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any steering play? balljoints? lift a wheel off the ground and see if it has any play, check to see if they are the original balljoints.

pictures would help alot as Moosens has stated, how much seat wear, seatbelt, and the rubber on the pedals,

original clutch cable? originals seem to always go out around that mileage if it is truly at 75,000mi.

alittle harder to tell with this one but check the brake pads and see if they're still the original with the fuji heavy industries stamped logo, but that's not a guarantee either.


a 75,000 mile brat is very possible since mine is only at 68,500miles right now.

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  • 9 months later...
On 5/20/2019 at 10:05 PM, I love cars said:


Hey y’all!! Sorry life got busy so I had to put BRAT stuff on the shelf well I moved, settled in etc

i’m back and ready to start the process and I’ve spent some time tinkering and have some new knowledge 

(recap) I bought three for 1500, and plan on making the the best one (body wise) the nicest (pics below)
The previous owner Put time into this one for his daughter in High School, (hence the funny color) she drove it and later it went to the son who is my age, he seized the engine on day because he didn’t check the oil.

I have the engine ready to come out and have the second brat with a running (barely) engine, see follow up.

the tail gate is collapsed cause their second youngest ran into it  4wheeler.....

I have an original Subaru bed cover and roll bar, both on it 

all around the car is in excellent condition and really just needs the swap and maybe grease axle, cv joint, and maybe lathing the brakes





Edited by I love cars
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Car number 2 (living corpse)

I chose this name cause it has troubles with just about everything......but still runs/drives!

it’s been sitting for a good couple years and the mice have done a number to the wiring harness in the dash, but all the lights on the out side work (except the front right low)

heaven knows what going on with the transmission! I drove it around a little bit and third and fourth work every once in a while....

brakes...... worthless. If you push the pedal it locks the front right caliper.... other then that none at all

motor only fires on three pistons at low and upper-to high rpms, middle seems to have her firing on all four

however I need to put it in the nice one, and have an idea....... 

Could I get away with ordering a complete engine gasket set and us the good parts from my seized motor?

plz help out, also should I consider buying a carburetor rebuild kit? Or try cleaning it out? Don’t have the money for a Holland or Weber...... the carb works kinda, but could also be my fuel pump?

also this is my first rodeo so any advice, feedback etc is much appreciated!




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Your first rodeo ?! Did I miss something ? 

You can find gasket sets and carb kits. 

Whichever pedal box you chose to install be sure to inspect it well and certainly read the stories about those wearing a crack in the side and causing clutch cable issues. Reinforce it before you install if at all possible.

Lately I see a good amount of used parts. Not just mine. I see guys cleaning garages out etc. Some good offers out there. 

Heater box will be nasty and difficult to make great again , but not impossible. Maybe before splitting one open just select the cleanest of the three and work with that one as is. Tough to tell your heater core without seeing it. Those can still be found too. Same for the cock (spigot). 


Great project. Enjoy !

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On 5/21/2019 at 12:05 AM, I love cars said:

is the a way to tell if it has hit 100,000?

Just a thought.

Check with DMV. Don't know how it works where you live, but here in Pa. we always have to write the current mileage of the vehicle on the vehicle registration for the license plates. They might have a record of the VIN and reported mileage over the years.

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In this case I don’t see an under hundred K interior in any of the pictures. Indicators I type about often would be the Caution decal on the drivers door among others. 

But I can see the first red Brat you have in the building is the sweetie. Maybe it is original mileage and just a bit more weathered. 

But no worries. There’s a good amount of used parts showing up lately. I just sold an uncracked dashboard. Others have posted (boasted) of theirs so you have a shot at one. Or there’s covers. 

Have fun and enjoy the process. 


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  • 1 year later...

Hey ALL!! SORRY IT'S BEEN SUCH A LONG TIME. I decided to take my ea-71 (?) To a shop to get built after I pulled them. I am currently trying to get the nicer one put together. I am a little lost on how to mount the engine to the transmission, it seems really close but for some reason something's holding it out. I wanted to pull from your expertise and knowledge on the difference between an EA 71 and an EA-71s. And I'm wondering if they should Mount up the same? I've learned that there is a split design in the 78 ea-71s, the difference (visibly anyway) being the one has water pump mounted to the block with a single small port above and the older one being mounted and completely going into the block. The other difference I found is in the bearings for the crankshaft. On the older EA 71 the alignment fins are opposed whereas on the newer split design they are together when assembled... So if anyone can tell me the difference between the ea-71 and 71 s, much appreciated and I would love some tips on how to mount my engine to my transmission

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  • 1 month later...

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