scoobydube Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Forget my comment about whether it is a genuine Subaru service manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 8 hours ago, scoobydube said: The distributor that you have in your photos, appears to be for an 85-86 turbo GL10 because it has 4 pins to attach the wires. It should say 22100AA221 on the body of the distributor. In my experience, all distributor extraction and reinstalling, should be done with the flywheel tick mark indicator, centered on the middle of the three ticks on the flywheel. The photo of your distributor does not appear to have the flywheel set in that position so it is not easy to compare the rotor position with anything else. However, with the 12 o'clock position being towards the rear of the car, you can see on your distributor, the top of a screw at the 5 o'clock position. If you car is a turbo, then the rotor should point almost exactly toward the 5 o'clock screw head, when the the distributor is installed AND with the distributor base screws that ultimately adjust the timing, centered in the wear marks at the base attachment of the distributor. Which the base screws appear to be set in the wear marks in your photo. I have used 86 XT turbo distributors in my GL10. It is exactly the same as in the GL10 turbo wagon. Yep, the photo of installed dizzy shown at 20° is of EA82T Series One flapper afm for both 85&86 models years. Part number for Australian GLTA and RX is 22100AA063 with the four pin module and the boost retard/ vacuum advance diaphragm cannister. Photos are of how I worked out to set things up and took photos for memory jog or share. I like your method, taking advantage of the " no valve spring tension spot" I think it is so as not for them to cause engine to rotate things out of place while delicate procedure in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, scoobydube said: This photo appears to be for an 87 model year. It does not appear to be a Subaru service manual. Appearances can be deceptive It is a complete set of 85&86 manuals in two volumes and if I put them randomly on the shelves of local dealers library hidden in the back of the store room - you would be hard pressed to find them quickly ! it is demonstrating some markets got different components, at different times Edited June 19, 2020 by Step-a-toe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 So when Cycle Guy comes back with a photo of his with pointer at middle of the three soldiers lll , rotor about 5 o'clock, position..... Number one lead on cap should be closest to firewall yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 9 hours ago, scoobydube said: This photo appears to be for an 87 model year. It does not appear to be a Subaru service manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydube Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 2 hours ago, Step-a-toe said: So when Cycle Guy comes back with a photo of his with pointer at middle of the three soldiers lll , rotor about 5 o'clock, position..... Number one lead on cap should be closest to firewall yeah? You are correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydube Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 On 6/16/2020 at 8:41 PM, Step-a-toe said: Different dizzy - flapper style turbo Hitachi at 20° Looks about half between 12 and 1 When same dizzy as yours fitted, set at 20° BTDC was definitely closer to 2 position In this photo, the timing indicator is pointing at the flywheel BTDC marks, not the 3 tick marks that are used for setting both the timing belt pulleys and installing the distributor. So the rotor position shown is completely irrelevant in a discussion based on the 3 tick marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydube Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 2 hours ago, Step-a-toe said: You are correct in that the Nippondenso distributor was used in the 86 XT MPFI. There is a long list of electrical issues with my GL10, that can keep it from running properly and sends them to the junk yard. They are A. coil goes bad B. the hot wire coming off the back of the alternator gets hard, and eventually breaks but makes the engine run poorly in the process before it breaks. C. the engine ground wire gets hot, get hard, and looses it's ability to conduct electricity efficiently, resulting in very poor engine performance as in the engine won't run well with the headlights on. This starts at around 150,000 miles. D. the wire that comes off the bottom of the positive battery terminal connector and leads to the fusible link box, gets hot, gets hard and loses its ability to conduct electricity. E. the gismo that attaches to the coil with a single wire and is also attached to the body at the coil mounting plate, that cuts down static on the radio, can go out completely and the engine will not start. F. the Hitachi distributors do not last long enough and may cause the engine to run rough before they go out completely. Or they may just go out all of a sudden. G. the battery terminals can get corroded. H. the distributor cap can crack for no apparently reason. I. the terminals inside of the distributor cap get corroded and cause poor performance. J. the spark plug wires get rusty and/or can have a total failure at the connector at the spark plug. K. the spark plugs can go out separately and they all should be replaced at no more than 25,000 miles. L. the timing belt on one sides can jump a tooth on the timing belt pulley. This is caused by the tension pulleys not be adjusted properly. M. the timing belts can break Obviously, every single one of the above problems happened to my GL10 Turbo and I found the cause. Which is why it now has 476,000 miles and runs better than the day it came off the dealers lot, because I installed a larger diameter exhaust system, updated cylinder head gaskets, exhaust cross pipe with the rattle flashing removed, a larger diameter exhaust cross pipe at the turbo and an LSD rear differential. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, scoobydube said: In this photo, the timing indicator is pointing at the flywheel BTDC marks, not the 3 tick marks that are used for setting both the timing belt pulleys and installing the distributor. So the rotor position shown is completely irrelevant in a discussion based on the 3 tick marks. Correct! I put this together for myself setting at the turbo timing of 20 with notes on position of rotor button and timing belt on cam cogs, dizzy components for successful start up. I have shared before with good results for S1 turbo based on timing marks not belt install marks. I like and respect your method described and plan to look at it next dizzy fit- you may have something J have never heard of before. But this isn't getting Cycle Guys query sorted, giving him a few perspectives. I am also after the best service from my EA82T so wondering what dizzy you rely on and what size exhaust you increased crossover pipe size to?? Installing dizzy differs from my manual instructions to use #1 TDC Edited June 20, 2020 by Step-a-toe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydube Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 5 hours ago, Step-a-toe said: Correct! I put this together for myself setting at the turbo timing of 20 with notes on position of rotor button and timing belt on cam cogs, dizzy components for successful start up. I have shared before with good results for S1 turbo based on timing marks not belt install marks. I like and respect your method described and plan to look at it next dizzy fit- you may have something J have never heard of before. But this isn't getting Cycle Guys query sorted, giving him a few perspectives. I am also after the best service from my EA82T so wondering what dizzy you rely on and what size exhaust you increased crossover pipe size to?? Installing dizzy differs from my manual instructions to use #1 TDC I have the same 4 pin Hitachi distributor that you show in your photo. I used a 2 1/2" diameter exhaust pipe that starts at the first catalytic converter. The 2nd catalytic converter is gone. It passes DEQ with flying colors, providing it is in tune and the timing belts are adjusted properly. I had 2 used distributors go bad in one week, just last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 (edited) Aha, second cat?? Our market was only the down pipe cat. I also have 2.5" off it down through a hotdog on to a sports muffler that keeps it below 89 dBa. Between the two of us we should be able to resolve Cycle Guys weirdities with his 86 XT NA MPFi with Denso dizzy On the Dizzy's going bad on you , are you running the original coil part number? Edited June 20, 2020 by Step-a-toe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 On 6/20/2020 at 1:32 AM, scoobydube said: Forget my comment about whether it is a genuine Subaru service manual. Wish I saw this before. Proves I am not the only one on the internet to speed read and miss bits. ( thought it was only Bennie ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Cycle Guy Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 Hi guys, Thank you all for your input. Sorry but some things have come up and I haven't had time to work on the Subie lately. I'm hoping to return to it this weekend, and I'll be sure to report back! Tim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 On 6/21/2020 at 9:55 AM, Step-a-toe said: Wish I saw this before. Proves I am not the only one on the internet to speed read and miss bits. ( thought it was only Bennie ) ??? When/what did I do wrong? Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 13 hours ago, el_freddo said: ??? When/what did I do wrong? Bennie Nothing wrong Bennie, just because I know you a little better, I seem to read into things differently to the way a post is going and your very rare almost out of context reply reads as if you missed finer detail. If I may in the future, point out if it occurs again. But, mind you a common one is some poor fella trying to fix his EA and someone else says "EJ it!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 3 hours ago, Step-a-toe said: If I may in the future, point out if it occurs again. But, mind you a common one is some poor fella trying to fix his EA and someone else says "EJ it!!" Yeah sometimes I try to offer something that hasn’t been mentioned. As for the “just EJ it” comment. It has to be said from time to time. With the EJ It’s like I’ve scaled a wall to get to something better, I know how good it is and encourage others who don’t know to have a go. But many balk at the effort required to scale the wall to get to the better stuff... Generally the wall is the wiring. If you can read a diagram and realise there are many wires not needed, and many that are, you’ll be fine in cutting it down. But that’s got nothing to do with EA82 timing... Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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