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Exhaust burble / popping EA82 Wagon??


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Hi, I have read about this one before but i cant seem to find anything on it now so any help would be appreciated.

My EA82 wagon has the funny exhaust burble and kind of backfire (but not really backfire more popping) happening on deceleration, it's been happening for a while and is now far more noticable since i got a new exhaust. any suggestions on how i can get rid of this?? it kinda sounds cool but i'd be happier without it.

 

james

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are you running a more open exhaust setup? I noticed with the dual open exhausts on my wagon that I would get a really cool throaty poppling burble when the motor was cold, but after it warmed up it turned into more of an annoying "ffshhhh pud pud" kind of noise :rolleyes:

 

I think you'll just have to live with it or put a quieter muffler on. It is actually a slight backfire, just not enough to make a bang, just a light pop from inside the exhaust ports.

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Seconded on the exhaust leak. My entire exhaust (all 3' of it) is a patchwork of do it yourself pieces from the autoparts store - leaks like sieve. Causes all sorts of pops and burbles just as you described. Check around the Y-Pipe to Head - those gaskets SUCK as they are paper with steel mesh inside. The paper burns away over time (like a week) and all you are left with is a nasty leak. I love the way the car sounds when it is whole, but it doesn't stay whole for more than a week, so I stopped bothering.

 

I have the same problem. Its an exhaust leak most likely.
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Thanks for the help, car is non turbo, recently installed new exhaust 2" from cat back, which is why it is now more of an issue cause it's louder, it is worse when cold (i think) and i'll check the y pipes and gaskets for leaks but, what is the best way to check for these leaks??

 

Yes the air injection system is still hooked up.

 

It has also been suggested that a vacuum leak (somewhere, in the mass of vac lines that is a EA82) may be a contributing factor, what do you think?

 

 

james

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If you look up where the Y-Pipe meets the heads you should be able to see burnt out spots around there if the gasket is shot. If you still have the timing belt covers check them for melting too - that would be a good indicator. Also CAREFULLY check the exhaust studs for tightness - this is a pretty common failure on these motors. I stress carefully because if you trash the threads by over tightening you will have to either helicoil them (good luck with that - never worked for me 5 times I tried it), or you will have to use the unused pair of holes on each head and have a muffler shop chop your Y-Pipe and re-weld it 90 degress off.

 

In general, look where any of the joints that you may have created meet and look for soot deposits indicating a leak. Often a fresh exhaust clamp will loosen up after you first put it on and a few heating cycles...

 

 

Thanks for the help, car is non turbo, recently installed new exhaust 2" from cat back, which is why it is now more of an issue cause it's louder, it is worse when cold (i think) and i'll check the y pipes and gaskets for leaks but, what is the best way to check for these leaks??

 

Yes the air injection system is still hooked up.

 

It has also been suggested that a vacuum leak (somewhere, in the mass of vac lines that is a EA82) may be a contributing factor, what do you think?

 

 

 

james

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