Calling All Dual Range Owners

[SuspiciousPizza]

I got my hands on a factory parts catalog and it's lead me down a confusing rabbit hole.

I have an '89 GL, SPFI with the dual range transmission. It has the front CV axles with the ribbed inner joint and the two identification bands on the axle shaft near the outer joint. ID #87AC. 

The service manual says these axles are for the CARBED engine, not the fuel injected.

 

If the reader of this post has an SPFI with the dual range, what axles do you have? Because I'm starting to think I may have the wrong axles (?)

The parts manual is a joy to decipher on its own but the best I can tell the 87AC axles are not for the SPFI with dual range (I'm thinking the correct axles are the 95AC-23). Or does the SPFI fall under the "Carbureted" category since it's basically the e-cig version of the carburetor?

 

Thanks :]

[moosens]

From my 1985 factory parts catalog which has the dual range:

station wagon with dual range non turbo would use p/n 23221 GA232 the best I can tell.

and the part name indicates 7AC   
 

I can’t post pics right now and I’m a little worn out from the day. It’s a little confusing with the other axles so I’d better rest and look at it again another time. 
It seems there are a couple models that have a turbo but get 23 spline axles, which is weird. The 25 spline axles are the predominant turbo axle for sure. Maybe the 23 for automatics or something I’m not seeing. 

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

Since this information is difficult to track down - I have a "Identification number" to part number match that I'm quite positive is correct.

ID# 95AC-23 is part number SOA925H300R1

The axle in question is for the following models per my '85 GL/DL - '90 Loyale parts catalog. 

Hatchback:

'88-'90 DL/GL/RS with SPFI

'86 - '90 DL/GL/RS/Single Range 4WD (only turbo models)

4-Door:

'85 GL-10 turbo with 3AT 

'88 - '90 DL/GL with SPFI 

'86 - '89 4WD turbo & RX turbo with automatic transmission 

'85 DL turbo/GL-10 turbo/RX turbo 

'86 - '90 DL turbo/ Single Range 4WD turbo/ RX turbo

'88 - '89 full-time 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'86 - '90 DL turbo/ GL-10 turbo (2WD & automatic transmission only)

Station Wagon

'85 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'88 - '90 DL SPFI/GL SPFI/GL turbo/GL-10 turbo 

'86 - '89 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'86 - '89 DL turbo/ GL turbo/ GL-10 turbo/ Single Range 4WD turbo

'88 - '89 full-time 4WD turbo with automatic transmission 

'86 - '90 DL turbo/GL turbo/GL-10 turbo (2WD and automatic transmission only)

 

Alternate P/N's. 23221GA372, 23221GA373, 23221GA592, 23221GA593

 

If you have information that contradicts with anything above, please share.

 

Thanks :]

      

   

Edited February 22 by SuspiciousPizza

[SuspiciousPizza]

I have been progressing through my engine rebuild and the time had come to pull my transmission for a reseal.

Additionally, I would like to address what I believe to be a 3rd & 4th gear synchro issue.

I can only upshift into 3rd smoothly above 5k RPM and I cannot downshift into 3rd without a minor grind followed by an audible 'click'. My clutch cable and throw out bearing were shot, compounding the down shifting issue.

Question: Could I take the 3rd/4th gear synchro out a '92 Loyale S/R 4WD trans and use that in my '89 5M D/R trans? Is there a specific oil (ATF flush?) I could use that would potentially resolve this issue?

The case has to be split for the reseal anyways so if a synchro needs replacing, you're already in there.

 

Thanks :]

 

[bushytails]

Double clutch downshifts...

 

 

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

Double clutch helps but there is still resistance and noise when downshifting to 3rd. 

I'm more inclined to just leaving it be. A new throw out bearing, cable, and shift linkage bushings will help.

Although if it'd be best to rebuild, then I'll go that route. I live in a hilly area so smooth downshifting is nice.

These cars aren't safe nor fast. Turning onto a blind uphill 55 zone from a stop sign can be sketchy. It'd be preferable if my transmission operated as it should when I needed it to.

Edited May 4 by SuspiciousPizza
Spelling

[el_freddo]

If you’re pulling the synchros out you might as well get them bead blasted and put them back in. This will be your issue - the synchros are worn out and smooth so they no longer grab to match the gearset speeds with the engagement hub. 

Rough them up and they should work properly again. 

Gearbox work can get tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing - but as always, the best way is to learn! Just have a back up plan if the rebuild doesn’t go as planned. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[SuspiciousPizza]

I don't intend to do the transmission work myself. I have a FSM so I know the steps, but reading through it, it seems like a nightmare. The main thing I worry about is these vehicles haven't been in my area for nearly 20 years so finding shops/technicians with experience with these older Subarus is difficult. 

Between the positions of the shift linkages, the very specific steps needed to remove the transfer case, and all the ball bearing detents and springs just waiting to go flying I'm reluctant to send the transmission to a shop and trust it'll be reassembled properly. Even if I give them my hardcopy of the FSM. 

Right now my trans is just sitting on my garage floor, I've been at a bit of a loss on what to do. I have a spare D/R trans but I don't have a history on it so I'm reluctant to just throw it in and send it.

[el_freddo]

What other option is there? Throw in the unknown box and send it as you say. It’ll either work as it should or it won’t! 

Otherwise you have potentially three paperweights sitting around… 

Cheers 

Bennie

[SuspiciousPizza]

Well I am waiting on my engine rebuilder to contact me about how my engine inspection went and what work will need to be done. I'm having them measure everything (not cheap but if it's worth doing it's worth doing properly). 

Once they contact me, I'll ask them about the transmission (the one I pulled from the car) and if they'd be willing to have a go at it. I've heard very good things about this shop and they work on anything, they're just busy so progress can be slow. I just gotta have patience. 

If they aren't willing to work on it, then it's basically up to me to pull the synchros. I've been quite unimpressed by the lack of willingness to work on older vehicles at most shops in my area. I've been told "if we can't plug a scanner into it, we can't work on it". 

I don't mind getting my hands dirty, it's just when I'm working on something outside of my known skill set on very rare parts, that's where I start to get cold feet. Either way I gotta make a decision. I'll keep y'all posted.

:]

[moosens]

We have to understand the shops need to pay bills and keep a good reputation of successful work on more contemporary vehicles so word gets out and business grows or sustains. 
 

No shop I know of had a great reputation for working on older cars. 
 

And like most places it is not just about impossible to find that older guy still wrenching and supporting older vehicles that’s not a full blown restoration shop with rates as high as dealers etc. 

 

Sounds like the shop you sent yours to could potentially tell you they’d like to have that block machined and heads etc. 
 

Aircraft - ultralight- guys go though that because they’ll be in the air and it’s life and death. And the ticket isn’t for thrifty types. 
 

As for your transmission I’m with Benny. Don’t just let it sit there assuming it’s got issues. 
 

D/R four speeds yes the synchros but you can work around for quite a while. 
 

D/R five speed wouldn’t even think about it. That’d already be in and I’d be driving it. 
 

Old guy opinions. Good luck ! Let us know what happened. 

[moosens]

And BTW please don’t be offended by the “thrifty types” comment. I’m in that batch - New England boy.

This is generally a site for folks who wrench themselves or are lower budgeted and looking for assistance on older cars. So it’s a big boat and we’re all in it. With very little exception. 

[el_freddo]

I’m in it too. I’ve picked up a few cheap Subaru projects. They get chipped away at when I can and when parts become available. 

Currently I’ve got my Targa Brumby (that’s what we call them over here!) that’s on the road. 2 RS turbo Libertys (Gen1) - one complete, one in pieces that I’m working on. Neither on the road. Both picked up cheap (not cheap now!). And a 1985 stamped EA81 MY wagon that I rescued from a wreckers yard where it was destined to be crushed. Its power steering rack was the reason why I found it. That went to a good cause. 

Anyway, side tracked there. Lastly, my offroad L series. Still registered but needs some work to bring her back to her former glory. 

All up these vehicles cost me $7500 to purchase. The Brumby, MY wagon and L series were all $500 specials! 

So I’m definitely in the thrifty category! 

Cheers 

Bennie

[SuspiciousPizza]

I guess I hadn't clarified why I'm willing to go the less thrifty route with this rebuild (jump off the boat and swim with the sharks, eh?). I'm in my early 20's, still with my folks and this GL is my car... My only car. My window of time living with my folks is quickly closing and I knew I needed a car that was reliable, and easy to work on. 

However the issues I had with the car were just one after another. It makes sense, the car is old and tired. So my plan is to get the car to somewhat of it's former glory, deal with the big issues (mainly engine and drivetrain) while I don't have a bunch of bills and have the extra parts stashed away for when some smaller issues come up as I start getting my feet under me and navigating life as an adult on my own. 

Basically I'm taking the "buy once, cry once" approach in the hopes that in the end I'll have a car that will get me through my 20's without a bunch of debt. 

And no offence taken, in hindsight I shouldn't have bad-mouthed anyone's business. I'm young and learning, I have plenty of mistakes yet to make. I appreciate all y'all's input, I just don't have much experience so learning from other's experiences is very much appreciated.

:]

 

[moosens]

Well you were raised right. Thank your parents for us, please. 
 

You’ll do well with this car I can tell. There’s enough older guys still out there who contribute to the knowledge base. And plenty of archives here. 

So back to the transmission, most dual range five speeds are going to be ready to use. 
 

See if maybe there’s some info or a video on a basic check if a differential online. I think you grab both stub axles and rotate forward and rear should turn counter clockwise as you look at the tail of the transmission. But it’s been a long while for me. There’s not a lot to these and I’m pretty sure like Benny and myself you’re going to see older folks say “send it”. If it was the four speed I’d probably advise you to upgrade to the five. 

 

 

[el_freddo]

I’d recommend putting your money towards an EJ conversion if you can. I did an EA82 MPFI conversion on my DL wagon. This is how I “cut my teeth” on EFI systems. No joke, I literally finished the conversion and rebuild when an old teacher introduced me to the Ausubaru forum where I quickly learnt about the EJ conversion. 

Since doing that to my DL I haven’t looked back. The EA died a sad death when the radiator blew apart in 45°C heat in the middle of nowhere. After jerry-rigging a carb EA82 in and running it for about 18 months (it kept me going) I got the EJ22 sorted and swapped it in. 

The advantages? Many parts are interchangeable between EJ engines, fuel economy was better, more power, more reliability and no oil leaks! 

These days I’d drop a phase 2 EJ20 into the L if I did it again. I too was in my 20’s back then. Still got the car but I don’t drive it as much as I once did. That might change again soon. It’s got 530,000km on the body and I’ve offroaded it probably more than they were ever designed to. 

If keeping the EA82 is your only option, make sure you do a good job of cleaning all mating surfaces especially the ones that have three bond on them (I’m looking at you cam boxes!). This will keep the oil leaks at bay for a long time. 

Lastly, you cannot get itchy feet for more power with an EA82, they just aren’t built to make easy power gains other than replacing with said EJ conversion. Been done a thousand times now so it’s a proven setup. 

It sounds like you’ve got a good head on young shoulders. Kudos. Look after it! And hug your parents from us as Moosens kind of said  

Cheers 

Bennie