subusolo2nut Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 OK--I finally got the time to put T-Rex up on the lift to shoot the pics---took TWO days for the line-up shop boys to have the time to fit him in--Specs right now are---Zero toe---.9 positive caster & .5 negative camber---when I work up a mod to the rack & tie-rod ends to allow more adjustment, I'm going for .75 negative camber & zero caster--not enough adjustment in the stock stuff to allow that much change----in any case, here are the pics---I still need to make spacers for each side of the Heim joints---that's why the washers--we needed to know where the proper set point was--- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobBrumby Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 heh looks nice, if its not too much hassle could you take a closeup pic of the radius rod heim joints? Hpw long did it take to make the heim jointed lower controll arm? btw the dual exhuast looks pretty snazzy too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subusolo2nut Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 heh looks nice, if its not too much hassle could you take a closeup pic of the radius rod heim joints? Hpw long did it take to make the heim jointed lower controll arm? btw the dual exhuast looks pretty snazzy too! Hey OZ-Land-Man--The first arm took about 2 hrs & the second was about 40min:grin:--most of the time was translating the thoughts/drawings to real life--I've posted the radius rods about a week or two ago--might look at my prior posts--ditto the exaust mods--the handling is BITCHIN!!! Just took a corner that is "Labled" 25mph at 65mph---without anything other that just driving thru it--if I tried, I feel sure that 80mph would be easy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooinater Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 sweet! i want to see close ups and offroad pics with it flexing. to see how it does. i was just planning on using heims on the strut rod. what kind of tubing? DOM? need info, pics, close ups and flex shots. to see how well it does!!! what size heims? 3/4"?? or 1"?? sweet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 uh, its a solo II race car not an offroad suby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subusolo2nut Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 sweet! i want to see close ups and offroad pics with it flexing. to see how it does. i was just planning on using heims on the strut rod. what kind of tubing? DOM? need info, pics, close ups and flex shots. to see how well it does!!! what size heims? 3/4"?? or 1"?? sweet!! Yea--I'm a roadracer type--but you could use the set-up for offroad--use the greased heims--as for the size, they are the 1/2" #8's--The ones in there right now are commercial grade--I had them at the shop--I've got a high-strength set on the way--The tubing is DOM--got it & tube inserts from Art Morreson in Auburn, WA. (drag racer supply)--The thought process was the longest part of the design--welding & fab just "fell" into place once the plan was set-- I'm going to re-design the rear suspension next--un-equal A arms with rear uprights from mid-80's Nissan Maxima--I get rear disc that way & get rid of the heavy torsion bar tube:brow:--also allows coil-over shocks with adjustable ride height--- I'd say go ahead & set-up your car this way--the control over the front is MUCH better-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 ok, i am trying to understand this.ami correct in thinking that you are going to get a lower ,wider ,more stable stance from this setup?i am just now starting to understand the caster/camber stuff.i mean i know what each looks like.the degrees are what i would like to understand more .what centerpoint are the measurements from?btw mucho congratso on your mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subusolo2nut Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 ok, i am trying to understand this.ami correct in thinking that you are going to get a lower ,wider ,more stable stance from this setup?i am just now starting to understand the caster/camber stuff.i mean i know what each looks like.the degrees are what i would like to understand more .what centerpoint are the measurements from?btw mucho congratso on your mods. OK--quick alignment info---Camber & toe-in/out are the most important adjustments in front & rear of a car--Negative camber means that the tire lower side is out more than the tire upper side, all measured from a 0 degree point--the more negative the camber, the more "resistance" to tire roll-under during cornering--Most race cars run in the 1 to 2.5 degree negative area--the downside is increased tire wear & a "heaver" feel at the steering wheel. You can reduce the "heavy" feel by decreasing Caster--the amount positive or negative that the tire pivot axis "inclines" fore & aft in the body--I don't know very many (if at all) cars that use negative caster--positive caster is used to "straighten" the car after a corner--when you turn, this is the value that "resists" the turn--wanting to straighten the car back up....Race cars decrease this value close to zero (slightly negative) to help the driver work with the negative camber--as you see, the two values need to be in harmony to allow the car to "work" with you..Lastly toe in/out--again this is a value that work either way--toe-in provides a "self-centering" action as will toe-out--toe-in is mostly used in rear wheel drive cars because the front is steering & suspension only--when you add front drive, its better to toe-out slightly. So in my case--.5 negative camber is for cornering force--almost zero caster "helps" me by reducing steering effort at the loss of "self-centering" (which I DON'T want anyway) & I keep the toe close to zero to put most of my power to the road without "scrubing"(too much toe-in or out). Now that I've got everyone yawning---- Hows that for a kind'a answer---- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 i see,so in relation to a street/rally racer it is a better idea to leave the control in the hands of the driver as opposed to the natural characteristics of the mechanics,hence the change you are doing.now,in relation to a baja type suspension ,how would it want to work?(to many questions?i hope not) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subusolo2nut Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 i see,so in relation to a street/rally racer it is a better idea to leave the control in the hands of the driver as opposed to the natural characteristics of the mechanics,hence the change you are doing.now,in relation to a baja type suspension ,how would it want to work?(to many questions?i hope not) Wow!! In a Ideal world, you would want minimum camber change over a large suspension travel--a almost unheard-of state of being--In reality, working between positive & negative 3 deg during "off-road" work with a neutral (read zero deg) camber during street work is good enough--The prob is to get enough travel, you are most likely starting with a fair amount of positive camber--not very good for normal street use--to get lots'a travel & keep minimum camber change, you need long control arms---half the vehicle width is about as short as you need---if you could have lower suspension points at the trans center-line & use the normal strut uppers--you would be heading in the right area--this is not taking into consideration clearance of the arms--blah-blah Sounds like a interesting design study--- Take a look at the Baja 500 runners--the suspensions are INSANE!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subusolo2nut Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 I forgot to add--as far as control is concerned--I think that I am the better judge of what I want in terms of handling instead of some designer sitting in a office far from where the car is being used---I know that the intent of the car is far from what the designers were intending--- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.