matrixops Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I have come across another possible subaru to purchase, but I am not sure whether or not it is worth it. Here is the information I have: 1988 GL Wagon, 4wd, 5spd manual 170k single owner, no rust new cv shaft and alternator. $1000 cash I am tempted since three showed up today, and were all gone before I could get in touch with the owner. What do the USMB members think of this price? The KBB of this is 1350 or so, so if it is good condition it might be worth it. Thanks in advance for your opinions. MatrixOps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I wouldnt talk money untill you see it, warm it up too full temp, and drive it (preferably on a quick stretch of highway!) After a good look then talk money. If it was mint I might pay 1k but I'd prolly talk them down anyway. If the engine, drive train or safetey is at all questionable I would be talking down hundreds of dollars. Might be someone willing to deal.... or might be someone who got suckerd into a $350 alternator job and $600 axle job and wont budge on the price. Check her out !_! Just my humble opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matrixops Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 I will most definitely check it out before talking cash. But it is at a dealership so it might be tough to negotiate with them. The reason I am asking is because it is a two hour drive just to look at it. MatrixOps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I will most definitely check it out before talking cash. But it is at a dealership so it might be tough to negotiate with them. The reason I am asking is because it is a two hour drive just to look at it. MatrixOps A dealership may actually be better in regard to negotiations. Chances are they don't have more than $250 into it. They may be very happy to get $750 for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 It's hard tellin until you see it up close and personal... An 88 that's rust-free and in good mechanical condition could easily be worth that. If you can verify that the maintenance schedule has been followed (either thru the dealer, or prior owner), $1-G for that car could be a bargain. Most people on this Board are looking for a "deal". Sometimes the best deal means you gotta spend a little more. Low price and good deal are not always synonomous. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matrixops Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 OK, obviously the value of the car is based on the condition of the car. So, what should I be looking for with regards to this car? Are there any specific areas that I should look at closely? Thanks for all the help. matrixops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtsmiths Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 In my experience (two '87 GL wagons) just check out the condition and find out any history you can (probably none). These cars are pretty much issue-free, bulletproof and with care will run forever. I've gone to a newer Subaru for some creature comforts, but for basic getthroughitis, ground clearance in snow and willingness to perform anything asked of them, I really miss our 'Jap Tractors' (as my Hawaii-born wife named them). We bought one with 80,000 ($3K) and drove it to 145,000 ($2K), the other we bought with 130,000 ($2.5K) and sold it at 212,000 ($1K). Owned both cars four or five years and never had a breakdown. Repairs were limited to CV's timing belts and wheel bearings. Both are still running around the county. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Repairs were limited to CV's timing belts and wheel bearings. Those, in a nutshell, are the weak links mechanically. You could include the cooling system too, but if you are meticulous about following the service schedule, a meltdown is unlikely. Structurally, the EA82 series is prone to rust. And when it starts, it spreads quickly. Even if the body looks good, I would still inspect the inside of the rear quarters, the bottoms of the doors, and frame rail caps. If it is at a dealer, it has probably been detailed to mask any flaws - so be especially careful. good luck, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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