Hi all - I have a Brumby I want to resurrect - the motor was overheated and left for some time with coolant sitting in two of the cylinders (not by me !) the bores have pitting and while its not too bad its probably not worth the risk of putting it back together and finding it smokes its head off - thing is I have 3 short blocks given to me by a friend  - he says that they should all be fine as he only took the heads off to use on other projects - they all seem ok - no ridge in the bores and turn over easily - but how am I to choose which one ?  Cheers 

Which one to use is a bit of a punt. If the heads are off you could throw in new rings (won't need a hone, there's an article floating around that explains why).

I'd also be getting the crank at  the point (TDC and BDC) when the crank moves but the pistons barely do the same - then rocking it "back and forth" rotations as vigorously as possible feeling and listening for any bottom end knock. It's not an iron clad method but it's better than nothing and will show up any seriously bad knock.

Cheers

Bennie

Pull them all down and make decisions then. So many variables no one can advise

Yes it is a bit of a gamble - I didn't really want to pull them to pieces - I will do what el freddo suggested and maybe take the sumps off and choose the one that looks the cleanest as well - I do have a good pair of heads from a "recon" motor (that has had the camshaft gear come loose) and more than enough bits and pieces to make a complete motor - wish me luck !!

Well - I chose one at random and pulled the sump off -  inside is very clean with a golden sheen - lifters are nice and firm in their bores - the strainer on the oil pickup is clean - there is no discernible slop in the crankshaft - bores seem good with no ridge  - there is quite a bit of erosion where the waterpump impeller sits though - I am still a bit suspicious though as to why this short block would have the heads removed and been left to sit - Cheers

Put each piston on btc and measure the bores with an internal micrometer. Smallest bores with least out of round will tell you which block has the least miles on it or best looked after engine when in use.

If it's the one with the pitting you could use an epoxy metal like Devcon to fill the pits then file the face back smooth. That stuff is impervious to water, oil, heat etc etc.

I'd also re-ring the pistons of your chosen block while you can. No need to pull down the block for that, gudgeon pin circlips are accessible through bungs on the side of the cylinders. Pull the clips, pull the pins, pull pistons out the top of the block.

Cheers, Knuck.

Well - I have almost got the motor ready to install - a couple of things that are a bit odd - the pushrods I am using come from the motor that was overheated (EA81) - they have two knurled lines on them which the Subaru Workshop manual say come from an EA71 ?? the rocker arm adjustment seems ok although it is near the end of the threads (winding in) and comparing this with another motor I have the threads are about half way - according to the manual the EA71 pushrods are approx. 10mm shorter than the EA81- the other thing was the O-ring that sits between the flywheel and crankshaft is different (the new motor was from an automatic) so I fitted a manual flywheel and left out the O-ring --- Cheers

Well I got the motor installed - and started it up - seemed to be running fine - idled even  - I could hear a bubbling sound and there was half a bucket of coolant on the floor at the back of the car - turns out to be a crack in one of the heads inside the exhaust port - didn't see it before installation - anyway I do have another head but of course I need another gasket - can anybody recommend a good source (in Australia) to get one - or three - they seem to be getting a bit scarce - Cheers

Dealers should have them

I only use genuine where possible. Otherwise any decent store would be able to get felpro gaskets which should do the job. 

Tough luck on the head crack :/ 

Cheers 

Bennie