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92 loyale crazy electrical problem

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I have a 92 loyale 97000mi 1.8l a/t. right after I bought the car had to put starter in car because sometimes the car would not roll over. It would click but if you jiggled the key it would start. After that it seemed to still do it like if you left headlights on. So had battery load checked it was bad. Put new one in everything seemed fine. (also when running the car with no lights on the volts gauge almost pegs out. With the lights on runs in the middle. Now new problem

charge idiot light on, brake fluid light on. Parking brake light is lit. Has brake fluid,

parking brake off andstarts fine when cold and volts gauge runs in the middle now. Has anyone had or have this problem sounds like alternator. My 84gl did something close to this and was alternator ,can i check codes. Maybe it was never the starter:confused:

 

djcracker

I have a 92 loyale 97000mi 1.8l a/t. right after I bought the car had to put starter in car because sometimes the car would not roll over. It would click but if you jiggled the key it would start. After that it seemed to still do it like if you left headlights on. So had battery load checked it was bad. Put new one in everything seemed fine. (also when running the car with no lights on the volts gauge almost pegs out. With the lights on runs in the middle. Now new problem

charge idiot light on, brake fluid light on. Parking brake light is lit. Has brake fluid,

parking brake off andstarts fine when cold and volts gauge runs in the middle now. Has anyone had or have this problem sounds like alternator. My 84gl did something close to this and was alternator ,can i check codes. Maybe it was never the starter:confused:

 

djcracker

 

It's the alternator. The voltage regulator inside the alternator has died and gone to HELL. I'm not sure where you are located, but in the North East, Advanced Auto/Parts America has remanufactured alternators for about $60 with a 1 year warranty.

 

I have gone through this many times...

i second the alternator. same thing happened in my dad's truck. a chevy silverado. replaced it a total of 3 times in the past 6 years.

  • 1 month later...

sounds like a strange sort of problem

 

I would start by checking pwr and grounds and ignition switchs are weak spots in the old subs to check your alt while running use a multi meter and see what sort of voltage it produces 13.5 to 15 is good depending on the bats stat of charge

just throwing parts in your car on a hunch can get costly i have been there

its better if you can prove that they are defective

Diodes in the rectifier (inside the alternator) are probably toast. You can have your alternator rebuilt by an alternator shop for about the cost of a rebuilt alternator. If you do this, make sure they check and replace the diodes if fried.

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