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Did I Kill My Charcoal Canister??


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17 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Fuel coming out of that hose is not a common symptom. I’ve never heard of it happening and no one has yet mentioned what causes that so I’m assuming they haven’t either. 

Hooking up the wrong hose does it OP tells us :)

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9 hours ago, DaveT said:

Get the engine up to operating temp.
Shut down.

Disconnect the connector.
Connect an ohmmeter to the sensor leads [it has 2 wires].

Watch the ohms.  take note of the hot, and look every 10 minutes or so.   And for a while every so often.  What you want to see is a slow rate of change, not jumping around crazyness.

Somewhere on this forum I have posted some typical numbers and temps.  The exact values are not super critical, but the general slope and smooth change is. 
 

I think some of us need a bank of DMM on dash to read from CTS, O2 and a few other sensors just so we know what things do when all is running fine

I would love a fuel pressure gauge

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8 hours ago, G3.Spiffy said:

Just to clarify, the CTS is the two wire one with the green connector that’s by the thermostat correct?

The one wire one by it is the signal for the temp gauge and the one on the rad is for the fan relay?

Yep  two wires, green connector on my turbo EFI stuff,

Different manifold design but should be in a water jacket, and not too far from single wire temp gauge sender

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4 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

Yep  two wires, green connector on my turbo EFI stuff,

Different manifold design but should be in a water jacket, and not too far from single wire temp gauge sender

 

2 hours ago, DaveT said:

Yes, this is correct. 

Thanks, on to the testing portion

4 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

I think some of us need a bank of DMM on dash to read from CTS, O2 and a few other sensors just so we know what things do when all is running fine

I would love a fuel pressure gauge

 

2 hours ago, DaveT said:

There was a time I was seriously considering building a gauge and simulation panel that would plug in between the ECU and the harness. 

I’d love to have a better view of what’s going on at any given time as well, but the trouble with that for me is where to put aftermarket gauges... I’m too in love with the OEM styling of the car so would need to make a portable one for diagnostic purposes. 

Willingness to modify the car beyond stock is a hard one for me

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17 hours ago, DaveT said:

Get the engine up to operating temp.
Shut down.

Disconnect the connector.
Connect an ohmmeter to the sensor leads [it has 2 wires].

Watch the ohms.  take note of the hot, and look every 10 minutes or so.   And for a while every so often.  What you want to see is a slow rate of change, not jumping around crazyness.

Somewhere on this forum I have posted some typical numbers and temps.  The exact values are not super critical, but the general slope and smooth change is. 
 

So, I just finished my CTS testing. I was unable to find where you previously posted “normal” values for this specific test, but based on the numbers I got I think my CTS is fine. Results are as follows: 

Tested resistance before starting the car, totally cold, just to cross-reference the value with the FSM value for 68°F, which is about the temp it is out in the morning. Value was 2.454 kOhms, which is dead center of the FSM range. 

Ran the car until warm, turned it off and immediately tested resistance: 320.85 Ohms

10min: 0.401 kOhms

20min: 0.498 kOhms

30min: 0.584 kOhms

40min: 0.671 kOhms

50min: 0.762 kOhms

60min: 0.849 kOhms

Probably could’ve stopped here, but wanted to be absolutely sure

70min: 0.934 kOhms

80min: 1.013 kOhms

90min: 1.134 kOhms

Assuming these values are normal (as previously stated, I can’t locate the thread with proper values posted in it), would the next logical thing to test be my fuel pressure under different conditions (upon startup, warm up, driving, asking a lot of the car, going up an incline, etc)?

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Yeah, since the 2 known temps were in range, and the drift while it cools was normal, I'd say it's ok.

I found it, searched for ohms -

CTS Test - put the sensor in a pan with some water, on a stove top.   Use a thermometer and an ohm meter.

It took a while, looking through my FSMs and finding my old notes -
Water temp sensor ohms
14F   7000 - 11500
68F   2000-3000
122F 700-1000

Above are from the FSM.

Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points.
                   measured ohms
temp  1990 used      new dealer unit
77F                                  2390
122F      1154                 1098
185F                                400
190F       454

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Honestly at the age of these electronics and with their inability to deliver real time diagnostic data...... if you really want to run that hot garbage I would just wire up a stand-alone to it. A LINK Monsoon would run that no problem and make diagnostics much easier. Not to mention you can just re-calibrate for any sensor drift issues, etc:

https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4X-MonsoonX-ECU

Also the CTS, etc testing should be done at the ECU connector, not at the sensor. Need to do both but it's what the ECU see's at the other end of the wires that's important. 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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9 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Honestly at the age of these electronics and with their inability to deliver real time diagnostic data...... if you really want to run that hot garbage I would just wire up a stand-alone to it. A LINK Monsoon would run that no problem and make diagnostics much easier. Not to mention you can just re-calibrate for any sensor drift issues, etc:

https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4X-MonsoonX-ECU

Also the CTS, etc testing should be done at the ECU connector, not at the sensor. Need to do both but it's what the ECU see's at the other end of the wires that's important. 

GD

At this point in my build I don’t think that would be practical for me, especially considering I have zero experience in tuning or with stand-alone systems

Once I have a better understanding of those systems I can see how it would be very beneficial, and will keep it in mind for the future!

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