Subaru 2.2 (1994) case bolts

[Biggyniner]

Hi guys, 

I cannot find a case bolt kit for 1994 2.2 (EJ22) Subaru.  I can find them for a 1995 however, would that case bolt kit work?

Thanks!

[ocei77]

When you say case bolts, are you referring to the head bolts or the bolts that secure the two halves together?

AFAIK all the NA 2.2 bolts are the same.

O.

[Biggyniner]

4 hours ago, ocei77 said:

When you say case bolts, are you referring to the head bolts or the bolts that secure the two halves together?

AFAIK all the NA 2.2 bolts are the same.

O.

Sorry should of been more clear, yes the case half bolts.

I found cylinder head bolts, but the kits I keep finding for the case halves say 95+.  The pictures of the bolts do look the same as my 84 2.2...

[idosubaru]

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1994_Legacy-2-L-GRADE--BASE-Sedan/Engine-Crankshaft-Main-Bearing-Cap-Bolt/49286467/800610010.html

Can you reuse the originals? No one that knows what they’re doing on Subaru’s replaces, particularly head bolts.  

Search via your vehicle on a Subaru oem parts site to find bolts like I did above rather than starting with bolts.  You can also cross reference part numbers in the kits you found to check.  Type in the part numbers on those online subaru store and see if jt fits a 1994. 

Edited December 6, 2020 by idosubaru

[Biggyniner]

7 hours ago, idosubaru said:

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1994_Legacy-2-L-GRADE--BASE-Sedan/Engine-Crankshaft-Main-Bearing-Cap-Bolt/49286467/800610010.html

Can you reuse the originals? No one that knows what they’re doing on Subaru’s replaces, particularly head bolts.  

Search via your vehicle on a Subaru oem parts site to find bolts like I did above rather than starting with bolts.  You can also cross reference part numbers in the kits you found to check.  Type in the part numbers on those online subaru store and see if jt fits a 1994. 

I actually have a new set of head bolts.  I did find a kit for that.  I'm in the habit of replacing bolts that are torqued to a significant amount, such as head bolts, especially since these were the factory ones.  I don't want to worry about them stretching or otherwise failing - cheap insurance to me.

Regarding that link you posted, I have some questions.  Bolt #24 is the short case bolts definitely need those, but they do not have a part number.  The other cases bolts look like #3, they label those main bearing cap bolts.  Do those pass-through and act as the bearing cap bolts, as well as case bolts?  (First Subie rebuild, I'm used to rebuilding small block Chevys and Fords..)

Thanks!

PS. Here is the case bolt kit I was referring to that I was curious if it would work on a 94.

Edited December 7, 2020 by Biggyniner

[idosubaru]

I don’t know, I don’t do these enough to memorize parts and since there’s no need to replace them, there’s almost zero baseline for knowing.

Here’s what I did to find the first part number - Look up a set that has the 95+ Subaru part numbers listed (Amazon has some).

Then search each part number on the list in an online Subaru website (Like one I posted a link to).  

Then click “what this fits” or sometime you can select your vehicle after selecting a part to check if it fits.  That’s what I did to find the first one which showed the 95 also works in the 94.

repeat the same process for the other part numbers.

You could put in your vehicle year make model and then search for case bolts  then click “What this fits”   It’ll show all the years it works on - if it also lists 95+ then you know they’re the same  

But the problem with drilling down is that sometimes the bolt is shown with no part number which means it’s part of a different exploded view diagram and you’ll have to go find it under a different section of the engine listing. Can be harder to find. I would use the first way I describe by just plugging in the Amazon (or other) part numbers into a Subaru website.

Basically do what I did to verify the one part number...do it for the rest of them   

If you’re not sure, you could call a dealer and ask for 94 part numbers.  Some of the dealer parts managers are really good.

hundreds of thousands of these have been done for decades.  They aren’t torque to yield or incur problematic stretching. Highly unlikely those aftermarket bolts are higher grade materials and manufacturing than the OEM bolts.

Bolts probably don’t matter, but I’ve seen other people say “bolts are insurance” and end up with blown headgaskets. I don’t think it’s because of the bolts, but maybe a cavalier attitude on bolts might mean a deafness to other advice too.  So sure, replace the bolts, and still proceed with seasoned Subaru advice on the other steps of the process. 

[Biggyniner]

3 hours ago, idosubaru said:

I don’t know, I don’t do these enough to memorize parts and since there’s no need to replace them, there’s almost zero baseline for knowing.

Here’s what I did to find the first part number - Look up a set that has the 95+ Subaru part numbers listed (Amazon has some).

Then search each part number on the list in an online Subaru website (Like one I posted a link to).  

Then click “what this fits” or sometime you can select your vehicle after selecting a part to check if it fits.  That’s what I did to find the first one which showed the 95 also works in the 94.

repeat the same process for the other part numbers.

You could put in your vehicle year make model and then search for case bolts  then click “What this fits”   It’ll show all the years it works on - if it also lists 95+ then you know they’re the same  

But the problem with drilling down is that sometimes the bolt is shown with no part number which means it’s part of a different exploded view diagram and you’ll have to go find it under a different section of the engine listing. Can be harder to find. I would use the first way I describe by just plugging in the Amazon (or other) part numbers into a Subaru website.

Basically do what I did to verify the one part number...do it for the rest of them   

If you’re not sure, you could call a dealer and ask for 94 part numbers.  Some of the dealer parts managers are really good.

hundreds of thousands of these have been done for decades.  They aren’t torque to yield or incur problematic stretching. Highly unlikely those aftermarket bolts are higher grade materials and manufacturing than the OEM bolts.

Bolts probably don’t matter, but I’ve seen other people say “bolts are insurance” and end up with blown headgaskets. I don’t think it’s because of the bolts, but maybe a cavalier attitude on bolts might mean a deafness to other advice too.  So sure, replace the bolts, and still proceed with seasoned Subaru advice on the other steps of the process. 

Wasn't trying to come off as being my way is the right way.  Just the way I always have done engines.  Valid points though on them not being TTY - so they are likely fine..

Appreciate your instructions regarding the search.

[idosubaru]

47 minutes ago, Biggyniner said:

Wasn't trying to come off as being my way is the right way.  Just the way I always have done engines.  Valid points though on them not being TTY - so they are likely fine..

Appreciate your instructions regarding the search.

Nah, you didn’t sound that way at all. bought new bolts, totally makes sense. Just some insight into what I’ve seen happen before. 

And Ive done the same thing before.  I work almost exclusively on Subaru’s and have made the same decisions I would for Subaru’s on Ford/Chevy diagnosis, guessing, torque, and parts, and it didn’t work out.

what was wrong with the engine when you tore it down? Rod bearing?

Edited December 7, 2020 by idosubaru

[Biggyniner]

 

2 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Nah, you didn’t sound that way at all. bought new bolts, totally makes sense. Just some insight into what I’ve seen happen before. 

And Ive done the same thing before.  I work almost exclusively on Subaru’s and have made the same decisions I would for Subaru’s on Ford/Chevy diagnosis, guessing, torque, and parts, and it didn’t work out.

what was wrong with the engine when you tore it down? Rod bearing?

Kind of a dumb reason honestly.  Prior owner had someone do a timing belt job.  They did not torque down the crank/timing gear bolt.  In time, it wallowed away the timing key way and damaged the groove in the crank and timing gear.  So I just about have her apart to replace the crank.  Now I'm trying to figure a way to get the piston wrist pins out without buying the special tool.  Tried a bent coat hanger (with like a 1/4 inch bend), didn't budge...

Edited December 7, 2020 by Biggyniner

[Numbchux]

On an EJ, with it just before or just after TDC, you can pound the wrist pin out from the far side with a long punch or round steel.

And yea, you won't find a "kit", just individual part numbers directly from Subaru. No need to replace them, though.

[idosubaru]

3 hours ago, Biggyniner said:

 

Kind of a dumb reason honestly.  Prior owner had someone do a timing belt job.  They did not torque down the crank/timing gear bolt.  In time, it wallowed away the timing key way and damaged the groove in the crank and timing gear.  So I just about have her apart to replace the crank.  Now I'm trying to figure a way to get the piston wrist pins out without buying the special tool.  Tried a bent coat hanger (with like a 1/4 inch bend), didn't budge...

I've got a tool at home - I could post a picture if you want to try to make a tool at home with a long carriage bolt.  Grind a hook on the end and use a hammer under the head. Want me to send a picture of it?  Or i'd let you borrow it if you're close. 

Classic, yeah that happens fairly often. I've fixed a few of those in like an hour and pocket change for a new sprocket.  File/grind/sand the crank down enough to accept a new crank sprocket, don't install a new key, and install the crank bolt tight as !@(%)*!  File the snout smooth if the crank pulley isn't sitting square.  Use flywheel or flexplate mark for timing belt install.  If it's for someone else - explain to them that option and document it in their glove box for any future work/mechanic. 

Iron crank, iron bolt - it's not gonna strip like aluminum and they never back off. Done that about 5 times 100% success rate. 

[Biggyniner]

6 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

I've got a tool at home - I could post a picture if you want to try to make a tool at home with a long carriage bolt.  Grind a hook on the end and use a hammer under the head. Want me to send a picture of it?  Or i'd let you borrow it if you're close. 

Classic, yeah that happens fairly often. I've fixed a few of those in like an hour and pocket change for a new sprocket.  File/grind/sand the crank down enough to accept a new crank sprocket, don't install a new key, and install the crank bolt tight as !@(%)*!  File the snout smooth if the crank pulley isn't sitting square.  Use flywheel or flexplate mark for timing belt install.  If it's for someone else - explain to them that option and document it in their glove box for any future work/mechanic. 

Iron crank, iron bolt - it's not gonna strip like aluminum and they never back off. Done that about 5 times 100% success rate. 

Yea can you post a pic of that tool?

Thanks!