thought I'd ask a simple question....if I change the valve cover gaskets, all I have to do is take the bolts off the covers, replace the gaskets, right. A few bolts, a gasket swap, and put it back...right?? Does the oil need to be drained? Am I going to get into any extra work via timing belts? Sorry for the basic question, but I would like to take care of this leak first, and then maybe later this summer change the timing belts, cam seals and crank seal when I got time

As I understand it, yes, you're correct. Just unbolt, possibly scrape away any "stuck" gasket material, and button it back up. No need to change the oil, although its a good time to do so since you're already under there.

 

I'm an EA81 guy.. so dont take my word as gold. I did flip through my manuals to see if there was anything obvious I might've missed with regards to the EA82.. but didnt see anything out of the ordinary. Undo the cover bolts, remove and replace the gasket and you're done.

The EA82 (not sure about EA81) has 9 tappet cover bolts. If you look carefully each bolt has a rubber/copper (??) washer on it. Over time these will wear and leak. If your changing the gasket it might be worth your while to get these washers for $10-$25 to help stop the leak.

thanks!

 

The EA82 (not sure about EA81) has 9 tappet cover bolts. If you look carefully each bolt has a rubber/copper (??) washer on it. Over time these will wear and leak. If your changing the gasket it might be worth your while to get these washers for $10-$25 to help stop the leak.

torqing them is inportant. not too much, and not too loose.

 

and expect them to start again in about 15k miles =/

Last time I checked the cover bolt washer/gaskets were around $5 each from Subaru. Shucks will sell them to you for about $5 a set. Or just use some RTV on the old ones. I've found a method that works good, if you have the time to spare.

 

Take them off and clean them good with dishsoap and water and let them dry. Then apply about 1/16" uniform coat of RTV to the rubber seal surface and let cure for several hours. They'll seal like new.

I just did mine. It was fairly easy. It took longer to clean up the old oil spills than actually change the gaskets. My Feelpro kit came with new grommets already molded to the washers. After I put it together I ran the engine til hot looking for leaks then carefully snugged the bolts again. I am already over 13 miles and no leaks! As with most aluminium car parts its best to go around at the proper torque several times.

how much torque???

 

torqing them is inportant. not too much, and not too loose.

 

 

and expect them to start again in about 15k miles =/

"snug" is how much. dont go crazy, and yet dont stop at the first sign of resistance. its a cork gasket.. so it doesnt take all that much pressure to seal up.

 

oh, and for reference above, the EA81 has only two bolts per side. installation technique is the same. "snug".

do I put the gasket on the valve cover or the engine...

 

the engine, right..............

 

 

"snug" is how much. dont go crazy, and yet dont stop at the first sign of resistance. its a cork gasket.. so it doesnt take all that much pressure to seal up.

 

oh, and for reference above, the EA81 has only two bolts per side. installation technique is the same. "snug".

The cover has a recess in it to accept the gasket. The head is smooth so you want to put it in the cover. The Felpro gaskets I had were a composite material that allegedly have some sort of chemical compostion that is supposed to help them seal without the use of added sealers. 150 miles so far and no leaks. The ones that were in it looked similar but were hardened with age.

The EA82 (not sure about EA81) has 9 tappet cover bolts. If you look carefully each bolt has a rubber/copper (??) washer on it. Over time these will wear and leak. If your changing the gasket it might be worth your while to get these washers for $10-$25 to help stop the leak.

 

As you look at the engine with the hood up, the cover on the right side (cylinders 2 and 4) has five bolts. The cover on the left has four and is the easy one to remove. The fifth bolt on the cover on the right is difficult to remove because of its location (down and in back). I did mine from underneath and it took some time. Buy new rubber grommets for the bolts. The new gaskets are rubber, not cork. I used no RTV or other sealer. Gasket only. The bolts are designed to torque down until they stop. No torque wrench needed. It's been two years or so with mine. No leaks.