Calling All Dual Range Owners

[SuspiciousPizza]

I got my hands on a factory parts catalog and it's lead me down a confusing rabbit hole.

I have an '89 GL, SPFI with the dual range transmission. It has the front CV axles with the ribbed inner joint and the two identification bands on the axle shaft near the outer joint. ID #87AC. 

The service manual says these axles are for the CARBED engine, not the fuel injected.

 

If the reader of this post has an SPFI with the dual range, what axles do you have? Because I'm starting to think I may have the wrong axles (?)

The parts manual is a joy to decipher on its own but the best I can tell the 87AC axles are not for the SPFI with dual range (I'm thinking the correct axles are the 95AC-23). Or does the SPFI fall under the "Carbureted" category since it's basically the e-cig version of the carburetor?

 

Thanks :]

[moosens]

From my 1985 factory parts catalog which has the dual range:

station wagon with dual range non turbo would use p/n 23221 GA232 the best I can tell.

and the part name indicates 7AC   
 

I can’t post pics right now and I’m a little worn out from the day. It’s a little confusing with the other axles so I’d better rest and look at it again another time. 
It seems there are a couple models that have a turbo but get 23 spline axles, which is weird. The 25 spline axles are the predominant turbo axle for sure. Maybe the 23 for automatics or something I’m not seeing. 

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

Since this information is difficult to track down - I have a "Identification number" to part number match that I'm quite positive is correct.

ID# 95AC-23 is part number SOA925H300R1

The axle in question is for the following models per my '85 GL/DL - '90 Loyale parts catalog. 

Hatchback:

'88-'90 DL/GL/RS with SPFI

'86 - '90 DL/GL/RS/Single Range 4WD (only turbo models)

4-Door:

'85 GL-10 turbo with 3AT 

'88 - '90 DL/GL with SPFI 

'86 - '89 4WD turbo & RX turbo with automatic transmission 

'85 DL turbo/GL-10 turbo/RX turbo 

'86 - '90 DL turbo/ Single Range 4WD turbo/ RX turbo

'88 - '89 full-time 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'86 - '90 DL turbo/ GL-10 turbo (2WD & automatic transmission only)

Station Wagon

'85 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'88 - '90 DL SPFI/GL SPFI/GL turbo/GL-10 turbo 

'86 - '89 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'86 - '89 DL turbo/ GL turbo/ GL-10 turbo/ Single Range 4WD turbo

'88 - '89 full-time 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'86 - '90 DL turbo/GL turbo/GL-10 turbo (2WD and automatic transmission only)

 

Alternate P/N's. 23221GA372, 23221GA373, 23221GA592, 23221GA593

 

If you have information that contradicts with anything above, please share.

 

Thanks :]

      

   

Edited February 22 by SuspiciousPizza

[SuspiciousPizza]

I have been progressing through my engine rebuild and the time had come to pull my transmission for a reseal.

Additionally, I would like to address what I believe to be a 3rd & 4th gear synchro issue.

I can only upshift into 3rd smoothly above 5k RPM and I cannot downshift into 3rd without a minor grind followed by an audible 'click'. My clutch cable and throw out bearing were shot, compounding the down shifting issue.

Question: Could I take the 3rd/4th gear synchro out a '92 Loyale S/R 4WD trans and use that in my '89 5M D/R trans? Is there a specific oil (ATF flush?) I could use that would potentially resolve this issue?

The case has to be split for the reseal anyways so if a synchro needs replacing, you're already in there.

 

Thanks :]

 

[bushytails]

Double clutch downshifts...

 

 

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

Double clutch helps but there is still resistance and noise when downshifting to 3rd. 

I'm more inclined to just leaving it be. A new throw out bearing, cable, and shift linkage bushings will help.

Although if it'd be best to rebuild, then I'll go that route. I live in a hilly area so smooth downshifting is nice.

These cars aren't safe nor fast. Turning onto a blind uphill 55 zone from a stop sign can be sketchy. It'd be preferable if my transmission operated as it should when I needed it to.

Edited Sunday at 04:00 PM by SuspiciousPizza
Spelling

[el_freddo]

If you’re pulling the synchros out you might as well get them bead blasted and put them back in. This will be your issue - the synchros are worn out and smooth so they no longer grab to match the gearset speeds with the engagement hub. 

Rough them up and they should work properly again. 

Gearbox work can get tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing - but as always, the best way is to learn! Just have a back up plan if the rebuild doesn’t go as planned. 

Cheers 

Bennie