austin

Worth every penny! WOW!Holy schmoley! You and Jim need to mate them and get a nice gray one out of it.

Sold in Japan as the Alcyone, with designations VS (NA), VR (turbo), and VX (flat 6). Sold in Australia and New Zealand as the Vortex (Vortex XT, Vortex Turbo, and the extremely rare Vortex ZZ6 (XT6). Sold in North America as the XT, XT Turbo, and XT6.Sold in Europe as the XT, XT Turbo, and XT6 (XT6 possibly only sold in the UK).

Connie, I'll look tonight when I get home from work... if I have a spare coil, I'll bring it to the Dragon. If by midweek you feel confident in yours, go ahead and drive it down to NC, and I'll give you mine. I think all the problems you've been having have been sort of like breaking a wild stallion... eventually that horse is going to be a firey favorite steed.

You know the funny thing is, in that photo of the inspection sticker with all the reflective surfaces, you can't make out even a hint of a tin foil hat.

I'm in Jacksonville (32258 - Avenues area off Greenland Road). There are a few of us 80's Roo owners in FL that are traveling up to "The Dragon Run" in June - you're welcome to caravan on up there and crash in one of our cabins/rooms. It'll mostly be XTs and XT6es but there'll be a few other Roos (SVXes, GL Wagon or two maybe). Good to have another owner representing JAX!

You probably know this already, but Manny has one on his monster XT Turbo.

You might want to check your electrical connections... a loose battery cable (not just at the connector) can do things like that. A bad ground wire (or two?) could produce some wacky things from time to time too. As for the ticking, I'm not sure if the EA82T uses an oil pump seal like the ER27 or not, but on the ER27 there's this seal affectionately known as "The Mickey Mouse Seal". One of the o-ring type sections of this seal (one of Mickey's ears) can sometimes deform under suction and sort of pull out of place a bit. This lets air into the oil - it's sort of the exact opposite of most leaks on a Subaru! What happens next is you get air bubbles in the oil and they work themselves up to the hydraulic lash adjusters. Now you don't have enough oil in there to keep 'em properly primed, so to speak. Thus the tapping. The solution? Obviously resealing the pump is the basic answer, but to ensure Mickey's ear doesn't get out of round again, you can fashion a short metal sleeve, out of rolled metal (think of a really short, fat metal straw with a slice down the side), to insert in the opening. This will allow the oil to flow freely as ever, but it keeps the seal from deforming. Whew! Sorry for the epic novel of a post.

Believe it or not, this thing (scroll down the page a bit) was rescued and almost resurrected... I drove it for a week or so while I was working on my other one. Damned lucky a cop didn't write me a ticket - not for the missing headlight, but for littering! I've since decided to part it out. Sadly, it was my baby. I actually bought it brand new on 8/8/89. My favorite car ever. had less than 100K on it. Oh well, two more in the driveway while I part out this one.

I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but what's with the cone style air filters anyway? To me, you're losing power by sucking in hot engine compartment air rather than the colder air from the wheel well... okay, maybe my frame of reference is too limited here - I've only owned XT6es. But don't other old school roos use the fender area air boxes? It seems to me that the colder denser air from 8" further out would be a lot better than the hotter, thinner air from inside the engine bay. Also, while I'm baring my true feelings about the things, I have stupidly driven one of my cars for about 5 miles with NO air filter (paved streets, no major dust/dirt). In fact I was on my way to buy another one at the time and I just wanted to evaluate how the ER27 would benefit from zero air restriction. Uh, nuthin', nada, zilch, zippo, goose egg, no return on the radar sir... I didn't notice a damned bit of difference in terms of performance, etc. Absolutely nothing. My point? Well, it's just that - what's the point? Sorry to sound so negative about it, but I'm just stating my perspective for what it's worth.

I think he means æsthetically speaking.

Huck, if this thing only puts out 100-105 amps, would it really be worth it to swap out our 90amp alternators? If so, I might consider it too. I guess 10-15 amps is better - and if it's an easy swap (especially considering our 6 rib serpentine belt).

Your English is way better than our Norweigian! Your English is very very very good. No problems.

I'd expect the header to burn through the rubber (is it a rubber line or metal - I'm assuming this is on your RX) and you can envision the smoke and lack of power steering from there. If it's a metal line then, yeah, like he said, the rubbing thing at some point.

120+ is not difficult in a stock XT6. Aerodynamics plays a large part in a car's top speed too - the XT and XT6 have a drag coefficient the same as a 2005 Corvette.

Man, y'all should check out Mr. Radon's XT6 that he's basically rebuilding from the ground up (even rebuilt the entire wiring harnesses, etc.!!!)... The guy's a genius and awesome when it comes to this stuff. His car was outfitted by the previous owner to run the AlCan5000 but never did, then when he bought it he decided it never would have survived the race, so he decided to build it up to do so. Well, He's done a lot to it and is probably going to do more but let's just say it would have been PERFECT for this project. Here's a link to a thread with some photos. Also, one of the XT6.net members from Australia was asking recently about any information that anyone might have on a particular rally that an XT (aka, "Vortex" down under) was leading until it busted a radiator or something. He said that it was the only small car running amongst a ton of serious off road vehicles, and it was leading the pack. Man I'd love to get some info on that event if anyone knows anything. Anyway, Mr. Radon lives out in Washington and would probably warrant a story unto himself.