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Head cracks (some day it don't pay to get outta bed)


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I wouldn't even be asking this except for but two reasons. the first is obviously ignorance. The second is until the head gasket blew (and it was just a slight breach) the '86, 1800 Subaru GL was running pretty darn good. Plugs were clean, no skipping, no smoking or steam. Even when the gasket did blow the coolant pressure check didn't show any signs of leakage although she did start to steam intermitantly.

 

After finally getting the engine out (thanks again for that help) and breaking down the heads; on clean-up I could see the cracks running between the exhaust and inlet valves. By the looks of both heads I figure this is something common. That pretty much lets getting one through a salvage yard out. Is this somethhing that could be lived with given the running order of the engine prior to dismantaling? Or is the only alternative replacement?

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Let me put it this way, even though I have an EA81 engine. The smallest of the head cracks on my motor is the size in that picture, the other is larger. I am not having any problems at all, and they have been like that every time I pulled the heads off, at 140k, 175k, and 216k.

 

Its OEM.

 

Alex

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those heads are still good, cracks between the valves are a normal feature oin ea82. even if they go down to the valve guides they are ok.

 

what would be bad if the cracks are gapped open, allowing a valve seat to drop. what you can do for preventative measure is close the cracks with a punch or drift, and stake the valve seats in

 

chances are that if you go junking for another set of heads they too will have the same cracks

 

beware of cracks in the exaust port on the bottom of the head, as this is where the water passages are in the head, and cracks there will allow coolant loss out the exhaust, but otherwise still run fine, no water in oil

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those heads are still good, cracks between the valves are a normal feature oin ea82. even if they go down to the valve guides they are ok.

 

what would be bad if the cracks are gapped open, allowing a valve seat to drop. what you can do for preventative measure is close the cracks with a punch or drift, and stake the valve seats in

 

chances are that if you go junking for another set of heads they too will have the same cracks

 

beware of cracks in the exaust port on the bottom of the head, as this is where the water passages are in the head, and cracks there will allow coolant loss out the exhaust, but otherwise still run fine, no water in oil

 

Whewww!!!! You made my day. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to make my daughter's. My biggest concern was the possibility of loosing a valve seat and the piston chewing it up and digesting it into the bowels of the crankcase. NASTY!!! I am one of those who has to live by "Murphy's Laws." When staking the seat should I take the aluminum over the seat?

 

Good or bad I'm going to button it back up and hope for the best. It's like I said, it was running fine before the gasket blew. Looking at the pics you can tell this isn't something that occured several miles ago.

Thanks again,

Hayne

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if it were to drop a valve seat the worst that would happen is a valve would stick open. the engine is non interference so that wont hit the pistons

 

anyway we had this rx witha rod knock, ran fine other wise. pulled the heads and had cracks between the valves, down to the valve guides. but that didnt stop me from porting them and putting them on a higher compression block, the motor has seen 10,000 miles since then..................

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if it were to drop a valve seat the worst that would happen is a valve would stick open. the engine is non interference so that wont hit the pistons

 

anyway we had this rx witha rod knock, ran fine other wise. pulled the heads and had cracks between the valves, down to the valve guides. but that didnt stop me from porting them and putting them on a higher compression block, the motor has seen 10,000 miles since then..................

 

This is embarrassing but I'll own up. The first timing belts I changed on one of these motors I put the two crank coggs with the lips to the back and front rather than both towards the engine. They ran like that for about 6,000 miles then wore each other out. My fear was valve clash. Then I got to thinking about how the timing belts were set up on installation. and that eased my mind. It was a heck of a mess behind the cover with all that rubber band debris but nothing else was any worse for the wear. Live and learn....And sometimes we dodge the bullet.

 

Told my daughter this morning before she went on her mail route. I'm sure it gave her one less worry for the day.

 

Thanks

Hayne

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Hayne:

 

Even though it goes against common wisdom, those head cracks are "normal" on the EA82T's. If you are anal (like I am) you may want to take them to the machine shop and make sure they are true and smooth. However, you can probably skip this if it was a simple head gasket failure, and you pulled over immediately.

When you put it back together, you may consider running your belts naked. There are many good reasons for doing this. The shredding mishap you describe should convince you that access to those belts is going to be a fact of life, if you drive these cars regularly.

good luck, John

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Hayne:

 

Even though it goes against common wisdom, those head cracks are "normal" on the EA82T's. If you are anal (like I am) you may want to take them to the machine shop and make sure they are true and smooth. However, you can probably skip this if it was a simple head gasket failure, and you pulled over immediately.

 

When you put it back together, you may consider running your belts naked. There are many good reasons for doing this. The shredding mishap you describe should convince you that access to those belts is going to be a fact of life, if you drive these cars regularly.

 

good luck, John

 

I'm amazed at a couple of things from this experience. A cracking problem first off. But a cracking problem that an engine can live with? Its a new one on me. The valve guides feel great so I can't say it has been detrimental so far. They all lapped in today and the head is true so I suppose I'm going to start buttoning her up tomorrow. You can tell by the pics that the gasket didn't drive far. In fact it never redgistered on my pressure guage.

 

I consider the irregular belt wear to be my fault. If I hadn't put the cog on backwards I'd still be driving it. Negative learning is an excellent teacher....if you survive it.

 

I've never considered running without a cover. Sure would make things a lot more accessable. Not that they aren't already. That is one thing I like so much about the car. It's like it was designed by a mechanic! I hate you can't get the 2WD version anymore. I really like the simplicity. Just don't get that anymore.

 

This has really been a very helpful group of people. I certainly do appreciate it.

 

Sincerely

Hayne

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yeah if you run open belts, it saves you from having to remove the crank pulley and dipstick to change them. it keeps you from having to do all that and the covers to do the water pump

 

the only reported failure from open belts was from a rag under the hood. my car. i invented the open belts, well, i preech it anyway. never had a problem off road mud grass gravel rocks railroads, airborne and the like. just dont keep rags under the hood, and if you do, stuff them somewhere!

 

i remove all the covers, avery but except for the piece behind the idler pulley, as that area is the only part of the belts that are exposed from behind without it

 

www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm look at the pictures for what a naked belt looks like, the cam timing marks will line up to the gasket seam on the valve covers

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