If you have dissembled a box to that extreme level of selector shafts out, including interlock plungers

 

Bloody had one pop out on me !

 

Can you look in the ball and spring detent hole and see arseend of pinion bearing locating pin or a hole?

If I've got what your saying correct, behind those retainer bolts on the side of the gearbox for the gear selector rods will be a spring and ball.

Between each selector rod is a dedent rod/pill looking thing. These are all bastards to get back in place as you need to get the sequence right to do so. 

I'd be referencing a workshop manual to see if there's a guide on how to do it. 

And here I thought you'd have an electrical issue for Gannon!

Cheers

Bennie

I think this post here helps out with what you're after Jono.

Cheers

Bennie

Here I am,... but Im pretty green when it comes to playing with transmissions. 

Ive swapped the EJ stuff into my EA case, half assembled it waiting for a paint pen to check the backlash. I then have to pull it apart, seal the halves and put it back together properly

I didnt pull the selectors out

One problem I did run into was that the input shaft bearing housings are different, so I had to machine a few mm of the splines of the EA input shaft so I could assemble the EJ dual range gears onto it. 

 

Gannon, it's good practice to move the selector forks with the gearsets so the ring and fork combo have worn together at the same rate. This also ensures that you don't have any unforeseen issues due to a slight change in something between these selector forks and the gearset selector rings.

A good trick with the back last etc is to leave the input shaft and it's housing out when putting the halves together - it gives a very nice window to watch things through

Cheers

Bennie

1 hour ago, el_freddo said:

Gannon, it's good practice to move the selector forks with the gearsets so the ring and fork combo have worn together at the same rate. This also ensures that you don't have any unforeseen issues due to a slight change in something between these selector forks and the gearset selector rings.

This is true, but more so to end up with the proper fork clearance. Remember, the forks are selective and you must use an "A, B or C" fork dependent on the gearset and case differences. 

1 hour ago, el_freddo said:

A good trick with the back last etc is to leave the input shaft and it's housing out when putting the halves together - it gives a very nice window to watch things through

Cheers

Bennie

This^ is a fantastic idea Bennie!!

Oh Scott, don't say that. I sort of need to catch your drift there.

 

I need to swap all the gizzards into another pair of cases. At this stage the shift rods and forks etc are staying in there respective cases.

I suppose it not hurt to sneak a look at wherever the a b or c marks are to compare.

 

I will use the good trick of leaving input stuff out and see if that makes life easier.

 

And actually Gannon - I DO have an AC electrical querie unresolved regarding 2 way switches working  nicely, now I wanna shove in a SAL dimmer switch STM350 ?

Thought I also needed a slave for the other end - there is two switches, why not two dimmer soft touch switches too ? Got one master, one slaveand what looks like too many wires.

 

Gearbox first !

On 6/16/2018 at 7:47 AM, ausubaru92 said:

One problem I did run into was that the input shaft bearing housings are different, so I had to machine a few mm of the splines of the EA input shaft so I could assemble the EJ dual range gears onto it. 

 

Do you mean like this:

EJ hub on the left, EA on the right - machined to fit the EJ upper gearset shaft.

And yes, the input shaft bearing housings are different unless you get a Gen1 Series1 gearbox that's 3.9 ratio (from memory they're 3.9).  To fix this you need to have an interference bush created to mate the EA low range input shaft with the EJ bearing.  Any decent machine shop should be able to do this at a reasonable cost.

And here's the diff setting without the input shaft housing in place - loads of viewing space!

Cheers

Bennie

Edited June 17, 20187 yr by el_freddo

Yep thats exactly what I did (machine some of the teeth out of the centre of the gear)

Didnt consider swapping the selectors.

I left the input shaft out like that but thats as far as I got

Jono, its hard to explain without seeing the wires you have at each switch (I assume it was an existing 2 way switch)

photos coming up !!  watch this space

Keeping on topic of gearbox and those shift rods and capsule shape detent things - they are in the cast iron piece holding 5R and 3.4 rods in a relation ship and in the casing at right angles to the shift rods at the line of three detent plugs on the outside.

Stripped my spare spare 25 splined NA mpfi box to the nth degree as far as shifters rods are concerned with -3° air temp and sunlight on my back to observe the fit rods back in process and capsule shaped detents go before any rods go in

Now, after that little message from our sponsors( because phones and toilets do not mix) I removed the forks in gear number order 1-2 ,  3-4 then 5R though it has me why factory manuals have " removing 5th shifter fork" as the first step & diagram !! But Fuji's English is way better than my Japanese ...

You read a manual for this?

Bennie

wisdom comes with age and a few stuff ups Bennie  I want to be able to drive one of these boxes at least.

 

The little capsule shaped interlocks, I only pulled two from where manual indicates should be three

 

When I pull gearboxes apart, I would prefer to be inside a sealed fridge box or something to at least catch the little bits that try to bugger off from me !

 

I did find this latest box was not a "nuts up" example so figure someone has been in it before.

Turning the  main guts case on its side, out popped what looks like a roller bearing pin about 12mm long, about 3mm diameter

 

Absolutely no hidea where it came from, and whether it came from where it shouldn't be , or not

 

This latest was an mpfi 5MT DR PT 4WD and it was a text book case when it came to the start of undoing bits - whereas the FT4WD DR box did not half, or give me half the trouble this latest one did. BUT, the anti reverse mystery cylinder popped out for me. Only second time this has happened. Mentor Tambox will be on my case if I don't get things right !!

The PT4wd boxes are harder due to all the dedet balls and kit for the 4wd engaging mechanism.

This is way AWD boxes are so much easier to work on!

Cheers

Bennie