koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) MY #1 pin is at the bottom RIGHT of my ECM, All other schematics show #1 to be TOP LEFT or TOP RIGHT only.... How the hell is this possible? If my attachment will not blow up properly for anyone interested I can email is directly to you and you'll definitely be able to see the numbers from the original photo... Only the harness plug is numbered, the ECM pins are not. Edited January 8, 2018 by koolminx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Look closely... Tell me where I'm screwing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Here is the ECM reference to pins 2 through 27, as pin 1 as marked on harness is not used, neither is pin 28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I know, this stuff can be such a pita. My suggestion is to look at the wiring diagram and find a wire color for something that you will need to test, say the cam sensor input. Pin 6, and it's ground pin, 5 The wiring diagram shows the pos side as a white with red stripe wire, and the ground is green. Or just look at the cam sensor itself. Then find the wires on the harness. With the harness plugged in or facing away from you, pin 1 is on my upper right. Remember the pin 15 and 16 trick i suggested? Those are in the upper left and both have yellow with BLUE stripes (Sorry i said red i was going from memory) Also the bottom right are two black wires with yellow stripes, Pins 71 and 72 Those happen to be your injector grounds. That is how mine is at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 With my harness plugged in and facing away from me the upper numbers are in the 90s my lower right is number one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 But I will do the wire ID as you suggest after I plug in these three components and see if she will start which given my current predicament of my daughter's Acura Integra and some vacuum issues will be an hour or two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Pins 15 and 16 on my harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Looking at your other picture, your harness looks the same: Pins 71 and 72 black with yellow stripe Pin 1 upper right. light green, fuel injector 2 and those colors match the wiring diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Am I PCM my bottom left 71 and 72 are black with a white stripe my far right which would be 9596 or 9495 are black with a yellow stripe. On my harness itself the black with yellow stripe are number two and three and if I go above that the very last top-right wire is light or mint green with a red stripe going around it and the one to the left of it which I guess would be to According to some diagrams and number 15 according to others is brown with silver dots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Question. What is the power TR unit? Sits in the center of the firewall above the transmission mount Wishbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 I imagine that it has something to do with the transmission but hell what the hell do I know anymore LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 That's the igniter, it supplies the coil with 12v. Find it on the pinout yourself lol! Just joshin ya man keep it up she'll be purrin like a kitten soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) Well I did have voltage to my coil pack but I also put on the one from my buddies 98th and I'm going to try that as soon as my son gets home with the keys to the damn car what a retard asked me to fix his poop and then leaving with the keys for college... Edited January 8, 2018 by koolminx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 If you think that unit from his 98 which has an identical coil is my car will not work let me know and I'll just pop mine back in it but since they were identical coils I think I should be okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Neither of those have gone bad from what I have seen which admittedly isn't a whole lot. The one from the 98 should be the same. Are you using the same pinout as i am? 71 and 72 lower right the two black with yellow 15 and 16 upper left both yellow with a blue stripe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Send me a text to 360-801-5999 and I will reply with some photographs showing you what colors in what positions rather than having to email them to myself go inside and use the PC resize them and put them up here on the site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Alrighty...lets see if this works haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thabks, sending Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Large connectors often have some kind of numbering system on them, and it often doesn't match the Pinout diagrams used in service manuals. FORGET the numbers printed ON the connector. Identify the pins BY WIRE COLOR, and work from there. Also, calm down! Don't give yourself a damn coronary trying to figure this out. This thing ain't rocket science and you're not trying to learn Hungarian. It's wires and a box, step back and drink a beer or five look at it from a different angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 The ignitor on the firewall is the transistor(s) that switch power to the coil pack to fire it. Just match up a few wire colors with numbers and you will soon get a picture of the numbering scheme. It should take no more than identifying colors of each corner wire and the wires adjacent to them then determining the pinout numbers from there. Ignore the labeling on the connectors. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 I hesitate to derail this pinout discussion but you mentioned a toggle switch and it seems like you got this car from a previous owner that dId some other custom wiring, you mentioned grounds. I’d be checking that toggle wiring and other edited wiring. No one here would be shocked, or hasn’t seen, custom wiring be an issue. I’d also be verifying the year/part of the vehicle, engine, ECU and other components. Maybe this thing was swapped or wrong parts were installed before you got it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 (edited) Yes in all likelihood this will end up being related to aftermarket $hitty wiring. Things like this almost always are. Definitely a good idea to look that junk over. Barring seeing the problem there, the idea is to verify power and ground leads to the ECU and then trace back if they don't exist. GD Edited January 9, 2018 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Okay update. I put in a new ECU computer control relay I now have two clicks I now have positive voltage and I have ground to my injector pins at the ECM I have a good crank sensor I have a good cam sensor I have a brand new good coil the only time my noid light on the injectors will flash is after I release the key exactly as shown in the previous videos does this mean that the ECM is fried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Yes I have 12 volts to my injectors yes I have 36 PSI fuel pressure no the timing has not jumped the timing belt is new and intact both timing covers are off and the car was running prior to his failure to start which means it was driven to the store shut off my son walked in the store came back out and the car just crank and crank and crank and crank to no avail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolminx Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 So my dear friends I could use a few new testing points. And my ECM the two injector wires which are yellow with a blue stripe rather thick wires are at the top left of my ECM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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