Well here is the short story,

 

replaced plugs, wires, anti knock, pcv and ran sea foam thru pcv. Hestation is better, anti knock code was there.

 

It is still there with a cyl 4 misfire I can feel.

 

Should I wait for the tank full of the 1/2 can of seafoam?

 

I made sure the contact was good in the anti knock.

 

The four wire test out good on ohms.

 

What is my next step before I let someone else work on it for hire?

 

Michael

Well here is the short story,

 

replaced plugs, wires, anti knock, pcv and ran sea foam thru pcv. Hestation is better, anti knock code was there.

 

It is still there with a cyl 4 misfire I can feel.

 

Should I wait for the tank full of the 1/2 can of seafoam?

 

I made sure the contact was good in the anti knock.

 

The four wire test out good on ohms.

 

What is my next step before I let someone else work on it for hire?

 

Michael

 

If you didn't reset the ECU after that work, I'd recommend it. Disconnect neg batt term , step on brake pedal, reconnect batt after 30 minutes or so. Start car. If problem persists, retrace/recheck all hoses from intake/throttle body. Can you 'feel' cyl 4 injector firing? Got spark at cyl 4?

i'd double check that the wire is seated properly at the plug and the coil pack. look at the connections and inspect them. make sure it clicks into place when you install it. make sure the boot isn't cracked or anything.

and what motor is this in? i talked to magnecor (www.magnecor.com) about the EJ22 (2.2 liter motor) and asked why they only sell their highest performance race wires for this engine. he said the the spark plug set up on these motors sucks and makes it very difficult to make a good aftermarket plug for. it is more likely to have a bad install and have faulty connections and arcing/grouding of the wire because....forget exactly why, the depth and tightness of the plug ports maybe. in any event, he said they decided to only off their competition series wires for this reason, to prevent less install problems. if you bought a cheap set of wires off the shelf at a generic auto parts store i would suspect that maybe this is the problem. to test....try to switch two ignition wires and see if the problem moves around or stays with that cylinder. if you swap #2 and #4 wires, clear the code and now the code is for a cyilnder 2 misfire then you can be sure it's the wire/boot causing issue. i had a heck of a time after removing my stock wires, i was waiting for my magnecor wires so when i changed spark plugs i just reinstalled the original wires. well one was seized to the plug (#1 cylinder) and required major surgery to remove piece by piece. tried taping it up just to get to the store, gave me the cyilnder misfire obviosly. so i bought a cheapo wire (single wire) they sold at the auto parts store just until i got the magnecors in the mail. had the right ends and all but it ran poorly and gave me a code as well. got the magnecor wires and it runs great now.

well thanks guys, I have experience so the boots have been checked. I did buy the best beldens and that started all my problems. then went to OEM at the dealer wires, they are not NKG though. i did look at magnecor and wanted to get theirs, but no listing.

 

 

I think the belden took out my anti knock sensor. i did the resistor fixed but ended up putting in the new anti knock sensor.

 

I is a biaotch to get those wires in, and I love to hear/feel the click, but these are hard.

 

i did the ecu thing, 10 minute but did not do the brake light drain. It is sitting right now with the ground off and brake on.

 

see what it is like in the morning. going to switch wires to narrow the search, and drive some of the seafoam thru it.

 

michael

swap wires between cylinders 2 and 4 and see if the code moves to that cylinder...that would tell you the wire is causing the problem.

 

cylinders 2 and 4 are on the drivers side of the motor, 2 is in the front, 4 is in the back like so looking from above the engine

 

back of car

3 4

1 2

front of car

Well here is the short story,

 

replaced plugs, wires, anti knock, pcv and ran sea foam thru pcv. Hestation is better, anti knock code was there.

 

It is still there with a cyl 4 misfire I can feel.

 

Should I wait for the tank full of the 1/2 can of seafoam?

 

I made sure the contact was good in the anti knock.

 

The four wire test out good on ohms.

 

What is my next step before I let someone else work on it for hire?

 

Michael

dump the Seafoam run the engine, reset the codes... look out Cleveland.

Later,

Peter

thanks guys,

 

Well the codes are off, but she still runs rough after warming up, but just in the 2500 rpm range. I am about thru my first tank with seafoam. Put some down the pvc. It seems to be a bit better but still there.

 

funny thing, the code is clear but it still misfires at idle and in the range.

 

I think I will wait and see what happens with the next tank.

 

but I need to pass inspection soon.

 

Michael

With all the ample space to change the plugs, i broke that spark plug when I tried to get out the extension and socket.

 

Now I have a new coil, good wires and new sensor, and have not been humbled from a broken plug in ten years.

 

Here is my recommendation...

 

I just learned how hard it is to do the spark plug change on the DOHC 2.5 engine. Since the room is so small, I had to grind down the ball catch thing in my extension. There was not enough room to put in the 16 mm socket and the extension at the same time. It was much easier to get out with the "catch ball" ground out, since they would then easily seperate. I broke one of the plugs, (#4) before I modified my extension.

 

Michael

With all the ample space to change the plugs, i broke that spark plug when I tried to get out the extension and socket.

 

Now I have a new coil, good wires and new sensor, and have not been humbled from a broken plug in ten years.

 

Here is my recommendation...

 

I just learned how hard it is to do the spark plug change on the DOHC 2.5 engine. Since the room is so small, I had to grind down the ball catch thing in my extension. There was not enough room to put in the 16 mm socket and the extension at the same time. It was much easier to get out with the "catch ball" ground out, since they would then easily seperate. I broke one of the plugs, (#4) before I modified my extension.

 

Michael

 

You were probably more persistent than I wouldv'e been! Way to stick with it, and thanx for getting back to us.

I have a spark plug socket with its own flex joint. I can get that in with the extension attached, and it sticks out just far enough to get the ratchet on it. Not sure where my father-in-law found the socket, but it works ok for this.

There's no 'easy' way to change these plugs!!