Hey guys. got everything apart and got the bearing pressed in at a shop. The question is how to get the shaft stub pulled back on to the axle. I followed this guide and was able to get the passenger side one done using the hammer method shown in the tutorial here:

I tried to do it the same  way and could not get that sucker to work.

I guess I am wondering if there is a tool that I could use to make it easier. My plan at this point is to try the hammer method again but with a larger washer under the castle bolt and a helper to line up the shaft by moving it around while I pull.

Any other tips? Should I partially put the bolts in? Any ideas or tips?

Here is a picture of the shaft:

Sorry the picture is on there twice, LOL

Thanks!

kmpdx

Remove the cotter pin and take the stub axle off the CV shaft. 

Go to a bench or a big solid block of wood and hit the axle from behind - with another’s block of wood between the stub axle and the BFH.

Or use the threads of the shaft to act like a hydraulic press to pull the stub axle through the hub. You’ll need a way to transmit the force from the nut to the hub - something to go between theses that you can make larger as you run out of thread on the stub axle. 

Personally, I remove the CV shaft and do the bearings with the swing axle on the vehicle.

Cheers 

Bennie

So I am not sure exactly what vehicle this is on as it doesn't state, but if this is an older gen 4wd like my loyale, the axle shaft is splined on the back side and connects to the cv axle via rollpin. Looking at your pictures, im guessing the bearing has been pressed into the hub but the axle wasn't pressed into the bearing. I've replaced both of my rears, and always press the bearing onto the shaft. Then I put the shaft/bearing assembly into the hub (typically you can tap it with a rubber mallet and the entire bearing/shaft assembly will go in fairly easily.) Tighten the locknut with inner seal down on the back, snug the spindle nut finger tight, return the hub assembly into the vehicle, and once everything is back together and the vehicle is lowered, torque the spindle nut to spec. I'm sure you could try hammering the axle into the bearing as you stated, but you run the risk of damaging the new bearing with the force needed to press the bearing onto the axle.

If you take a small punch and knock the roll pin out to disconnect the cv from the shaft, it makes it alot easier working with that little booger. Just be sure you keep the hole marked which side goes with which. If you line the axle up on the opposite hole of the shaft, it is just a fraction off inside and the roll pin won't go back in. Happy wrenching.

Thanks guys! Well I wish I had known about the roll pin. I will try to take it out and get the shaft into the bearing. If it's messed up I will just have to redo it with the bearings on the shaft.

I will follow up and let you know how it went in a couple of days. 

Thanks!

kmpdx

Glad to help. I would just be sure to lightly coat the shaft with grease before trying to get it to go into the bearing and be sure it seats completely. Hopefully it won't give you too much trouble. 

Thanks. If it turns out the bearing is messed up at least by now I am experienced if further repair is needed!

kmpdx

The bearing will be fine. They’re tough buggers! 

What you’ll find is that the stub axle is trying to go in on an angle rather than straight in. 

Cheers 

Bennie

I use different spacers under the big nut to pull them in.  Stack of big washers,  and or the spacer from the front wheel bearing knuckle work.

Hey guys,

Well, I got the shaft into the bearing. Unfortunately, I bent the roll pin trying to get it back in. I need another pin. Does anybody have a part number or can advise me where I might find one? 

Thanks!

kmpdx

1 hour ago, kmpdx said:

Hey guys,

Well, I got the shaft into the bearing. Unfortunately, I bent the roll pin trying to get it back in. I need another pin. Does anybody have a part number or can advise me where I might find one? 

Thanks!

kmpdx

I have a set of generic clip hardware I got from autozone(has clevis pins, snap rings, roll pins, etc.) and the larger roll pin is perfect for these axles. I destroyed mine getting it out last time and replaced it with no problem. I will try and get you the info on the assortment as soon as I step out to my shop. 

What about these?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/subaru-gl-cv-joint-roll-pin

I was worried that somehow they would not be right but I can see them working...

Thanks!

That should work perfectly. The roll pins are the same on multiple models. I may have to get a few of those to have around myself. Lol.

Here is the OEM part # in case you have any issues or prefer to stick with original parts.

Awesome. I just bought 2. How did you search those? I could not find them.

Thanks!

kmpdx

Google search pulled up an oem site. Plugged in vehicle info and the correct part popped up. Since they are still available, I went ahead and ordered a few to have myself. It's the smallest things that are hard to find for these gems.

All Subaru cotter pin/roll pins are the same  

Like Lego remember? 

Cheers 

Bennie

Hey guys! Got the pin in and the bearing and everything back together. Guess what? Bearing is fixed! The Loyale is ready to roll again. Really appreciate the help and if you see a gray Loyale around Portland with silver hood and liftgate, that's me!

Thanks!

kmpdx