try to use the side of the bit against the hole like a grinder, you will struggle, and go through lots of bits.

 

I've done 3 or 4 flywheels now with the same endmill.  It's harder on the tip bearing in the dremel than it is on the bits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×