On a 2.2L, can a streched timing belt cause a car to run rough? I've tried plugs, wires, ign coil (used), checked injectors. But crankshaft pulley does not look like it is turning evenly. Is it possibly the timing belt? If yes, will try. If no, car is done. When I take the car up to 3000 rpm then let it drop down, it does not recover well. Runs ragged, then does not ever fully recover. Hate this car now.

Hi,

 

In theory, the timing belt could cause roughness. However, your description sounds like something else is going on. Since engine roughness depends on ignition timing, proper mixture and decent compression, take a look at all three areas. You've tried the typical ignition components but how about the cam and crank sensors? If any of these act up, the engine will have poor timing.

 

Is it also hard to start at times? Is it rougher running when cold versus hot? Any other such details you can provide would be helpful. Have you run a compression check? Any error codes set by the computer?

 

Regards,

Adnan

check the throttle cables and throttle plate (butterfly). it can get dirtied up and tend to stick in certain positions.

you might also try checking out the EGR system. I was having intermittant rough running issues, and it would only occasionally throw an MIL. It baffled my mechanic and I for months, but it finally turned out to be the backpressure transducter valve that had a torn diaprahm.

Yeah, I am thinking throttle plate or EGR too. Where is the backpressure transducter valve? Is it inside the EGR? Here are the symptoms. Early this spring, every few weeks, I would start it up, hot or cold and it would run really rough for 1 minuite then settle down. I guess that does sound like something sticking. Then it started happening more often, especially on hot restarts, but would always calm down after a minuite or two. Three weeks ago, I started it up, hot, and it ran very roughly for several minuites. Never recovered. Had to shut if off. Now it is running sort of roughly most of the time, especially when warm. Does not settle down. Will check the EGR valve today. Can a bad injector cause these symptoms? Will also check cam and crank sensors and engine codes.

how about the injector resistor? my buddy's car had an ambient misfire was running mostly on 3 cyls, changed injector no change, coil pack no change, entire motor no change. thn he got the idea to change the injector relay and behold 4 cylinders.

how about the injector resistor? my buddy's car had an ambient misfire was running mostly on 3 cyls, changed injector no change, coil pack no change, entire motor no change. thn he got the idea to change the injector relay and behold 4 cylinders.

 

Miles, where is that resistor/relay ? Could you describe it with more details ?

Thanks in advance.

I did pick up a used fuel injector resistor. Will try that too. Thanks.

Miles Fox, thought you would be interested in fuel inejector resistance specs.

From pin one to 3, 4 or 5. Junk yard part is 1.61 M ohms

My part is 2.04 M ohms...sometimes reads OL!!!

Others: FYI resistor pack...take of plastic cover over ign coil pack. Look straight back. Up against firewall is triangle shaped plate with 1x2 1/2" resistor pack, large conector. Right up top.

Would be intersted in other peoples resistance specs on this resistor too. No info in Haynes, lol.

Edit correction: resistor is not resistor. Called dealer. Its the igniter. Retail new $246!!! The junk yard tossed it in free with the coil pack.

No codes. Car definately runs much worse when hot. No clue. Giving up soon.