It was the ECU fuse that killed the power. I replaced it and it drove well for a while. After replacing the fuse a couple of time and trying to find what is drawing that much power, I've found the car has a great speed control for my 15 year old. When ever you go WOT (wide open throttle) the fuse blows for the ECU and the engine dies.

 

The ECU is not getting any code due to the power loss. I'm going the check the TPS and see if it meets specs. What other items are powered under WOT conditions that may be drawing enough power to blow the fuse?

 

 

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Completed my trans swap and got the $80 Loyale running for the first time. It ran fine for about 1/2 mile, then the check engine light came on. It ran for another 1/8 mile and went dead.

 

I just completed a trans swap to get this car going, so the steering wheel and stuff was out to change the brake box. I'll re check the connections, but I thought I'd get this post out for other Ideas!

 

Thanks, Larry

If the fuel pump is coming on, the ECU is doing something..

 

Is the light on the front of the ECU doing anything at all.

 

I agree that perhaps something has been knocked loose during the tranny swap, but I hesitate to blame the ECU.

 

Just for the heck of it, check your T-belts. (pop the dist cap and crank over.. see if the rotor turns.. that will help determinne the drivers T-belt at least)

 

 

Maybe something easy like a blown fuse/fusible link?

I know.. I've said it over and over but never estimate the power of a blown fuse. take a minute and check them all. boing

I agree. Check the fusible links for a blown link or bad connection.

I'm out of town for the week, but fuses, connections, voltage checks are on my list of things to do. A simple fix would be Great!

Initial message updated, any Ideas?

Have you checked to see if there is a mechanical problem causing this? Like the linkage hitting a bare wire.

Yes, the linkage is clear of all wires. Nothing flexing or pulling on the wires. I have not yet made all of the wire changes for the Auto to manual trans swap, but I don't think thats a factor in thisl

I am trying to think of any other switches that may turn on when going to WOT and can't think of any off hand. The TPS may have a shorting problem when at WOT. Checking it with a ohmmeter will prove it out.

The TPS has a small area with an open, so I swapped out a yard SPFI body. The problem was somewhat different, but still frying the fuse.

 

I conected the Green D Check connector to check things our and the fuse blew. I started disconnecting the relays EGR, Purge Tank, and the IAC. When I disconnected the air control valve, the ecu fuse was OK.

 

Swapped out the IAC with the original one and the problem is better. I can run without frying the fuse under all load conditions. I guess the combination of a bad TPS and IAC was to much for the system.

 

I believe I may have a bad ground, as even though the fuse continues to power the ECU and the car Runs :>) the dash volt meter goes to 10 V when I load the engine.

 

I put my fluke 87 on record and the alt. voltage remains at 13.6, so it's not the Alt.

 

More to follow! If you have any ideas, send them my way.

Good trouble shooting Imdew. Glad you got.

 

You have good taste in meters I see. I would measure the voltage difference between the meter ground and the battery ground to see if there is a problem there. I suspect the real problem may be with the positive wire though. The voltage drop may be due to losses in the wires. Possibly the fuel pump since you stated that it goes down with high engine load.