Hello, 

Ok i have a customers 2012 NA 2.5 forester with the non CVT transmission . 

The car came in stalling and the customer complained of no power and going thru tons of oil. 

I drove it and it seemed like the transmission was slipping: when driving it seemed to ( like they said ) have no power but it also seemed to be revving real high and making all kinds of clanking noises.  

i tried to manually shift it and it still seemed like it was slipping (like a slipping manual trans/clutch) 

checked fluid level and it was OK. Drained the fluid and it smelled real burnt. 

I also checked the compression and got 120 across the board. I dont mess with many of these FB series engines but im guessing that is REAL low. 

I had a line on an identical transmission that was good so i installed that. 

Theres no subaru dealer close to me so i read that Max Life multi vehicle ATF works  so i filled this trans with that and test drove. 

The shifting situation was waaaay better but still if you press down on the pedal it wants to downshift but theres no power from the engine so it just revs trying to get the car going. 

This is how i think the original transmission got hosed. 

Does this sound like a situation that anyone has heard of? 

Any ideas would be appreciated. 

Thanks, 

Craig 

 

 

check timing? maybe off by a tooth. They car run but be down on power.

if it seems like the car hasn't had great carein the past, certainly possible to have more than one issue.

2 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

check timing? maybe off by a tooth. They car run but be down on power.

if it seems like the car hasn't had great carein the past, certainly possible to have more than one issue.

definitely has been driven hard and not taken care of. 

With the high oil consumption and 120 per cylinder i just went to worn rings/ blow by.. this year seems to have that issue.. 

Am i right that the compression should be 180-200?  

yeah, that sounds horrible, but , being across all cylinders makes me wanna say it COULD be slipped crank timing. That is, when the valves are fully closed, the piston is not at TDC.

should be well over 120.  If compression is the same across all cylinders then it’s possible the measuring set up caused the low compression reading, not the engine.  Device is in good condition, not leaking, fitted well, intake all open up, strong power source to turn engine over and not it’s only battery in equally horrid condition?

Leak down test might be better here. 

Timing being screwed is possible if each cylinder is giving the same low readings. 

Edited June 18, 20214 yr by idosubaru