Hey guys, I have a 1983 Subaru GL wd manual transmission and I just had the clutch replaced by a mechanic that was recommended to me by a friend. Well it works/runs normally when in the 4 wheel drive setting, however if I put in in 2wd mode the clutch doesn't engage. When its in the 2wd setting and I put it into gear and start letting out the clutch and revving the engine, it just revs up and doesn't move, like when in neutral. The mechanic doesn't know what the issue is. I know, I probably shouldn't have taken it to him, but a friend recommended it and he said he could do this clutch job. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be or point me into the right direction? Any help is greatly appreciated. 

What was the reason for replacing the clutch originally? What you are describing sounds like a stripped front hub. The clutch will work the same 2 or 4wd. One other possibility is are you actually getting it into 2wd or are you hitting the neutral spot because of misadjustment or binding of the linkage?

3 hours ago, silverhelme said:

What was the reason for replacing the clutch originally? What you are describing sounds like a stripped front hub. The clutch will work the same 2 or 4wd. One other possibility is are you actually getting it into 2wd or are you hitting the neutral spot because of misadjustment or binding of the linkage?

Thank you for the reply. I had the clutch replaced because it went out. One day I tried to drive the car and the clutch would not engage and it would make this grinding noise when letting go of the clutch. Pretty weird that the clutch would fail like that as all of my other manual cars when the clutch fails it's a gradual slipping that gets worse over time. Never have I had a clutch fail suddenly like that. However I'm not a mechanic, just a hobbyist that does a bit of work on his own car so when the mechanic said it just needs a clutch I was pretty happy as I feared it could be worse. 

I think I am getting into 2wd... Would there be a way to check for misadjustment/binding of the shift linkage?

I am assuming that you should be able to push the car by hand if the transfer case lever indicates 2wd but is in neutral.

1 hour ago, pksjeep said:

I am assuming that you should be able to push the car by hand if the transfer case lever indicates 2wd but is in neutral.

I did not perform such a test yet to verify if it actually is in neutral. Will do it when I get home from work and report back. Thank you for the suggestion. 

I agree with silverhelme. I'm thinking the grinding noise you heard with the old clutch was the axle slipping in one of the front hubs. Maybe you didn't need a new clutch after all.  Try putting it in gear ( two wheel drive ) and with the  clutch pedal out, have someone look at the front axles to see if one of them is just spinning in the hub. If it's not moving anyway, you could just get out and check for yourself if you don't have someone to check for you. 

The 2WD vs 4WD power routing is done in the transmission, after the clutch. 

The most common won't move in 2WD problem is a stripped hub - due to the axle nut not tight enough.   Theoretically, a failed CV / axle shaft, or a differential problem could also cause similar results, but I don't remember seeing a thread about that.

I agree with silerhelm and DaveT. Shot hub spline, shot CV joint or not properly engaged in 2wd mode. 

All are easy to investigate and relatively cheap to fix too, unless your 2wd setting within the gearbox is shot, but you’d have metal chunks in the gearbox oil if this were the case - and it would be the last thing I’d check if you don’t find any other issues that resolve the problem. 

Cheers 

Bennie

Edited August 21, 20214 yr by el_freddo

Thanks a lot for the replies everyone! I did the test where I put it in 2wd and put it in first gear while the engine is running. The car does not move, I was able to push the car by hand as if it were in neutral. Does this sound like its not properly engaging in 2wd mode and if so what could cause it? 

Edit: I will also check to see if the front axles have stripped out of the hub later this evening or tomorrow morning. (Thank you George1943)

Edited August 21, 20214 yr by Calibud916

When in 2wd mode, in gear, clutch out, engine tuning - does the speedo register anything or just stay on zero? 

This will give you a clue as to what to look at. If there’s no speed indicated it’ll be the 2wd selector not engaging properly, if it’s showing something on the speedo it’ll be a hub or driveshaft issue. 

Cheers 

Bennie

On 8/20/2021 at 9:15 AM, silverhelme said:

What was the reason for replacing the clutch originally? What you are describing sounds like a stripped front hub. The clutch will work the same 2 or 4wd. One other possibility is are you actually getting it into 2wd or are you hitting the neutral spot because of misadjustment or binding of the linkage?

 

On 8/20/2021 at 3:09 PM, George1943 said:

I agree with silverhelme. I'm thinking the grinding noise you heard with the old clutch was the axle slipping in one of the front hubs. Maybe you didn't need a new clutch after all.  Try putting it in gear ( two wheel drive ) and with the  clutch pedal out, have someone look at the front axles to see if one of them is just spinning in the hub. If it's not moving anyway, you could just get out and check for yourself if you don't have someone to check for you. 

 

On 8/20/2021 at 8:52 PM, DaveT said:

The 2WD vs 4WD power routing is done in the transmission, after the clutch. 

The most common won't move in 2WD problem is a stripped hub - due to the axle nut not tight enough.   Theoretically, a failed CV / axle shaft, or a differential problem could also cause similar results, but I don't remember seeing a thread about that.

You sirs all deserve a medal! You all nailed it. That's exactly what happened, I don't think I ever needed a clutch, some mechanic my buddy recommended!

So I jacked the front of the car up, took the front tires off and put it in 2wd and first gear and the passenger side axle is spinning freely, but not actually spinning the wheel. I check the axle nut and it was loose, like I could remove it with my bare hands loose. The driver side axle was not spinning at all however I think that may be due to no limited slip differential? therefore the pass. side wheel getting more power/power first? Stripped hub is what it looks like, that's what that grinding was before replacing the clutch, just as George1943 said. 

Thank you all so much for your help! Now I just have to find a hub assembly and replace the axle, just glad I don't have to redo the clutch or something...

Anyone have a part number or know where I can get the passenger side hub assembly? Having some trouble locating one, at least online. Will call autozone and oreilly tomorrow

Look for used parts.  

Lots of parts for these models are NLA,  so, keeping an eye out for parts cars, extras from when someone decides to move to something newer,  etc.

The nut should be around 150ft lbs torque, and then cotter pin.  It's also good to go somewhere,  then re check after 10 miles or so, just in case.

The differential is just a plain open diff, so if one side has no load, it spins, and the other side gets no power.

Pull the hub off and see if the axle needs to be swapped out. I reckon you’ll find the axle is ok to reuse and the hub is toast. 

Cheers 

Bennie