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chef_tim

Official Weber thread for OffRoad.........

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well as dry as it is there during winter you won't have the moisture and cold issues alot of the other guys will have but I dunno about the alt. part though considering there is suck a major elevation change in various parts of central oregon (2500 @ Prineville to 4500-5000 ft in Fall River/La Pine)

 

Yea, altitude. I may give this weber a perfect altitude test. I need to do an overnighter in my old hometown, Albany. Whats the elevation there, maybe 400 ft. So from La Pine, over the pass at maybe 7000 or 8000, down to 300 or 400, and back. Heck, could even try to go on to the coast. Wonder if it will even run at sea level!!?LOL. It ran fine in Bend, so that's 1000 ft drop. Havn't been anywhere else yet though.

 

Pyro

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well it should do fine over the pass and stuff and I think albany is about 300 IIRC

 

It DID do fine over the pass. Bend to Albany through Sweet Home, back through Salem, Detroit and such. Never even gave a cough. Ran great.

The only grade that slowed me down was Hogg Rock up outa Suttle Lake. Had to shift down for most of that, and run at 45 and 50. Bigger than stock tires don't help with that.

 

Any way I'm pleased.

 

I still wanna try EFI though, just to compare.

 

Oh, and I got like 23 MPG, unadjusted for the bigger tires.

 

Pyro

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So I went to put my 2 bbl weber on my lifted Brat today, and found that I only have a 1 bbl intake on the brat. Can I have an adapter made to fit the 2bbl weber onto the 1 bbl car or do I need another carb? Thanks.

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So I went to put my 2 bbl weber on my lifted Brat today, and found that I only have a 1 bbl intake on the brat. Can I have an adapter made to fit the 2bbl weber onto the 1 bbl car or do I need another carb? Thanks.

 

what you have there is a carter/weber intake manifold so might just find a hitachi manifold and bolt it on cause it's way easier to do and better flowing than that carter/weber manifold

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what you have there is a carter/weber intake manifold so might just find a hitachi manifold and bolt it on cause it's way easier to do and better flowing than that carter/weber manifold

 

Yeah, stupid brat having a one barrel manifold. I don't think I'll have time to do it now.:banghead: oh well

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Okay, I got the new lifters in my car and that seemed to have a small benefit on my milage. Before I fixed them I ordered a couple of air correction jets, 175, 180. I changed the fuel jets to P:160 S:140 and changed the air jets to P:175, and S:170. It was just about right on the money with the baseline setting!! Gave the fuel/air jet 2.25 turns out and the idle got about .75 turn. It seems to be running good, just a little hint of a stumble on early acceleration, I attribute that to possibly being just a touch lean. I'll let you know what the milage does soon. Later, Tim

UPDATE:

I can't believe how much better it is, 20MPG!!!! and it seems like it may be a little better on the second tank with this configuration. I seem to have alot more secondary responce now too. I do need to work on the peddle, I have about 4mm of unused throtle:brow: .

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i finally found a return spring for my main .......yeah.now i have to remember what was all closed off on the intake manifold , and how?anyone got a pic of there setup with a stock hitachi manifold?thanks, brian

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I have a question. I'm going to install my weber soon and I was wondering that since I DON'T have to smog my soob here in Nevada, would I be able to get rid of the air cannister on the drivers side corner of the soob, near where the jack mount is? I might have an idea for that section of the car.:brow:

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I have a question. I'm going to install my weber soon and I was wondering that since I DON'T have to smog my soob here in Nevada, would I be able to get rid of the air cannister on the drivers side corner of the soob, near where the jack mount is? I might have an idea for that section of the car.:brow:

 

that's where my second battery is sitting :)

 

my engine bay is no different, with the weber, or the holley (except the holley takes up more room, and eats more gas) :lol:

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that's where my second battery is sitting :)

 

my engine bay is no different, with the weber, or the holley (except the holley takes up more room, and eats more gas) :lol:

 

All right you caught me. I WAS gonna install another battery there for the winch, lights and stuff. So that air box doesn't need to be there after the weber? Thanks a million. I'll have to go back and look at the pics I took of your Brat!

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I have another question. I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday who had put a weber onto his wagon and he said that he had some problems with an oil leak where he capped the valve cover hoses. He said that because there was no air getting to valves, he was getting higher oil pressure in there and some was leaking from there. Is this ok? Should I cap them when I install my weber as well? Thanks.

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I have another question. I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday who had put a weber onto his wagon and he said that he had some problems with an oil leak where he capped the valve cover hoses. He said that because there was no air getting to valves, he was getting higher oil pressure in there and some was leaking from there. Is this ok? Should I cap them when I install my weber as well? Thanks.

 

I currently have the drivers side one still hooked into the PCV valve, and the pass side on has it's own filter.

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I have another question. I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday who had put a weber onto his wagon and he said that he had some problems with an oil leak where he capped the valve cover hoses. He said that because there was no air getting to valves, he was getting higher oil pressure in there and some was leaking from there. Is this ok? Should I cap them when I install my weber as well? Thanks.

 

You should never just cap your breather system. In the old VW's the crank pully actually forced air into the block to keep oil from leaking out the front of the case. (no seal at all). What alot of the hot rod VW guys do is run a breather box for the crank case. Here I found you one on E-Bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-BUGPACK-CRANK-CASE-BREATHER-BOX-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34234QQitemZ7901582213QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

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great thread!!

 

I did a quick search on this thread and came up empty, so plz bear with me :)

 

my weber seems to work ok, but it has always hesitated ... someone just pointed out to me that the venturi's were loose ... secondary was loose, and the primary even more so!!

 

I was told there should be some sort of O-ring between the venturi and the barrel of the carb ... I tried to find some but it's a very tight fit in there, and once it's in place the gap is such that the O-ring that bearly fit going in is loose once the venturi is seated in the barrel.

 

Do I need a new set of venturi's or os there something I am missing? :confused:

 

****UP-DATE****

 

I noticed just today (sunday) that gas is puking out around the area where the venturi meets the barrel wall of the carb ... anyway to fix this? I'm toying with the idea of somehow using RTV to seal it .. just not sure how to do that and keep it from plugging the tube

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so any way to put on a weber and still pass emissions tests in texas? Am getting a little tired of the lack of power in the stock setup...suggestions?

 

Alot is going to have to do with your particular state. For instance in CA if you do any mods to the fuel system you probably wont pass. I'd suggest checking at a local test station, they should be able to give you all the info for your state.

 

my weber seems to work ok, but it has always hesitated ... someone just pointed out to me that the venturi's were loose ... secondary was loose, and the primary even more so!!

 

I was told there should be some sort of O-ring between the venturi and the barrel of the carb ... I tried to find some but it's a very tight fit in there, and once it's in place the gap is such that the O-ring that bearly fit going in is loose once the venturi is seated in the barrel.

 

Do I need a new set of venturi's or os there something I am missing? :confused:

That sounds like a case of bad bushings on the butterfly if I'm getting what you are writing. You can get them redone, but I think the procces is not an easy one to do. You may want to just grab a different carb and start over. They're cheap at wrecking yards, see the thread on what car to get one from. Tim

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Alot is going to have to do with your particular state. For instance in CA if you do any mods to the fuel system you probably wont pass. I'd suggest checking at a local test station, they should be able to give you all the info for your state.

 

 

That sounds like a case of bad bushings on the butterfly if I'm getting what you are writing. You can get them redone, but I think the procces is not an easy one to do. You may want to just grab a different carb and start over. They're cheap at wrecking yards, see the thread on what car to get one from. Tim

 

Thx for the info, but I think we are talking about a different part of the carb. There is a great exploded view of the carb on Carbsunlimited. The part I am talking about is directly under the airhorn (top half of carb ... I just learned it was called that myself reciently ;) ) the primary and secondary barrels have a piece that slides in from the top. They are a tube held in the middle of the barrel with a small passage opened at the bottom that connects to the bowl through the wall of the barrel (this is where I believe the fuel is sucked out of the bowl by the venturi effect once the engine has turned over a few times to create the vacuume to suck out the fuel much like how you use a straw).

 

I have air and fuel leaking where the venturi connects to the barrel.

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This may sound remedial, but you do have jets on top of those, right??? Those tubes are replacable and are metered with different size holes. Tim

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This may sound remedial, but you do have jets on top of those, right??? Those tubes are replacable and are metered with different size holes. Tim

 

Nopr, these do not have jets. it's listed on the exploded view on carbsunlimited as the venturi, it's item #91 or 92 I think. It's hard to describe them exactly :)

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We've heard a few reports from those who have had no luck with their weber's in cold weather. Some are going to EFI.

 

I'd like to find out how many folks have a webber and it's NOT hard to start their Soobs in cold weather.

 

 

which weber?

 

Which choke?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Pyro

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We've heard a few reports from those who have had no luck with their weber's in cold weather. Some are going to EFI.

 

I'd like to find out how many folks have a webber and it's NOT hard to start their Soobs in cold weather.

 

 

which weber?

 

Which choke?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Pyro

 

well, before I removed the choke tower to increase flow, it was pretty easy .. DGAV 32/36 and even tho it takes alot of pumping the gas, I am still able to start it with no choke on cold days like today when it was 23 DEG :drunk:

 

the trick is there is still a fuel enrichment circuit even tho there isn't a choke, so it's a pain but it works ;)

 

P.S. that's with an electric choke

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Form those of you who don't have it yet...

 

the 32/36 DGV Manual Choke Weber diagram

 

http://www.racetep.com/weber/32_36DGV.pdf

 

1. Pull out choke completely and start car. (Do not pump the pedal!) Once it starts. back in the choke until the revs come up and the engine smoothes out. (About 1/2 way on warm days, 1/4 on cold ones.) This is called the 'sweet zone' and it is where you will be setting the choke each time once you have the car started. It will become second nature, but fur now you may have to work at it. When the temp gauge comes up off 'C' you will want to push the choke in 1/2 the distance remaining. When at operating temp, push it all the way in. (If you forget or fail to get the choke sot correctly you can foul spark plugs!) Note: During this time the paint on your new header will burn off and cause lots of smelly smoke. (This is ok and your car is not going up in flames!)

 

 

2.You can start tuning as soon as the engine is fully warmed- up and you are off choke. The first thing is to adjust the idle speed to about 800-900 rpm. (The idle speed may be set too low from factory and the car may die when you push in the choke. Just adjust up the idle speed a small amount.)

 

3. With the speed at 800-900 rpm. adjust the mixture screw counterclockwise in 1/8 of a turn increments, pausing a second or two between each turn to allow the engine to catch up. Listen to the rpm; if it comes up. adjust the idle speed screw to keep it within 900-1000 rpm and continue until the rpm starts to decline. Don't adjust for the decline, but now start turning the mixture screw clockwise in the same 1/8 turn jumps. Remember to pause. Continue this until the rpm starts to decline and the engine runs rougher. Back out the mixture screw counter-clockwise 1/16 of a turn from this point and take the car for a test drive.

 

 

 

WEBER PAGE 7 FINE TUNING NOTES. Copyright BRIT-TEK Ltd 1993

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Well, I finally got brave enough to start studying on my used weber. (I have little experience with working on carbs) Took it off the shelf and tore it down. Installed the rebuild kit. While I was at it, I checked out all the jets, to see what was in there. On my wagon, it started hard, stumbled on acceleration, and so on. It had run, but not well. (though when I first put it on, a few months ago, it had so much more low end torque, that I got exited. But after driving it a few days, I realized I had much to learn, and tuning to do, but no time, so put the de-emissioned Hitache back on. Which sucked too.) The guy I got the weber from had never run it, and was told it had been on a VW baha type rig.

 

Here's what I found when I tore it down:

 

Primary idle 55

Secondary idle 50

Main prime 140

Secondary prime 135

Air prime 160

Air secondary 165

 

I found specs for what Redline puts in them for our Soobs, so shot for that.

 

My local parts store had most of what I wanted. Now it has:

 

Primary idle 50

secondary idle55

main prime140

prime second 135

air pime170

air second160

 

I had to order a main 140 from carbs unlimited, though I don't know what to expect when installed, and I'm reluctant to pull the top off again, it's running so great now.

 

 

 

and things are much much improved. No stumble whatsoever. Pulls great in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. 4th is still a little doggy, but improved. I'm lifted with 27s so 5th is about useless anyway. Idles smooth. I'm happy camper. Now to burn up a tank of gas, and check mileage.

 

Oh, and it's a manual choke, and at 18 degrees this morning, after pumping the gas at full choke, she started immediatly.

 

I don't know much, but I'm learning!!

 

Now then, what about these plenums?

 

 

http://shop.knfilters.com/KNShop/Product.aspx?pid=85-8927

 

Jeeze, they look nice, but at 180 bucks or something, definatly not worth it! I'd like to find a used one! (ROFL!) Fat chance eh? Like a snowball in, well, you know.

 

Anyways, I couldn't have pulled off getting this car running the way she is without this board and and all the great info here. Thanks guys.

 

Pyro

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Regarding the air cleaner adapter... Whoa! K&N has seriously jacked the price up! I paid less than half that much a five years ago when I bought mine from JAM Engineering. I just looked at the JAM website and see that K&N must have purchased the patent to make those filter adapters since they now have the K&N logo cast into it. http://www.jameng.com/products/index.phtml?section=14

They apparently discontinued selling a simple rectangular remote filter adapter that was under $50.

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