JWX Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Ok so I go out to start it and I crank it over, it starts like is usually does and then the RPMs drop and it dies. does this three more times till it starts normally, than after it warms up the lifters start ticking (god I hate that) and I give it some gas (usually stops after that) and the check engine light comes on, so I cut the engine off and start it back up and no check engine light, didn't do anything odd when I was driving it around, didn't do anything odd when the check engine light was on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Thats a SUBARU RX for you. Does odd things for no reason. If it makes you feel any better....my RX (fresh reseal and blah blah) running synthetic oil, the GOOD Motul 8100 5w30 synth...will, at random, on startup tick. Most of the time it wont...sometimes it will. I usually get out, stand in front of it, and say "Hey, stop that!" and it stops right then....and I go inside and wait for it to finnish warming up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 well get the trim panel that is above your knees when driving down then follow the instructions here Retrieving error codes One hunch is the AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve) located on the t-stat housing wants it's connection cleaned Could also be your FI coolant sensor contacts wanting cleaning . Retrieve the codes to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 i second that, it is a subaru. they do wierd stuff. check engine lights are a way to scare you to take it to the dealer... wait... didnt wjm own that one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 4, 2005 Author Share Posted February 4, 2005 I'm not taking it to the dealer. Wouldn't the check engine light still be on if there was something wrong? cause the light is off and its not really doing anything odd now. hell after it did this today everything was fine, except that it is only boosting like 6psi now. but I don't think it is related? and yes is was WJMs at one time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 6psi is normal. Mine is boosting 6 right now...well, actually 5.9. Sometimes it 7.5....sometimes 6.5....sometmies 8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 6psi is normal. Mine is boosting 6 right now...well, actually 5.9. Sometimes it 7.5....sometimes 6.5....sometmies 8. Yeah, I'm only boosting 6psi as well. :-\ wait... didnt wjm own that one?Well, this explains everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Yeah, I'm only boosting 6psi as well. :-\ Well, this explains everything. It must be an atmospheric thing. Ha. Ha. Ha. :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 4, 2005 Author Share Posted February 4, 2005 well normally I get around 8 or so, but today it was 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 so it did it agian today, but the CEL went out when the engine was still on, and the engine droped 500 RPMs then came back like everything was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austin Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 You might want to check your electrical connections... a loose battery cable (not just at the connector) can do things like that. A bad ground wire (or two?) could produce some wacky things from time to time too. As for the ticking, I'm not sure if the EA82T uses an oil pump seal like the ER27 or not, but on the ER27 there's this seal affectionately known as "The Mickey Mouse Seal". One of the o-ring type sections of this seal (one of Mickey's ears) can sometimes deform under suction and sort of pull out of place a bit. This lets air into the oil - it's sort of the exact opposite of most leaks on a Subaru! What happens next is you get air bubbles in the oil and they work themselves up to the hydraulic lash adjusters. Now you don't have enough oil in there to keep 'em properly primed, so to speak. Thus the tapping. The solution? Obviously resealing the pump is the basic answer, but to ensure Mickey's ear doesn't get out of round again, you can fashion a short metal sleeve, out of rolled metal (think of a really short, fat metal straw with a slice down the side), to insert in the opening. This will allow the oil to flow freely as ever, but it keeps the seal from deforming. Whew! Sorry for the epic novel of a post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avatar382 Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Mine will tick on occasion, and the whole engine was rebuilt less than 10K miles ago... Goes away, but just goes to show that these things *will* tick. Just the nature of the beast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 The ticking does not concern me, as I have great oil pressure its just damned annoying. I am going to pull codes as per Skip’s advice, now that I know it will show something with out the CEL being lit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 so I just checked it without any connectors connected, (the starting and driving codes only) and I get 21 coolant temp sensor, which one is that? going out to check the memory on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 you are welcome see my first post in this thread here it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 so the stored codes are 21 (coolant temp sensor) 23 (airflow meter) and 44 (?) now I accedently left the MAF unhooked when I got the car and started the engine could this be the 23 code, cause I haven't cleared codes on it. so its the one on back of the manifold, good should be easy to get too. so I guess just get a new one and replace it? or can I clean this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 ok so I went back and checked your first reply skip and I must say you are a subie god. pm coming your way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted February 13, 2005 Author Share Posted February 13, 2005 so I cleaned it and so far, all is right with it. it didn't even tick anyways I am now wondering why a temp sensor being all corroded would cause all that stuff in the first place? and anybody have any info on that code 44? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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