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Get me the defibrilators....STAT!!!(GL-10 troubles)


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I think my GL-10 is going to die. Either that or it is in desperate need of life support. I left my GL-10 in the care of one of my trusted friends as I know that he will take care of it. My Dad was originally watching the car, but said that he will be unable to(long story, don't ask). I was kinda relieved to get it away from my Dad as he is notorious for not taking care of vehicles like he should. He won't even check the oil in the car, so I made sure to change the oil before I left for Okinawa. Well, back to the story, my friend had just taken the car down to the exhaust shop to get the passenger side flange rewelded and spun 90 degrees after an exhaust bolt broke off into the head. I had to take the stock manifold off after the turbo mounting flange decided to seperate from the manifold piping. So my friend agreed to take it down to the exhaust shop and have everything fixed. Well, he got that fixed, put back together and was on his way to his job(cruising at 68mph) when he said he noticed that the speed was dropping rapidly(68, then 56, then 40 something, then 30 something, then 20 something, and then it died). He started freaking out thinking that he had killed the car. Well, he cranks the thing back up and it runs and idles just fine, but he said that there is a very loud metal on metal sound. So he called one of his coworkers and had him tow the car to his work and then home. His friend gave the engine a listen upon his arrival and said that it sounds like a broken valve. Now as you can guess, this really sucks for me since I am back in Okinawa and have no way to really get a good grasp on how loud the noise is and where exactly it is coming from. Does anyone have any idea what could possibly be the problem? Could it be bearings? Is it possible that the oil pump took a crap? Would it just be better to get another engine? I don't want to have to shell out any money until I have a very good idea as to what in Hadaes is wrong with it. If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it. Suggestions are very welcome. Thank You all for any help that you can render. May GOD Bless You All!!!

 

Patrick

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The more I think about it, the more I think it might be the oil pump. Do our cars have the safety shutoff when the oil pressure gets too low?

 

No such thing on Subarus. They do that on large diesel engines, but probably because they cost twenty times as much as a subaru to replace.

 

Have you personally talked to the guy that said it was a broken valve? You might be able to figure out a lot more if you get in touch with him.

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My friend was saying yesterday that the sound is coming from the passenger side head only. In theory, if the spring broke, wouldn't it cause the valve lifters to collapse and not open the valves as much, thus finally causing the engine to die? If so, then now I have to go through the trouble to find new springs and have them replaced. It sounds like the lifters are tapping(oil starvation). He let me hear it over the phone a few minutes ago.

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My friend was saying yesterday that the sound is coming from the passenger side head only. In theory, if the spring broke, wouldn't it cause the valve lifters to collapse and not open the valves as much, thus finally causing the engine to die? If so, then now I have to go through the trouble to find new springs and have them replaced. It sounds like the lifters are tapping(oil starvation). He let me hear it over the phone a few minutes ago.

 

I don't know if it would go so far as to keep the car from running, but losing oil pressure in one head would cause lifter noise and potentially not lubricate the cam enough, which would explain the metal on metal sound.

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I would have the compression checked for a clue to the problem.

 

Well, I would but here is the kicker. It isn't blowing any kind of smoke out of the tailpipe whatsoever. The car has plenty of power from what I was told, it just has a loud metal on metal sound while the engine is running which kinda leads me to believe that it is some sort of oiling problem. I am almost ready to just give up on the thing, but I keep thinking about how much work that I have put into it and it kinda keeps me clinging to a thread of hope. It is really hard for me to diagnose this problem since I am not right there to put hands on the car and see what exactly the problem is. Does anyone know where to purchase the springs from?

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Well, I would but here is the kicker. It isn't blowing any kind of smoke out of the tailpipe whatsoever. The car has plenty of power from what I was told, it just has a loud metal on metal sound while the engine is running which kinda leads me to believe that it is some sort of oiling problem. I am almost ready to just give up on the thing, but I keep thinking about how much work that I have put into it and it kinda keeps me clinging to a thread of hope. It is really hard for me to diagnose this problem since I am not right there to put hands on the car and see what exactly the problem is. Does anyone know where to purchase the springs from?

 

I bought some from the dealer. They should have them in stock.

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Try the compression check first, this can tell you a lot. If the compression is really low in one cylinder then it may be a valve problem. If it is only a little low in one cylinder then it may be a spun rod bearing. From what your friend said, it sounded like a bearing. So I wouldn't do any more running tests to keep from doing any more damage. You might want to just park it until you get back from the Rock.

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I guess pulling the valve cover will show the problem up. If it is a broken valve, there may be damage to the piston also.

 

AAaaahhhh!!!!! Glen, don't say that!! I have to think positive! I have to think positive!!:D LOL

 

That is true. I should be able to tell what the heck the deal is by removing the valve cover. I am going to continue hoping and praying that it is only something simple like the spring. I will also have my friend take the spark plugs out on the passenger side and see what he can see, if anything. I was able to see only a small portion of the inside of the combustion chamber when I replaced my plugs a while back. So maybe he will be able to see enough to tell if there is damage to the pistons. I will also see if I can get him to run a compression check on it as well. Maybe that will tell the tale.

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Try the compression check first, this can tell you a lot. If the compression is really low in one cylinder then it may be a valve problem. If it is only a little low in one cylinder then it may be a spun rod bearing. From what your friend said, it sounded like a bearing. So I wouldn't do any more running tests to keep from doing any more damage. You might want to just park it until you get back from the Rock.

Yeah, I told him not to go out and drive it, much less start the stupid thing until I figure out what the heck is wrong with it. I think it will just wind up being something for me to fix in my spare time on my next vacation to the states(man it sounds weird saying that, vacation to the states!).

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UPDATE: Okay. My friend called me early this morning and told me that he removed the valve covers from both sides of the motor. He told me he looked around on the passenger side head first and everything looked perfect, nothing seemed out of place. So he reinstalled the valve cover and turned his attention to the drivers side head. Upon removing the valve cover from the drivers side, he said that there was a very strong smell of gasoline. What the heck does this mean? Has anyone ever had this problem or experienced this situation? If so, what did you do to fix it? Please help, this situation is getting really desperate and I really don't want to have to fork out $1700+ dollars for a rebuilt motor, but I will if I absolutely have to. If anyone thinks that this may be a losing battle, please speak now.

 

Patrick

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I will try to pull them on my next visit to the States. I guess I'll have to send them out to RC Engineering to have them cleaned and inspected. But what could be making the metal to metal sound?

 

Let me ask this question. How hard is it to rebuild on of these bad boys? I have never rebuilt a Subaru motor before so I just want to know what I'm getting myself into if I decide to go this route. If anyone has tips or pointers, please share.

 

Patrick

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Did you ever get a compression test done? The fuel smell might just be from the hose going to the PCV. Not totally sure if the hose on the left valve cover goes to the PCV on your car or not, it does on mine, but mine isn't turboed. The way the car kept slowing down more and more on your freind, makes me think bearing failure. I realy hate to say that but, I've seen this movie many times before. A compression test, while not conclusive, can help in a diagnosis. Best to check a lot of things and then examine your findings. As far as rebuilding one of these engines, not too bad, as long as you have the tools. I've rebuilt a lot of different types of engines over the years and Subaru engines are realy cool. I like 'em.

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No, he hasn't done a compression check as of yet. I'll tell him about it again. I am thinking more and more about just ripping it apart and rebuilding it. It will have to wait awhile though. But when I take it apart, I can put some goodies in that should help out in the power and longevity department. At least with a fresh rebuild, I can feel a little more confident about being able to drive it and stuff not breaking every couple of weeks. So in short, I guess the saying is true. GOD Does Work In Mysterious Ways!!!! Now I just have to save up the cash to buy the internal engine goodies that I want to add, not to mention the rebuild kit. Hey, maybe by the time that I get ready for my rebuild, Will might have heard back from ARP on those head studs and maybe some company will have produced some a stamped steel head gasket for our engines. Well Thanks to everyone for all the replies. My spirits are now lifted and I am ready to take on this challenge.

 

Patrick

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I don't know if I would tackle a rebuild on a Roo... It is not a small-block Chevy.. By the time you actually find and pay for all the necessary parts, you migh be better off getting a rebuilt. CCR will ship a complete rebuilt long block from Co. for about $1K plus shipping.. I plan to get one next spring and swap it out with mine..

 

Another option is a used EA82... You can find them all over with "advertised" low miles for under $800..

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