Back in a GL

[moosens]

1600 vs 1800 ? 
 

Try a search for the 1600 using the same year and see what they say. 

[el_freddo]

I wonder if this is the turbo variant of the EA81 that you got over there but we never saw over here - except in private imports from Japan. 

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this!

[azdave]

I have a EA82 87 DL wagon and as noted, they have two different water pump pulley heights (because of A/C options). In my case, I found the pumps and shafts were actually the same parts between the two choices. The only difference is how far they press the pulley onto the shaft to create a long or short version. I got the long pump version before I discovered I needed the short, but was able to use a hydraulic press to push the pulley onto the shaft a little further and make it work, instead of doing an exchange through Rock Auto.

If you can believe the images offered on Rock Auto, there does appear to be two different pulley choices in your application. One pulley looks like it is slightly deeper than the other so it might not be like mine where I could "fine tune" the pulley location on the shaft. 

[Durania]

Good to know Dave. No going back now for me though, if it still frays the belt some, I'm going to live with it and change the belt regularly. 

[Durania]

Guess next on the list is to try and get some of the shifter slop cleaned up. How much of this fix applies to the 5MT?

 

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

DRW makes a full polyurethane shifter bushing set (I promise I have no connection to the brand even though I sing their praises everywhere, I just believe in the product and respect the support for these old Roos). My shifter was awful before I installed them. Shifter in gear felt the same in neutral. 

Getting that roll pin out without dropping the transmission is a serious PITA. I ended up cutting the bolt going through the bushing out and installing a new shoulder bolt with a carbide drill bushing on the other end and an ultra-low profile nut. Clearance in there is non-existent.

It's really not rocket science, however you slice it if you manage to get a new bushing in there then you'll notice an improvement. May be worth replacing all the shift linkage bushings while you're under there.

:]

 

[el_freddo]

8 hours ago, Durania said:

Guess next on the list is to try and get some of the shifter slop cleaned up. How much of this fix applies to the 5MT?

 

 

Zero. 

The EA82 5spd is essentially the predecessor to the EJ 5spd and shares far more with with that box than the 4spd.

[Durania]

11 hours ago, el_freddo said:

Zero. 

The EA82 5spd is essentially the predecessor to the EJ 5spd and shares far more with with that box than the 4spd.

Do you mean EA81?

[el_freddo]

20 hours ago, Durania said:

Do you mean EA81?

Nope. Meant EA82. 

The EA81 shifter is completely different to the EA82. 

Ahhh… sorry, it just clicked, you’re talking about an EA81 5spd. I’m pretty sure these are more like the EA82 setup too. I’m not used to the EA81 wagons being a fwd 5spd - we only got that gearbox in the hardtop coupes over here. All wagons were 4wd 4spd boxes. 

So with your sloppy shifter, get under the car:

If you see a uni joint on the selector shaft it’s same or very close to EA82. It probably needs a set of bushes, I did a repair to mine once with a piece of garden hose…

If the selector shaft is horizontal and has a sleeve over it then that thread fix *should* be of use. 

Hope this helps - and clears up some confusion!

[Durania]

Thanks man. I'm definitely familiar with the shifter joint fix on the EJ series as I've done it three times before and makes me hate roll pins. 

I shot DRW an email to see what they have for it, I appreciate the referral. 

[Durania]

Drove the GL to work for the first time Wednesday and have some initial impressions.

1. I need an alignment.

2.The heater is fantastic.

3. Driver side axle started knocking like my brat did back in 07 with a janky parts store axles. 

4. I need a cupholder.

5. Hard left turn, my fuel gauge went to zero and then came back up. This was before I filled up with 100% gas so I assume it was  sticking float. Once it came back up, it registered half-a-tank. 

I got a few thumbs up in it. Definitely gets more attention than my WRX does. 

[Durania]

Friday night, I finally got a chance to tackle the shifter bushings from DRW. Thanks to @SuspiciousPizza for telling me they were an option. 

https://drwbushings.myshopify.com/products/subaru-2wd-5-speed-shift-linkage-bushing-set

First time working on the shifter of an EA series car but I got them knocked out. Having a lift spoils you on something like this. 

I took a before and after video but can't link to it but it was a definite improvement. I also replaced the pitch stop rod bushings but I've not driven it to see if there was an effect. 

[bushytails]

My '84's fuel gauge got increasingly erratic and now hasn't worked over 1/3rd tank for about a year...  old car problems!

[el_freddo]

^ driving to the trip meter, that’s always fun!

[SuspiciousPizza]

@bushytails You could try running a few tanks of premium (no ethanol) through it. My gauge wasn't working and slowly over about 2 months of driving the gauge came back. My guess is the premium dissolved the varnish that was gumming up the sender float mechanism. 

[Durania]

Ordered 2 new Cardone axles from Walmart.com. They were actually way cheaper than RockAuto and had free shipping. Changed just the clicking driver side this afternoon. I only drove it enough to pull it out of my shop and into the next bay but I didn't hear any more clicks. 

[Durania]

Update. 

Had to remove the water pump and replace and reseal with a different RTV. The water pump flavor of Permatex was garbage and never sealed up. Used "The Right Stuff" this time and replaced the leaking 90* crossover hose. Tedious as hell, but no biggie. 

De-pinned and replaced the alternator plug that had a broken clip on it. 

Finally snagged a blue steering column shroud. Didn't take a pic unfortunately. 

Boss got a 3D printer for Christmas and brought it to the office so I been wearing it out. Made me an ABS cupholder. 

Next issue: My son had noticed it a few months ago but I was finally able to see it myself last night but I had electrical smoke coming out of the ignition switch where the key goes. Honestly, didn't know that was possible. I know the PO had replaced it at one point because he said the OE was worn out. I know it had quite a bit of grease down in it. For the time being I'm leaving the battery unhooked in my shop and douched the hell out of the keyhole with electronic contact cleaner and compressed air. 

[Durania]

I also tried my hand at printing two different versions of the center cap retaining rings. Did one in PLA that was way too long and the other in the same ABS but it snapped on me as a I tried seating it today. 

[el_freddo]

Im super keen to play with ABS. Messed around with PLA heaps. Designed lots of stuff to - all school based for students m. Been an awesome journey though! 

What model 3D printer did your boss get? 

[bushytails]

The path from where the key goes to the ignition switch itself is long and not direct - smoke may escape through it, but you're not getting any liquids into the switch that way.  The switch is only two screws after you take off the shroud - pull the switch and work some contact cleaner in around the plastic piece in the middle.  The switch can't be taken apart, so just spray a bunch around the center plastic piece, spin it back and forth a bunch of times so it wicks in, repeat repeatedly.

[SuspiciousPizza]

For functional and tough parts my go-to is Armadillo by Ninjaflex. It's a very high hardness TPU so it acts like a normal rigid polymer but it has a very high bond strength between layers. 

It takes some tweaking to get your settings dialed in and may require dual-extrusion or a multi material unit when you print support material. Since it bonds so well to itself, getting supports off without cutting and sanding tools isn't easy. 

The best overall bed adhesive that works with almost all polymers, that I've found, is normal white school glue spread with a damp paper towel (3 quarter-sized dollops spread thin). Once that dries, lay a layer of Magigoo PC bed adhesive over that. That coating will last 3-10 prints before you wash it off with dish soap and reapply.

I've wanted to print a cup holder. Right now I'm just using a cardboard drink carrier I got from a coffee place on my passenger side floor board. 

Edited 20 minutes ago by SuspiciousPizza