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How to install transmission temperature gauge?


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A gauge is always better than just an idiot light. But, the Subaru does at least has an "AT oil overheat" light, which most cars don't have. Are you towing a lot? What benefits do you expect to see from your gauge? If I was going to add a gauge it would be for engine oil temp.

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SOme of us like to know whats going on with our cars ...though from what ive seen the sooby tranny light sensor seems to be in a good place. i imagine an external trannt cooler would make the entire thing moot.

Which leads to the next question, where would an engine oil pressure gauge go

 

nipper

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I know on the SVX the idiot light comes on at 275 degrees. WELL Beyond what any atf can handle even for a brief period of time. Ideally you shouldn't go above 200 degrees, when I go over 208 I change my fluid when I get home but I'm also cheap when it comes to replacing a tranny. Mobil 1 ATF has the highest flash and fire points at 211 degrees for flash (meaning that is the point in which it starts to break down). Some people run Redline and Purple but I couldn't find any independent verifications of their claims so I don't trust it until I do.

 

Ideally it should go in the pan as you'll get the most accurate reading from there. From replacing trannies on our race car we've come across what seems like could be used for a hole already. It seems impreza trannys have a red cap on the bottom, I think this is where the stamp pushed through to insert the atf dipstick. Haven't come across them on other subie pans but I know this occurs when making most American engines (pushes the metal out rather than leaving it in the pan). I got my digital gauge and sender from Summit, it is made by a company called Norsduq or something weird like that. No issues in the 4 years I've had it on.

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I recently did this on my Toyota RV. I couldn't find a sensor that mounted on the pan (besides, there were significant concerns about where and very low clearances). I found a sensor/guage kit for around $60 where the guage mounted in-line with the tubing which carried ATF to the front cooler in the radiator. The only trick there was deciding which line was the "hot" line going into the cooler so as not to mount it in the "cool" line returning from the radiator. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward installation. I found it useful on the RV because of the amount of weight of the motorhome on an engine/tranny originally designed for a light weight truck. I also added a cooler which was even easier to install.

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I recently did this on my Toyota RV. I couldn't find a sensor that mounted on the pan (besides, there were significant concerns about where and very low clearances). I found a sensor/guage kit for around $60 where the guage mounted in-line with the tubing which carried ATF to the front cooler in the radiator. The only trick there was deciding which line was the "hot" line going into the cooler so as not to mount it in the "cool" line returning from the radiator. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward installation. I found it useful on the RV because of the amount of weight of the motorhome on an engine/tranny originally designed for a light weight truck. I also added a cooler which was even easier to install.

 

Where'd you get the sensor for that location? I'm really mostly looking to keep an eye on my rebuilt transmission - after sinking $2400 into it last January I figure a $50 gauge is cheap insurance. I was looking at the Cyberdyne gauge at http://www.egauges.com.

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I bought it from B&B Auto Parts (a local chain) and I think if was the Cyberdyne guage. And I did it just to insure that I don't overheat the RV's tranny; there's a tendency to use the Overdrive whenever possible and the downside of that is the potential to overheat the ATF in OD.

Where'd you get the sensor for that location? I'm really mostly looking to keep an eye on my rebuilt transmission - after sinking $2400 into it last January I figure a $50 gauge is cheap insurance. I was looking at the Cyberdyne gauge at www.egauges.com.
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Well the SVX trannies always did have a problem with over heating. From skirting other boards it seems that even on mountaain roads the max that people have seen is 200 degrees, 210 if they beat on it. The tranny fluid temp sensor has two purposes (too bad we cant tap into that) Aside from the over heating warning, it also keeps the car from locking up in drive untill the tranny is fully wamed up. That setting is dictated by the tranny fluid temp and not the engine temp, which taking form the post, can take as much as ten miles if its a really cold day.

 

 

As far as to which coolant line is th hot side, any tranny shop or anywhere that can do a tranny flush will tell you thr flow. I would guess it would follow the same as the raditor, hot water goes in the thermostat side of the raditor, cold water out the other. I would think the tranny cooler in the radiator would follow the same thing

 

 

nipper

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Just to correct my earlier post:

 

I bought a gauge and sensor at the local B&B Auto Parts store (local to the

Seattle area only I think), but it was manufactured by B&M Racing &

Performance Products LLC, Chatsworth CA 91311 (www.bmracing.com). It was a

model #80212. Pretty basic gauge with hardware, fittings, wire (not really

enough if you want to completely wire it in with internal lighting and such.

It comes with two T-fittings (5/16" and 3/8") for the two most common steel

outlet lines. I paid $59.95 plus tax for it.

 

(Sometimes it pays to never erase your old emails; I cut and pasted this from the Toyotamotorhomes site that I frequent)

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As far as to which coolant line is th hot side, any tranny shop or anywhere that can do a tranny flush will tell you thr flow. I would guess it would follow the same as the raditor, hot water goes in the thermostat side of the raditor, cold water out the other. I would think the tranny cooler in the radiator would follow the same thing

 

 

nipper

I cheated; disconnected one line at the cooler and had my wife start the car and put it in neutral; pretty obvious which is which, expecially if the line starts pumping fluid out (put a drain pan underneath it just in case). In this case the inlet/outlet tubes run vertically instead of horizontally for the engine coolent.

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Well the SVX trannies always did have a problem with over heating. From skirting other boards it seems that even on mountaain roads the max that people have seen is 200 degrees, 210 if they beat on it.

 

 

nipper

 

That's only people who have an externally mounted gauge. Mine in the pan is usually about 100 degrees above the outside temp with no ac and 105 with ac. That is with my typical garage queen driving as I've only put about 3k on it in the past 3 years. Highest I got was 217 while sitting in traffic on 95 on a 100 degree day. I've never beat on the tranny either so I know I could easily take it up to 250 with a couple of autoxes 5 minutes apart.

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On the transmission case thare are several diagnostic pressure taps with tapered plugs. One of them might be good place for a temperature sensor. Actually, there's already a sensor inside the transmission. It's used by TCU. It should be possible to measure the temperature simply by reading the sensor voltage, but a custom circuit would likely be needed.

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The tranny oil pan based sensor gives you a slower, average and lower reading. The line sensor gives you max oil temp and shows you quicker temp spikes.

I have mine in the line. Fast driving is up to 160F (i have a medium sized tranny cooler). Towing, especially when hilly, spikes the temp to 210-220F easily. I use synth ATF BTW.

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The tranny oil pan based sensor gives you a slower, average and lower reading. The line sensor gives you max oil temp and shows you quicker temp spikes.

I have mine in the line. Fast driving is up to 160F (i have a medium sized tranny cooler). Towing, especially when hilly, spikes the temp to 210-220F easily. I use synth ATF BTW.

 

Could you describe how you installed it in the line? I haven't looked at the fluid lines to the radiator so I don't know how big they are, and I also don't know how big these sensors typically are...

 

I just switched my car over to Specialty Formulations Autoglide ATF, a semi-synth, high quality fluid that's about $5/qt after shipping. Shifting is greatly improved over the dino ATF the tranny shop put in, especially on those chilly mornings.

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My guage came with the hardware and included two T-fittings and the sensor went into the center of the "T". Compression fittings for the other two legs matched the steel tubing running to the front cooler. The idea was to cut the tubing at a convenient spot and install the "T" and the sensor. Then all that was left was the wiring up to the guage. I wasn't too keen on cutting the tubing in case I didn't like the results, so I installed it with rubber ATF hose in the front and short sections of copper tubing for the compression fittings. That complicated things a bit on the install and since I'm pleased with the result, I'll be re-installing it the "right" way this spring.

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