April 18, 200520 yr Author still cant get the water pump off and it needs to come off to take out the piston pins. i really doubt it was rich because it got great gas mileage often times in the mid 30s
April 19, 200520 yr Frankly, your combustion chambers looked pretty good to me EXCEPT for that hot exhaust valve. As far as deposits, I have seen far worse in carb'd engines that were perfectly fine except for needing a head gasket due to age. Clean up the chambers and check the valves and their seats... especially the white or ashen exhaust valves.
April 19, 200520 yr OK - I guess I was overreacting - when I pulled my intake and exhaust off, it was spotless inside (I shot light through to see through sparkplug holes) but it has been babied in many ways all its life, and has had various cleaners (MMO, techron) put through it on a regular basis too - so that may have helped also bajavwnsoobnut is right about using the dead blow hammer or something like that - you can use something like that in shear with the seal - just make sure all the bolts are out Good Luck!!
April 19, 200520 yr Author Frankly, your combustion chambers looked pretty good to me EXCEPT for that hot exhaust valve. As far as deposits, I have seen far worse in carb'd engines that were perfectly fine except for needing a head gasket due to age. Clean up the chambers and check the valves and their seats... especially the white or ashen exhaust valves. both heads have an exhaust valve like that. I wonder why. I dont have a deadblow hammer but ill try to borrow one. I have an idea ill try tomorow.
April 19, 200520 yr ... bajavwnsoobnut is right about using the dead blow hammer or something like that - you can use something like that in shear with the seal - just make sure all the bolts are out... I have NOT done a waterpump on an EA82 (yet ) and my FSM doesn't show any, but waterpumps often have locating dowels that would interfere with "shearing" with a deadblow hammer. Can anyone confirm that EA82 waterpumps do NOT have locating dowels?
April 19, 200520 yr Author Does anyone know any good links for complete reseal kit? i do not know i bought it on ebay
April 20, 200520 yr I have NOT done a waterpump on an EA82 (yet ) and my FSM doesn't show any, but waterpumps often have locating dowels that would interfere with "shearing" with a deadblow hammer. Can anyone confirm that EA82 waterpumps do NOT have locating dowels? I don't recall a locating dowel when we replaced the seal on the water pump on my car (when we found the crack in the block after taking out the pump! )I know there wasn't a dowel matter-of-fact - we had to use the bolt to line it up.
April 20, 200520 yr Does anyone know any good links for complete reseal kit? Me. $200 shipped for THE SUBARU reseal kit.
April 22, 200520 yr Author well the problem looks like the oil control rings on 3 pistons were seized. But i still didnt take the heads apart because i lost my spring compressor. the crank looks excellent but for where the rear seal ate into it theres quite a gouge. the rear seal was flexible and soft and the front one was crispy and brittle. very odd.
April 22, 200520 yr Looking at the residue inside the crankcase as well as on the front of the engine, I wouldn't be surprised if this one has seen a bit of heat, which would explain the seals being brittle.
April 22, 200520 yr Author Looking at the residue inside the crankcase as well as on the front of the engine, I wouldn't be surprised if this one has seen a bit of heat, which would explain the seals being brittle. but why do people here like to say if it overheats then the head gasket will surely blow. by the way splitting the case was a ***************. i had no idea it was that stuck together. sorry that room has some very poor lighting
April 23, 200520 yr EEEEEEEEwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww....gross. I guess Im spoiled by my use of synthetics and keeping the engine tuned up...so when it does come apart...its really super clean inside.
April 23, 200520 yr If it overheats badly, the HG's can go out. This often happens because they are about to blow anyway and that one bad overheat pushes them over the edge. Being run "hot" without overheating can leave the HG's perfectly fine, but will start to cook seals and stuff. That motor's not too dirty...but yeah, synthetics do wonders for keeping them clean. The last one I tore apart looked brand new inside after running Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles.
April 23, 200520 yr Author well i was using synthetic. as mentioned earlier in the thread. 5w40. but i bought this car with 125k miles on it. I even ran a few oil changes with sea foam in them-now what came out was nasty! the crank is clean as a whistle.
April 23, 200520 yr Author did any one's engine have lifter bores with a nasty burr on top? they are so hard to pull out.
April 23, 200520 yr Author why is the area where the valve seats with the head black? why is my intake vavle loaded with deposits?
April 23, 200520 yr Did you make a lot of short trips in the car? If so, the intake valve could be crudded up because gas on the back of it "baked" on because the engine was not fully warmed up - happened a lot on 80's BMW's - running MMO/Techron supposedly helps clean it up. not sure about valve seats
April 23, 200520 yr If I were to guess from afar, I would say that the deposits look like burnt oil. you said that you had siezed oil rings, so oil would be in combustion chamber (piston top and CC crud) and blowby (compression rings probably weren't much better) could have caused oil in the intake tract and onto the intake valves. The deposits on the intake tulip sure looks like carbonized oil. I see that you got the valve springs off. I seldom use a compressor on an engine with lightweight springs (don't currently have a compressor anyways...); I just put a support block under the valve head and compress with my fingers.
April 23, 200520 yr Author If I were to guess from afar, I would say that the deposits look like burnt oil. you said that you had siezed oil rings, so oil would be in combustion chamber (piston top and CC crud) and blowby (compression rings probably weren't much better) could have caused oil in the intake tract and onto the intake valves. The deposits on the intake tulip sure looks like carbonized oil. I see that you got the valve springs off. I seldom use a compressor on an engine with lightweight springs (don't currently have a compressor anyways...); I just put a support block under the valve head and compress with my fingers. yeah that stuff isnt coming off very easily. its like asphalt, and a wire brush barely dents it. im soaking a valve in paint thinner to see if that loosens it.
April 25, 200520 yr Author screw cleaning the valves ill just get new ones. stainless would be nice. my motor mounts seem soft from being coated in oil all the time, but i dont know what how stiff normal ones are. should i replace them?
April 25, 200520 yr screw cleaning the valves ill just get new ones. stainless would be nice. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7926664888&category=33621 they also have a fair amount of other soob stuff relatively cheap.
April 25, 200520 yr Author http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7926664888&category=33621 they also have a fair amount of other soob stuff relatively cheap. but they have no brand name listed, i dont want made in china junk. does this fit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50454&item=7970218644&rd=1
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