Hi All- have the motor out of our 1997 Legacy Outback to replace head gaskets, timing belt, water pump etc. The transmission has a leak that I think is coming from the seal behind the torque converter. I started to pull the torque converter out but there was a shaft that was coming out with it so I stopped and reseated the converter. Can some one tell me how to remove the TQ so I can install the new seal? TIA

that extension tube just comes out with the TC.  It's the drive for the Pump in the trans.

There is a small clip that holds it in place to the TC.  Check that for proper engagement before reinstall, they can be damaged and make it hard to get the TC back in.

There is also a hard plastic type seal at the end of the tube, make sure it doesn't get tugged or knicked going in and out.

But basically just pull it out, and carefully put it back in.

If the central drive shaft pulls out of the trans with it, that also just pops back into place.  But it should stay in the trans.  replace the O-ring on it's tip if you have delayed engagement of drive.

make sure the TC gets fully re-inserted and do not use the bolts to force it the last 1/4"

thanks guys- it seems straight forward- I did mark both the converter and bellhousing with a reference mark. I ordered a factory front seal- figured why not while it is apart...

not sure on a 97, but some older soobs have a notoriously leaky 'air-oil separator' plate on the rear of the block. Check for that - if it's plastic, or seeping, it needs attention.

Edited July 28, 20196 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

Make absolutely sure it’s fully seated.  1/4”  matters  no seat and the oil pump cracks inside the trans  

The flex plate and torque converter should not touch when you install the engine. This fact makes it easy to check before installing.  Measure distance from torque converter to trans housing and flex plate to engine housing and make sure the numbers ensure they won’t touch. The bolts draw them together and close the gap once it’s installed. 

Did you consider an EJ22 swap over the head work?

I looked around for an E22 and didnt find one loca the ones on line were out of our budget plus shipping. The TQ is reseated and its fairly easy to tell where it goes given the starter interface so thats good- 

I have ONE cam saddle bolt being a pain- it doesnt want to come out- the head is rounded now so guess I will have some quality time with a small drill and extractor tomorrow. 

I was very amazed at how spotlessly clean this motor was- with 189k on it- there was zero sludge in the pan or heads- the cylinders even still show some crosshatching on the walls...

 

 

nice. Good eye on the TC, that’s a common painful error  

“cam saddle” - is that the cam support under the valve covers? Doesn’t matter probably - a left handed drill bit will back the bolt right out, no extractor needed.  I’ve even drilled in reverse with a normal right handed bit.

At 200,000 all Subaru’s show original crosshatching unless terribly neglected. I only work on Subaru’s and assume it’s normal for others too, is that weird or different from other cars?

most of the engines  I have done were old vintage mahogany boats- most used non detergent 30 wt oil- all of them are sludged up and the cylinders look like the Sahara and Gobi desert has a sand fight in them LOL so it is nice to see a clean motor in good shape....

 

1 hour ago, mrwoodboat said:

most of the engines  I have done were old vintage mahogany boats- most used non detergent 30 wt oil- all of them are sludged up and the cylinders look like the Sahara and Gobi desert has a sand fight in them LOL so it is nice to see a clean motor in good shape....

 

nice!  wow.  

On 7/29/2019 at 8:50 PM, idosubaru said:

nice!  wow.  

So idosubaru- quick question if you dont mind- heads are clean, surfaces are decked, block and pistons are clean, basically ready to put back together. I purchased the ITM (Asin) gasket set and the head gaskets are MLS but there is not an indicator to direct which aide goes up. One side of the HG is plain, the other side has a red thin strip of some sort of silicone around the outer perimeter. Which way to I install? Thanks

Id get Subaru gaskets and not use those. 

But I realize that’s easy to say when it’s not mine.  Surely it goes block side but I’d wait for someone else to verify as I use OEM and don’t see that.  

It’s side-specific with no indicator how it’s installed?  Nice!

 

36 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

Id get Subaru gaskets and not use those. 

But I realize that’s easy to say when it’s not mine.  Surely it goes block side but I’d wait for someone else to verify as I use OEM and don’t see that.  

It’s side-specific with no indicator how it’s installed?  Nice!

 

I got the impression from this forum and the other forum, that the ASIN gaskets were the improved gaskets over OEM- according to that opinion, there was an imp[rovement in the design and manufacturing that was better than the OEM gaskets.

Personally I feel that the HG issue has been around long enough that the OEM should have reengineered the head, block or gasket to help mitigate the issue. Seems to be the only weak spot in from my opinion, what looks to be a well designed engine.

It may not matter, I’m not familiar with AISIN gaskets so my opinion is limited.

AISIN is recommended for timing belt kits and water pumps, ive never seen AISIN significantly talked about for head gaskets?

Also, AISIN belt kits are typicality recommended for the newer 2000+ engines.  

General Disorder and others favor OEM headgaskets over anything else and a few others get good results with Fel Pro.  Those guys are seeing dozens a year and can see trends we don’t so I favor their recommendations.