Hello all

got a new belt and water pump for next change in my 2004 90K miles forester, but stupid me, no idler wheels.

Is there anyone selling a reasonably priced kit of just the idlers?

I seem to find only full kits with tensioner mechanism too (like this one https://www.autoparti.it/ruville/7742820 )

In 14 years of EJ20 1st and 2nd gen Leg ownership never changed the tensioner mech itself, cant see the reason why my (new to me) SG forester would be different even if the tensioner mechanism is different.
tnxs!

Edited November 24, 20187 yr by turboguzzi

you change the tensioner for the same reason you change the rest of the idler pulleys and water pump. The bearings may fail before the next belt change it due. Cheap insurance (if you use quality parts) against failure. it may be cheaper to get a kit with all the items you want, than to add single parts and return what you already have. 

 

 

Edited November 24, 20187 yr by whynot

PartsGeek can help,and they have cheaper all the way up in quality.

Just done my 2000 outback. Kit with belt,hydraulic tensioner,idlers,water pump was 

$226:00 and a 105000 mile guarantee!!

They also have kits with just what you need but I'd do like why not suggested.

Ship your parts back and get a complete all in one .

Sorry whynot. Didn't notice my auto spell thing printed your handle how it wanted too,not the way I printed it. Sorry

tnxs guys

parts geek kit looks similar to the one in my link, also in price

BTW, i completely agree that the idler on the tensioner should be changed too,

but in the tensioner itself, there are no bearing to speak off or parts that wear

 

as you can see here, for the EJ20 gen1 leg motor you can get just the idlers, including the one that sits on the tensioner 

no tensioner mechanism forced down your throat

https://www.autoparti.it/ina/2384801

there are oil seals in the tensioner. Some argue that a little oil on top of (new style) tensioners is normal.

 

I replaced mine. It had oil on top. Plus, I have more distrust of greases and polymers/seals/rubber than some folks due to intense heat in my part of the country.

 

if you decide to re-use the tensioner, it should be compressed VERY slowly to preserve the seal. over several minutes is usually recommended.

 

On 11/24/2018 at 8:49 AM, turboguzzi said:

In 14 years of EJ20 1st and 2nd gen Leg ownership never changed the tensioner mech itself, cant see the reason why my (new to me) SG forester would be different even if the tensioner mechanism is different.

Buy the pulleys from Subaru or AISIN.  Aftermarkets have higher failure rates, not what you want on an interference engine of the 2004 forester. 
The tensioner pulley is the least likely part to fail, that's the only part of the timing system I haven't seen fail.  

If you buy aftermarket I wouldn't use any included bolts, use the OEM bolts original to the car.  I've seen aftermarket bolts shear off - maybe it was an installation issue (i didn't do them, but rather bought them with broken bolt/thrown belt/bent valves this way), but it's only been aftermarket "new" bolts that i've seen. 

The new style tensioner (in your Forester) is less reliable than the old style tensioners (in your EJ20's), the tensioning mechanism gets weak and the tensioner will KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK loudly.  Compressed slowly and reused properly this probably is far less of an issue, but the seals on the tensioning piston commonly leak and it's more common on the new style tensioners than the old that you're used to with the EJ20. 

 years ago it wasn't uncommon for people who knew this to swap newer Subaru's to the old style tensioner.  Due to age and aftermarket questionable quality it's not as conducive as it once was. 

 

tnxs ido

always compressed the tensioner slowly, even over 15-20 minutes, so that's not an issue, didnt know about the tensioner swap....

ciao from italy

 

TG

Edited November 29, 20187 yr by turboguzzi

ok, had a deeper check and turns out that ruville (link in my first post) is a german company that belongs to the schaeffler concern of INA and FAG bearings. They claim to be "made in germany",  so that's kinda ensuring. Will tell you once i get it if there's a "made in china" stamping in the small print

3 hours ago, turboguzzi said:

ok, had a deeper check and turns out that ruville (link in my first post) is a german company that belongs to the schaeffler concern of INA and FAG bearings. They claim to be "made in germany",  so that's kinda ensuring. Will tell you once i get it if there's a "made in china" stamping in the small print 

A German company can source Chinese parts

I’ve ordered the same part from the same company and gotten a different manufacturer/part. I’ve gotten OEM parts then next time its not. I’ve had it happen with Beck Arnley multiple times. 

Anyway - take note that what you get this time doesn’t ensure consistency or that it will be next the same next time.