Sorry to all the people that I harrased about my converson. I just got the dash harness and pluged it right in. Varooom. But it needs some tuning, the check engine light is on and it feels real sluggish off of the line and shakes the whole car when its idleing. Any thoughts.

Adjust Your Timing To 20 Degrees Before Top Dead Center.

 

The Idle Air Screw Will Also Need Adjustment.

 

Did you properly bypass/connect the neutral and starter switches?

I probably need a timming light for that?

 

The idle screw.... what am I looking for when I adjust it. Never done that before

 

Check engine light? I heard of people doing something to get codes?? Is that something I need to do.

 

It runs and drives. Is there something that I need to do with the nuteral and starter switch thing.

Dude, I couldn't even read the post b/c I was on the floor laughing at your avitar:lol: ! AAAAAAHHHHHH that kills me

Dude, I couldn't even read the post b/c I was on the floor laughing at your avitar:lol: ! AAAAAAHHHHHH that kills me

 

And no it isn't me..

I probably need a timming light for that?

 

The idle screw.... what am I looking for when I adjust it. Never done that before

 

Check engine light? I heard of people doing something to get codes?? Is that something I need to do.

 

It runs and drives. Is there something that I need to do with the nuteral and starter switch thing.

Yes, you will need a timing light, they are not expensive.

 

I am posting the link to a site that has the FI part of the 1989 Subaru FSM - I don't know if it will work b/c of new anti-spam stuff, but you can at least cut and paste it into your browser's navagation bar

 

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

 

the FSM covers ALL tuning procedures (and trouble code reading procedures) clearly and in-depth with numerous diagrams. All SPFI systems are virtually identical, save the 1986 ones. The FSM is the best resource period for what you have.

 

Don't worry about the neutral switch or the starter switch until you have your car tuned - they may not even need to be hooked up (though I think your CEL light will be on until the starter switch is connected - it just tells the computer that the starter is engaged - run a wire off the starter solenoid for it.

 

nice avitar

I will get on that first thing tomorrow morning

I don't think you have to worry about the neutral switch, but I'm not sure. I'll have to ponder that for a bit and maybe try hooking it up just to see what happens. Mine has been running fine for 5000 miles without it hooked up.

I just want to clarify that all links will work the same as they always have, the change is transparent to normal user operation, it only affects search bots.

 

That FSM link should get you well on your way. Most likely setting the timing correctly will help you a lot.

Thanks for the clarification - I know spam is a MAJOR issue. I have had to deal with my own nightmarish experiences trying to keep it off my computer. I was just not sure how the changes would actually affect me. It is always best to shut the stuff out before it has a chance to get in!

 

Sorry for the thread hijack!!

I don't think you have to worry about the neutral switch, but I'm not sure. I'll have to ponder that for a bit and maybe try hooking it up just to see what happens. Mine has been running fine for 5000 miles without it hooked up.

 

Mine has too, but it would potientially affect the idle - I put it low on the list of things to check. I think proper timing should solve the issue, and if not, proper mixture adjustment will. My CEL has not come on with it disconnected. However, I did have issues when I did not hook up my starter switch wire - I think the computer uses it to determine whether or not it should be getting a pulse from the CAS.

Ok i figured out the rough idling part. It turns out the spark plug wire was on but not snaped in. For those thinking about this converson my car with SPFI was just as powerful as my carb only running on 3 clynders. Let that soak in. Yes it hauls, for a lil subie anyway. (Not quite like my 5.0) The air fuel mixture screw is beyond me I couldn't find in the manual where it decribes what to look for in adjusting it. And the CEL, where do I start to work on that.

Here is a link that will help you read the codes. The LED on the end of the ECU unit will show the codes.

 

http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

that avitar makes me want to avoid your posts now...

scary stuff =]

Here is a link that will help you read the codes. The LED on the end of the ECU unit will show the codes.

 

http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

 

 

Well I got code 51 Nuteral swithch. What do I do about it? Do I complete a circut?

Well I got code 51 Nuteral swithch. What do I do about it? Do I complete a circut?

yeah - I think that is what I did with it - use the pinout from the manual to find the correct wires - wire color may be different, but probably is not

be sure to reset the ECU after you do

Isn't the plug that is right above the tranny the nuteral switch plug? Could I make a loop there then reset everything?

Isn't the plug that is right above the tranny the nuteral switch plug? Could I make a loop there then reset everything?

Could be for safety interlock (if your car has one - mine did not come with one from the factory, and I haven't added one - not sure how they are wired on the cars that have them). Otherwise it is your backup or 4WD high indicator light. Be sure to check a wiring diagram specific to your car before trying anything - bad things can happen otherwise.

There is a neutral switch inside a manual transmission.

 

It is not the interlock or the neutral start switch in the console.

 

I used one long ago to allow my remote start to operate.

If I left it in gear it would not start the car.

 

Crack open the FSM.