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Son Of A *censored* Help!!!

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I starting working on my car... I got a new (not Cracked) head from Mark. XSNRG... Thanks bud... and I was putting the car back together today... and I went to put the intake back on and the bolt next to the water jacket on the intake seems to have seized..half way in.... I can't get it back out or to go in any further... anyone had this problem and can I get it out without having to take the intake out... with the head and taking it to a machine shop??

 

Any Suggestions?

 

 

Xoomer

I starting working on my car... I got a new (not Cracked) head from Mark. XSNRG... Thanks bud... and I was putting the car back together today... and I went to put the intake back on and the bolt next to the water jacket on the intake seems to have seized..half way in.... I can't get it back out or to go in any further... anyone had this problem and can I get it out without having to take the intake out... with the head and taking it to a machine shop??

 

Any Suggestions?

 

 

Xoomer

 

not sure this will help but,,, if you could heat up the area around the bolt a bit ( maybe using a small torch if ther is nothing flamable around it). and then tap on the head of the bolt with a hammer.

Thats how we used to get sezed lug nuts off at the tire shop.

 

In anycase,,, It sounds like you will have to rethread the bolt hole once you get the bolt out. and to be on the safe side use a new matching bolt to the new thread diamiter.

helicoil my friend. Go buy a helicoil set that will fit the original bolt, cut the siezed bolt off right at the head and then drill it, tap it with the helicoil tap, screw a helicoil in and voila! The kit might cost like 40 bucks BUT you get like 12 uses out of it and since the size and the thread pitch of the bolt is so common on Subarus, you can use it everywhere. I've used the same kit on an '87 turbowagon, '86 turbosedan, '89 RX, '79 wagon, '78 Brat, and a '86 XT on the tensioner pulley for one of the timing belts.

Patience and penetrant oil. Put some penetrant oil down the shank of the bolt, go do something else for a while (hours or a day or two). Come back and try to work it out.

 

Since the bolt was going back in, you must have had it out. That means that a) Its the wrong bolt, B) you didn't chase the threads before assembling things, c) you crossthreaded the hole (hard to do on intake bolts), or d) some or all of the above.

 

Good luck. But the good news is that if the bolt was out of the hole it should be possible to remove it once again without drastic measures.

  • Author
Patience and penetrant oil. Put some penetrant oil down the shank of the bolt, go do something else for a while (hours or a day or two). Come back and try to work it out.

 

Since the bolt was going back in, you must have had it out. That means that a) Its the wrong bolt, B) you didn't chase the threads before assembling things, c) you crossthreaded the hole (hard to do on intake bolts), or d) some or all of the above.

 

Good luck. But the good news is that if the bolt was out of the hole it should be possible to remove it once again without drastic measures.

 

 

I also forgot to mention.... I kinda striped the head of the bolt trying to work on it...

What Northwet said. Also, doesn't anyone use 'easyouts' any more? Drill into the bolt, screw in easyout, screw out bolt.

 

Ask your local auto parts store what guage easyout for whatever size bolt this (10mm, or so?).

  • Author
Have you tried swearing at it? :lol:

 

 

Why yes Sweet... I did... I also went Super Saain at it... hair went blonde and used multiple power ups and it still didn't work...!@!

What Northwet said. Also, doesn't anyone use 'easyouts' any more? Drill into the bolt, screw in easyout, screw out bolt.

 

Ask your local auto parts store what guage easyout for whatever size bolt this (10mm, or so?).

 

ACK! I've had the worst problems using those on Subarus and I don't know why. I like to go with the helicoil gig even though its a little longer process, it's putting brand new threads into the head so you don't have to worry if the original threads are buggered up and stuff like that. Drill, tap, screw in the helicoil and done!

Helicoil isnt going to get the bolt out...

 

Two great options mentinoed above:

 

Heat and lube. I go with PB Blaster first. Hit it every few hours for a day whenever you can. Still a no go then it's time for heat and the hammer. It's a pretty small bolt so don't go wailing on it with the hammer.... I'd tap on the bolt as it cooled off. Then try to come back out with your socket driver.

Folks suggesting easy-outs: Unless I read this wrong, the bolt is sticking up in the air, bolt head not seated against the manifold. It is not snapped off (yet).

 

Go with MorganM's more detailed description.

 

I can't help but ask... How the heck did you jam it in that tightly while screwing it IN??? I can see rounding the head trying to remove a bolt for the first time (not that I have ever done such a thing :rolleyes: ), but installing a bolt whose tightening torque is around 22 ft-lbs and getting it that stuck? I am impressed! :)

 

Are you using a 6-point socket on that bolt-head? That can make a big difference in preventing rounding. As a last-ditch option, do you have a way to cut the bolt head off, pull the manifold back off of the protruding bolt shank, and attack it afresh from there?

 

Good luck, and let the penetrant and heat do its job.

  • Author
Folks suggesting easy-outs: Unless I read this wrong, the bolt is sticking up in the air, bolt head not seated against the manifold. It is not snapped off (yet).

 

Go with MorganM's more detailed description.

 

I can't help but ask... How the heck did you jam it in that tightly while screwing it IN??? I can see rounding the head trying to remove a bolt for the first time (not that I have ever done such a thing :rolleyes: ), but installing a bolt whose tightening torque is around 22 ft-lbs and getting it that stuck? I am impressed! :)

 

Are you using a 6-point socket on that bolt-head? That can make a big difference in preventing rounding. As a last-ditch option, do you have a way to cut the bolt head off, pull the manifold back off of the protruding bolt shank, and attack it afresh from there?

 

Good luck, and let the penetrant and heat do its job.

 

 

 

I don't know but I am just about ready to invest in a jdm for this car... I love this car but am starting to get annoyed with it... time to break out Emergancy credit cards ... oohh the interest

Alternative to heating the block, is cooling the bolt.

 

Can you get an ice pack onto the protruding part of it, for a few hours?

Or dry ice? You don't want to get it so cold it fractures -- no liquid nitrogen!

 

Maybe hose it with a few cans of the compressed-dust-off stuff, not just canned air but a volatile of some kind of stuff?

 

I'd put penetrating oil all around it first, for sure, and ... patience.

 

The helicoil though is the most likely thing to work, in the end.

really you could leave it like it is and torque the other ones down. you can drive the car witn no problems for the immediate while, or at least till you get another head, motor, or the bolt out, what have you

 

dont let this keep your car on jackstands go drive it!

 

i have used motors with twisted off intake bolts and they do just fine!

If you have stripped the head of the bolt, weld another bolt onto it in the shape of a big T bar.

Give it some squirt and some heat, may be a little 'love tap' and gently twist it out.

 

Good luck.

  • Author

And The Winner IS!!!!

 

 

WD-40 and A different socket... and a big hammer... I should have this thing running by morning asumming nothing else goes wrong!

Good work!

 

Have you discovered why the bolt stuck in the first place? Wrong bolt, gunked up threads? It would be a wonderful idea to chase the head threads to make sure that they are clean and minimally damaged. Also, ensure the same on whatever bolts you put back in.

 

BTW, WD40 is not much of a penetrant oil. (I buy it in multipacks and use it for other things, but its penetrating power is weak.) PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and others are much better, and very good to have on hand and use before doing much on older mechanical things.

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