2002 Impreza Control Arm Bushing Options

[Daskuppler]

Hello Everyone,

 

I have a 2002 Impreza TS with some leaky front lower rear control arm bushings (the oil/grease filled ones).  They've been leaking for a while and are starting to get some play in them so it's time to replace them.

 

The stealership said they are $190 each.  The auto parts stores don't carry them, unless it is Napa.  Napa wants $120 each.

I also have a used pair of complete control arms with bushings for $60 per side.  Mileage is unknown. Reportedly in good condition.  They are at a dedicated Subaru recycler.

Rock auto sells the delphi ones for about $35.  Are the Delphi ones worth buying?  Would it be between to just get new control arms with new bushings?

 

Thanks for any input!

Edited Tuesday at 07:14 PM by Daskuppler

[nvu]

Swap in the used pair, it's less hassle.  But also measure the length of the front bushing on your car and confirm first.  The swaybar mounting tab may be different too, make a note of it.

 Figure out if you want to get those Delphi bushings and build a spare set later.

Also pray to the rust gods that the big bolts don't break the captive nuts in the frame when you try and remove them.  If it's the original bushing on the car, chances are the nut inside is corroded, I'd recommend completely relieving pressure on the arm by removing the knuckle before breaking loose bushing bolts.

[Daskuppler]

13 hours ago, nvu said:

Swap in the used pair, it's less hassle.  But also measure the length of the front bushing on your car and confirm first.  The swaybar mounting tab may be different too, make a note of it.

 Figure out if you want to get those Delphi bushings and build a spare set later.

Also pray to the rust gods that the big bolts don't break the captive nuts in the frame when you try and remove them.  If it's the original bushing on the car, chances are the nut inside is corroded, I'd recommend completely relieving pressure on the arm by removing the knuckle before breaking loose bushing bolts.

They are the original bushings.  The car has been in Colorado it's entire life so it's not super rusty, but that's a good thing to note.  How do you fix it if the nut does break?

[nvu]

Not sure, haven't had one break on me.  Quick search on the internet seems like idosubaru has been through it before.  He's on this forum too...

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/repairing-captive-nut-failure-lots-of-complications.151202/

 

[lmdew]

Drill up through the floor to locate the center.  Hole saw down from inside to hold the nut with a socket.

Long breaker bar, turn it by hand.  PB Blaster or something like it to lube the threads.

[el_freddo]

I’m not sure that captive nuts are hex shaped, usually round tube that has a thread tapped in it. 

You can drill a hole in the side of the chassis rail above the bolt, only a small hole to put a penetrant can’s spray tube through to bomb the area. This will allow gravity to help it work its way down the thread. 

If you have time to leave this for several days then hit again another two to three times it’ll put you in the best position to get these bolts out fuss free, or with as little fuss as possible. 

Once they’re out and the job is done, seal the hole with some silicone. Could be worth painting the general area to avoid creating a new rust spot before the silicone closes the hole. 

All the best with it! 

Cheers 

Bennie