it is spfi a/t fwd 86 sedan, the blower fan just quit working , i checked the fuses, i checked the relay on the passanger side under the hood all good, i unhooked the compressor , still does not work , where should i check next ? i guess check voltage at the blower ,

also the heater pk worked on all 4 speeds, and all the buttons worked , defrost, heat , etc...

Check the resitor...and see if there is voltage getting to the motor.

ok, will do, it was working just fine ,then my wife shut the car off for 5min and restarted the car ,and no fan speed , what should the voltage be at the heater pack ?

ok, will do, it was working just fine ,then my wife shut the car off for 5min and restarted the car ,and no fan speed , what should the voltage be at the heater pack ?

 

should be 12v or so. but thats just guessing.

ok, will do, it was working just fine ,then my wife shut the car off for 5min and restarted the car ,and no fan speed , what should the voltage be at the heater pack ?

 

Hi, The AC and Fan in my 90 legacy works when it wants to. Sometimes turning thr car off and back on will cause it to work again. Anyone have this problem?Thanks

 

My fan went on and off, after a bump or pounding the dashboard with my fist. I read this newsgroup-- that the bad unit could be relays, switches, and fan resistors. I finally removed the dashboard, slid out the AC / Heater control panel, unplugged the connector in the rear and took the front of the control panel case off. Two more screws and I lifted off the rear circuit board and examined the solder points for the plug connector. Several of the solder connection had very fine cracks and when I moved the plug part I could see the cracks (and the soldered pin) move, but, this is very small movement and small cracks. Under a 4X lens the cracks on three pins were easier to see. So, I simply reheated the solder joints on all the pins and added some fresh solder to make a more secure phsical connection. Instant and complete relief!

 

The reason the solder joints cracked in the first place is that the wire cable and plug that connects to the rear of the control panel has significant inertia. After 15 years the bumping and jarring wiggled that plug enough to crack the joints, even with strain-relief strapping. After the cracks developed, oxide probably built up enough to hold the connection open until another bump (or my fist) knocked the connection together again.

 

I ran through a lot of tricky hypotheses trying to find a way around taking that dashboard off, like the relays, a vaccuum leak, the diaphragm, and the fan motor. Also, since the fan often started when I first started the car I though it might be some sort of element heating.

 

Good luck.

I'd do a quick test and make sure your motor is good

 

If you just jump power to the fan you'll know right away if it's the motor or the resistors/switch.

 

Good Luck,

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer

01 Forester

Dont know if it applies but on my 82 EA81 I had my fan stop working. After two years with no fan I figured it out. There is a glass fuse to the left of the ECM, this was popped. I replaced it and the fan worked fine thereafter.

 

 

Alex

Jim,

The blower relay is under the dash above the ECU,.

not under the hood.

 

You might try this.

 

Look under the glove box where the resistor pack and blower motor is.

 

The motor will have a two wire connector.

The wire colors are green with white

and blue.

 

When the key is on the green with white wire should have battery voltage on it.

 

You can test it with a test light.

or

set the fan blower speed on high and put a jumper wire from a 12 volt sourse

on the green with white wire by inserting it in the back of the connector.

 

If the test light does not light the jumper wire will

make the fan run

 

Do not discount a furry creature jammed in the blower's squirrel cage.

 

Here is what you will see under the glove box