1 hour ago, brus brother said:

do you need to clear srs codes once repair is made?

I don't know if you have to clear the #26 error code. Hopefully some one on the board will answer that.

1 hour ago, brus brother said:

you only tried twice...

the guy on this video was successful on the third try!

my dad used to say "it's already broken, how much more can you break it"?

Give the soldering one more shot before you pick up the new one?

Wish I understood how to do the resistance check on the circuit board.

2 hours ago, brus brother said:

do you need to clear srs codes once repair is made?

I don't know. Hopefully someone here can answer that.

I just searched a few youtube videos and it appears that code should clear itself after you turn the ignition on/off/on so probably no specific other clearing procedure. Reason I asked is I saw one video but it was for wrx where they shorted pins but doesn't appear relevant here??

Have one last go at re-soldering?

I just did an ohm test on the map light. All ohm values look correct. The paper to the right of the map light are the recorded ohms test results. Whats my next step to solving the code 26 srs light.

Well the LED's have to work in addition to the resistors. Have you tested them with the meter? It's easy to do.....

GD

29 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Well the LED's have to work in addition to the resistors. Have you tested them with the meter? It's easy to do.....

GD

I thought r1  thru r4 were the resisters. Are you saying r1 thru r4 are just the resisters for the bulbs. D1 and r1 thru r4 test results are on the paper to the right of map light. Where are the resisters that I should be testing with the meter. Sorry for all the questions. I'm a novice at this srs problem I'm having.

To clarify. The number in the boxes on the paper next to the map light are ohm measurements from my multi meter.

Edited September 12, 20187 yr by steve56

steve. while those values may be correct. Unless you actually scratched the trace below and exposed the copper, you still can't be sure that you have gotten a good solder joint. I am no expert and always remind myself of the lament 'I cut that board three times and it is still too short"

any interest in re-flowing those solder joints perhaps with a touch of fresh solder? from the video, the fellow struggled to get it right.

as I said earlier, I bought a new unit before discovering the "fix" so I am just cheering you on from the cheap seats.

1 minute ago, brus brother said:

steve. while those values may be correct. Unless you actually scratched the trace below and exposed the copper, you still can't be sure that you have gotten a good solder joint. I am no expert and always remind myself of the lament 'I cut that board three times and it is still too short"

any interest in re-flowing those solder joints perhaps with a touch of fresh solder? from the video, the fellow struggled to get it right.

as I said earlier, I bought a new unit before discovering the "fix" so I am just cheering you on from the cheap seats.

Yes. Good points. Just because I tested with meter, does't mean whats under the solder is good. I have re flowed and added solder on d1 and r1 thru r4 twice. I do have a new map light assembly coming to my Subaru dealership on Friday. Just wanted to try the diagnosis and repair first.

I have read on a few electrical forums that you can't properly test the resistance of a resistor that is soldered to a circuit board.  You are testing every other component in that circuit.

 

 

you are correct msmithmmx

 

10 minutes ago, msmithmmx said:

I have read on a few electrical forums that you can't properly test the resistance of a resistor that is soldered to a circuit board.  You are testing every other component in that circuit.

 

 

Thanks for adding that input msmithmmx. I've never tested a circuit board on a map light. I'm a rookie on the whole srs light problem I'm having.

Resolder R1 resistor.  Seems like all you do is warm the contacts up a little until it goes to liquid.  Maybe add a dab of solder to the point on your solder gun.

On 9/11/2018 at 10:10 PM, steve56 said:

I don't know if you have to clear the #26 error code. Hopefully some one on the board will answer that.

the codes will clear on their own once the issue is resolved.  it is real-time information.  it only shows the code if an issue is detected.  solve the code and the light goes away, maybe after a drive cycle or two. 

thanks for getting the info out on the scanner, that's awesome, got one in my amazon cart. 

3 hours ago, steve56 said:

Thanks for adding that input msmithmmx. I've never tested a circuit board on a map light. I'm a rookie on the whole srs light problem I'm having.

i think most of us are rookie-ish when it comes to circuit board diagnosis and testing. 

2 hours ago, idosubaru said:

the codes will clear on their own once the issue is resolved.  it is real-time information.  it only shows the code if an issue is detected.  solve the code and the light goes away, maybe after a drive cycle or two.

Didn't know I needed a couple of drive cycles to turn off the srs light after repair. After watching MrSubaru code 26 YouTube video, I thought the srs light was instant off after the problem was corrected. I haven't done any drive cycles. Maybe mine is fixed and I just need a couple of drive cycles for light to turn off.

Edited September 13, 20187 yr by steve56

Whenever I have replaced the map light or soldered it, I have cleared the code with my scanner. If you can read it, can you not also clear it?

16 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Whenever I have replaced the map light or soldered it, I have cleared the code with my scanner. If you can read it, can you not also clear it?

My Autel MaxiLink  ml629 from Amazon is reading the srs error 26 but not erasing the srs error 26. I'm sending it back and getting the Autel MaxiLink al629 from Amazon.

Search around. I recall reading that removing the positive and negative leads to the battery and then joining them together for a period of time will clear the codes. Then reconnect the positive cable to the positive terminal and then negative.

I will hunt around and get back to you. Hopefully someone else will chime in and warn if this will blow up your car.

Just got a text answer from a subie tech who said code should reset itself.

Also check out https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/42574-2006-obw-airbag-light-my-fix-1.html

post #80 they got SOA to pay for repair

I'm only up to page 9 but thought I'd give you some reading while you wait for others to chime in. There are many excellent photo write ups. Seems that various points on the board are subject to poor solder connections. One poster with apparent electrical background does a fine analysis of the root cause.

If you can return the scanner, do, and put the money towards the console if you end up taking it from the dealer. You were advised before the scanner purchase what the problem was by other members here.

Anyways, nobody at this multi-page link speaks of erasing or resetting the code.

Did you try gently re-flowing (All) the solder connections for the third time? Be careful as I once was so aggressive with soldering in my earlier days that I actually toasted the copper beneath the board!
EDIT: Just finished page 12 and someone even solved it by re-flowing solder of one of the LEDs.

Edited September 14, 20187 yr by brus brother

On 9/12/2018 at 10:31 PM, idosubaru said:

the codes will clear on their own once the issue is resolved.  it is real-time information.  it only shows the code if an issue is detected.  solve the code and the light goes away, maybe after a drive cycle or two. 

if the issue is fixed it shouldn't need cleared. 

all the older generations are like that and i've been told newer ones are still the same.  the system is looking at real time information and will clear it on it's own if it no longer sees a code.  wait a few drive cycles as it may be more than just one data point it's looking at - it may involve an algorithm, database, series, array or some other metric looking at instances within a certain framework that will populate itself out over time. 

5 hours ago, idosubaru said:

if the issue is fixed it shouldn't need cleared. 

all the older generations are like that and i've been told newer ones are still the same.  the system is looking at real time information and will clear it on it's own if it no longer sees a code.  wait a few drive cycles as it may be more than just one data point it's looking at - it may involve an algorithm, database, series, array or some other metric looking at instances within a certain framework that will populate itself out over time. 

 

On 9/12/2018 at 11:56 PM, GeneralDisorder said:

Whenever I have replaced the map light or soldered it, I have cleared the code with my scanner. If you can read it, can you not also clear it?

I did the re solder of map light and still have srs light on in gauge cluster. The Autel 629 is reading the code but not erasing the code. Could have repaired the map light and the Autel isn't erasing it or the repair didn't work and the Autel is working correctly. Like your idea regarding doing a few drive cycles and seeing if the srs module is looking at some other database before it turns the srs light off.

steve. if you want a second set of eyes on the project, please post or send me a high res picture of both sides of the board. I can forward to a buddy for a quick look (he designs and builds pc boards)

3 hours ago, brus brother said:

steve. if you want a second set of eyes on the project, please post or send me a high res picture of both sides of the board. I can forward to a buddy for a quick look (he designs and builds pc boards)

Thank for the offer. My neighbor is a computer guy. That's who actually did the soldering . He also did the ohms check on the resisters and diodes. So I have a hands on second set of eyes.

The new map light assembly from Subaru dealer solved the srs light in dash. The srs light went off immediately with no reset with scanner needed.  I had re soldered the old map light assembly twice and never got the srs light to to turn off in dash.

Perhaps too much heat was used and fried something. I have soldered a couple dozen of these and it's 100% success rate so far. Strange. 

GD