EA81 indicator circuit voltage loss B.R.A.T.

[Steptoe]

Been sorting LED light issue on my trailer.

Problem is the indicator orange operate but at such a dim light level they are almost impossible to see in daylight.

All lights of ute are fine and dandy, so too the stop n tail of trailer

I had to install a diode for stop tail circuit to fix problem occuring likely due to pos switching of one circuit, neg switching of other when it comes to stop n tail circuits and only one earth wire in light fitting for three functions. Stop tails work fine since

No ballast resistors needed or in use

I have found rear indicators and trailer plug only have 8.7 V

In case dmm display is too slow for the blink I bridged flasher can to stop the blink - still 8.76V

Fuse panel on the blink circuit has12 volts

Drops to 10 7 at battery input of flash can

Fortunately the 8 volts is enough to excite a relay coil so gonna run new 12 v wire from....well I was gonna say up front from fuse panel but just remembered a life saver....

I have no use for the fuel pump power plug I found in the tray cavity behind front driver side cabin!

It should have 12 v IGN in supply to power up a relay for each side, will contain an Earth as well

Glad I thought of this before any contortion issues working under dash

I did bench test to see trailer plug work a relay from trailer plug to a relay with bike battery to save on wire rigging and it worked

Curious if others only got low 8 v at trailer plug on EA81/ BRATs/ Brumby/ MV1800

If you can add input/ findings suggestions appreciated

[FerGloyale]

I'm having a hard time understanding this post I must say.

2 things stand out.

1)  Only the headlights themselves are Negative switched.  

All of the lights you are talking about here, turn, markers and brake lights, are switched on Positive side and the single ground wire to the bulb sockets is normal.  Stop lights and tail lights are separate circuits.  If they are interfering with each other it's likely a bulb or socket issue at one of the 2 tailights.  I've seen single filament bulbs stuffed where there should be  double cause stuff like this.  Check both fixture's bulbs and sockets.

2) For standard 4 wire trailer setup, you need a converter box, (basically 2 diodes) to make the separate side turn signals, also operate the Brake lights of the trailer.  The best converter boxes are also a relay of sorts, using a separate, fused, heavy gauge wire from Battery + to supply the trailer's voltage, rather than loading the trailer lights onto the existing lighting circuits.  That usually helps trailer lights be nice and bright, and prevents overloading the vehicles 10 or 15 amp fuses.....especially if the trailer is very long, with lot's of lights, or has very skinny wires, poor grounds, corroded housings etc.....

Here is the cheapo kind, that's just a pass through to bridge trailer brakes/turns into single ciruit.https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74209-Trailer-Converter/dp/B0008G1NNY

And here's a good type, with seperate 12v+ to power trailer, and uses vehicles lighting cicuits just as "triggers" for the trailer lighting through this box.https://www.amazon.com/59146-Powered-2-Wire-Taillight-Converter/dp/B00537GKBI/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=converter&qid=1561645912&s=automotive&sr=1-12

Unless somehow your trailer has separate amber turns as well.  then the wiring would be direct from the vehicle, but you'd need 5 wires for that type of setup.  Relays would also be good there for reasons I mentioned above about length of circuit and additional bulbs adding resistance.

[Steptoe]

Cultural differences showing up here.

Thanks FerG for the fine detail

Here in Oz we have seen US import cars that flash the brake light as an indicator for turning, so I know what you mean.

Here in Oz for as long as I can recall we have had a British influence and we have had separate orange turn indicator lens on cars made for our market, then in later years, clear or opaque lens with orange bulb or LED. Trailers also use same orange turn indicators

Look at eBay with an .au added to address line and search trailer lights.

You are indeed alert and not taking my BS on the earth switching of rear lights. Light bulb moment when of course all tail lights, brake and indicators of EA have a black earth wire on bulb housings.So I jumped the gun on that reasoning. Better do an edit so no one gets a bum steer

OK. The LED trailer light assy has one earth wire for stop,tail and indicator and at one function i can't recall they could not all function nicely together and a diode inline insurer stop or tail resolved the issue.

Thanks for the interesting links, I will check them soon

Here we used to have a fairly simple round plug with 7? Pins available in some states. Others used a flat 7 pin plug, so someone made a fortune out of producing round to flat and flat to round adapter's

The round pin has pretty much lost out to the flat type thankfully, but took some time !

All the incandescent bulbs in use are clean and working nicely

The box you mention that uses a dedicated power source for trailers is a good idea. Interesting to know of and possibly available here but never seen ....likely out of sight if ever fitted anyway.

I will just rig up a pair of relays with a dedicated power supply and fit it inline to the trailer cord just forward of ute rear light assembly,

thanks for your massive input

[el_freddo]

7 pin trailer plugs are alive and well @Steptoe! I prefer them over the flat type. Call me old fashioned, I just like them better mainly because that’s what I grew up with. 

My trailer plug on both the Brumby and L series are wired into the factory loom. No diodes or anything like that and they both work sweet.

Cheers 

Bennie

[Steptoe]

I grew up with the round, die cast ones as well but prefer the flat now. So, Bennie, LED lights on trailer?

I had this problem with B2 as well as B3. I don't recall this problem on my RX but it hardly even knew when it had a trailer hooked up

Flat plugs are easier to identify each pin. If anyone has time to measure voltage on either a tow plug or at indicator bulbs I am curious

[el_freddo]

I had cheap LED lights on my rear tyre carrier’s swing arms, no issues. 

Trailer is traditional globes. 

Dad’s car trailer has LEDs and no issues on the L series, can double check this in the next couple of weeks if you wish. 

There shouldn’t be any difference in running the LED trailer lights, it doesn’t matter what is switched, so long as you have the pos and neg the right way around for the diodes to work. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Steptoe]

Bloody corrupting this thread with all this L series talk and theme is Voltage loss. So a reading from Sunnie and any other MY EA81 you have is welcome

I had  no issue with my first LEDs I got from a Kmart clearance bin. Individual circular lights for each brake/tail and orange indicator, so had their own earth wire- no dramas! But being early and cheap and nasty , they did not have enough sunblock on them.

Found a plug to use on unused fuel pump power/earth connector to flog power from for the relay set , run along under tray to the RHS cavity

Will add diodes so the rest of the indicator circuit stays at 8 Volts ( must be why I never have to replace bulbs )

I keep my trailer plug and cord behind the 2 screw chassis rail end plate for neatness. Gonna fit a pin switch so when towbar in use plate is removed, pin switch earthing activated for relays - just to prevent premature excitement for their coils every time an indicator blinks sans trailer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Steptoe]

Working like a charm with my little mess of wiring and relays. Going to use our factory relays in their rubber mounts mounted on the inside of the square panel. I left the diodes out for a learning experience

The diodes were not needed to stop exciting the coils when trailer not connected ONLY for the hazard light circuit.

But with engine running to power up my unused fuel pump circuit now used for powering up LEDs and then to use indicators by stalk, the relays still clicked despite earth cut, until the diodes went in

installed my Earth disconnect switch for the relays to not even click when not required

With Earth disconnected I could hear a soft click inside , as opposed to operational click. One diode at a time from indicator loom resolved this. Also helped to hook up diodes correct orientation

 

 

Edited July 4, 2019 by Steptoe

[Steptoe]

This is my cord tidy 

The rubber booted door switch provides the Earth for relays to boost the trailer volts up to Voltage for trailer LEDs , only while cover is removed, cord is out.

It would have been easier to fit old bulb style lights to the trailer