Hi all, newbie here so sorry if this has been covered. Purchased a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback for my son- it is in good shape and has been serviced regularly by the Subaru dealer. Radiator cracked so purchased a new one, replaced cap, and thermostat at the same time. Took a while to get all the air out of the system. The only issue we are still having is it runs at normal temp but will spike to the hot mark when you are going slow (we have a long drive up the side of a mountain with lots of 180 degree switchbacks). If you stop for a moment and run the heater, the temp will drop back to normal. I am wondering if one of the fans is not coming on as it should. Any tips or help is appreciated

How would we know? Watch the fans. Are they coming on? I am squinting real hard but I just can't make out if the fan is running through the internet. 

GD

1. Did the fans get plugged back in?
2. Do the fans come on when you turn on the AC?

you could use the green 'diagnostic' connectors under the dash - when connected, various relays and fans should cycle on/off.

 

at least, they do on newer soobs - I guess they will on a 97......

UPDATE- so I did see both fans run once I cut the A/C on- the smaller one was continuous but the larger one ran intermittently. I did see on here that when filling the radiator, to remove the top hose and fill from there, then fill radiator- I pulled the top hose and put about 1/4 gallon in, then another 1/4 into the radiator. I am wondering if the heating issue may have been that I didn't get all the air out of the system.

I do see where the 2.5 has headgasket issues- I do not see any vapor in the exhaust nor bubbles in the radiator, the oil is clean but the car does have 186K on it and I do not see a service ticket for headgasket repair. How worried do I need to be about this immediately? I have no problem pulling the motor and rebuilding it but hoping to wait till winter when its cooler and my son wont need it for a bit. Thx to all!!!

SAFELY try tapping or rapping on the fans - maybe there's an intermittent motor failure?

a rare failure could be the engine temp sensor. If bad, it might cause the ECU to think the engine is always cold. But I'd expect very poor running as the ECU would be 'choking' the car with excess fuel.

it does seem like there was a significant gas 'bubble' in the block.

get working OEM rad cap, and OEM thermostat,  etc

in the past, .it has been recommended to get the nose of the car up, sloped driveway or on ramps....run the car until the fans come on and it's at operating temp - make sure there is coolant in the overflow - ,rev the car a coupla times,  - let the car cool. A little coolant will probably be pulled from the overflow. When cool, check the radiator level and coolant level.Then drive the car and monitor the levels and the temp gauge.  Until you have confidence in the system, always check coolant level in the rad. 

 

Edited July 2, 20196 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

Thanks everyone- I feel like between having a bubble in the block and a bit of "dad"ism happening, it is all good now- however, the AT OIL TEMP light stays on for a heartbeat when you start the car now- it had not done that prior to the radiator blowing out (side tank was brittle and crumbly- why we had to replace it)- 

Will a standard code reader work on this year? My buddy has one he said I can use tomorrow.

AT codes cannot be read with a scanner. In any case as long as the light goes out it doesn't have any. 

GD

thanks GD- to be Capt Obvious- I am new to Japanese cars- my area is more like old Chris Craft and Century inboards....those, I know- this soobie-not so much