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1.8L turbo mods?


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i am in the process of tryin to figure out what i could do to my car to make it fast, i know it isn't a greatly modified car, so anything at all would help, regarding suspension, drivetrain, engine, exhaust, fuel and air, anything.

 

any and all help greatly appreciated.

 

mike(subaru hotrodder in training)

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I wouldn't be the one to ask for specifics, but i can tell you this, more air in, more power out.

 

There is a company that makes a better header, which would help you get the turbo spooled better, and you can even have it made to accept the wrx turbo, which then would allow you to run the wrx exhaust, which is a marked improvement.

 

Getting an Intercooler will also help a lot, everything from the legacy air water cooler, Saab air to air ford T-bird, and the WRX have been used.

 

depending on what year your car is, flapper door or hot wire, there is a fuel cutout preventer. The stock computer cuts fuel when boost gets too high. there is a way to delay or prevent this so you can increase the boost to a more respectable level.

 

Since you have a turbo, i'll assume you either have an RX an XT or a GL-10, if you don't you are in the wrong forum.

 

Apparantly the RX front springs are the best for handleing, as far as rears i think that the GL-10's are the best, and the XT-6 has the best sway bars.

 

A good tune up will do wonders, and you should be able to advance your timing a few degrees, but make sure to avoid detonation, or bye bye motor.

 

Wheels leave you with only a few options, the Peugeot wheels, the 504 and the 505 models but avoid the 390's they are 15.3 inches. with the non 390's you can run a lower profile wheel on a 14 or 15 inch rim, and there are some alloys so you can even save weight.

 

 

Speaking of saving weight, every 10 pounds you remove from the car you "gain" a horsepower, so make the car lighter if you can, get rid of all that junk in the trunk.

 

I think i covered as much as i know.

 

Good Luck

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thnx all, will atempt all that i can tomorrow as per research on parts, and and see what i can drag up, i already have my MSD blaster 2 coil installed, and goin to install my K&N filter as well.

 

thnx all

 

 

mike

 

Hate to say it, but the coil and the filter will get you maybe 1 hp tops. Real gains cost Real money. Not trying to discourage you, but want you to know that when you start with a car that has 125 horsepower With a turbo, unless you throw money at it your not gonna break any records.

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Talk to WJM. He has tried just about everything out there for modifying the EA82T, and his RX is certainly one of the fastest I've heard of. Off the top of my head, others to contact would be Subarutex, JWX, BoostedBalls, Oddcomp, and Skip.

 

I guess I don't talk about mine enough :(

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i have an a/r .48 garrett sitting on my computer desk that i need to get rebuilt, thinking that might be a good unit to mate to a custom manifold.

 

mike

 

what? I've got a .82 A/R I could install....that'd be sw333333333333t....lol

 

basically....you need to set a budget on the car....THEN, we can go thru a list of what you can do to the car.

 

Otherwise, just like any WRX or STi...sky is the limit.

 

Power

Reliability

Cost

 

Pick TWO.

 

I have gone for cost and reliability...most of the time....i tried to mix power in and made decent power but reliability was iffy...eventho I never suffered any kind of failure...decent power being 165hp/225tq at the wheels. (~240/320 crank)

 

Right now, mysetup:

 

TechWorks Engineering EA82T Header and Downpipe for the stock turbo (header fits ANY IHI/Mitsu turbo deisned as bolt on upgrades for WRX-STi, DP is specific for the stock VF7 only)

 

A custom intake featuring JDM Straws.

 

Toyota Celica ST-165 Air-Water Intercooler unit.

 

STOCK boost.

 

2.5" from the downpipe back w/no cat and just a large resonator. Sounds great.

 

It puts down 130hp/130tq at stock boost in the cold weather. Normally its ~115/140. (dunno why the TQ varies w/temp as compared to the HP)

 

Right now the real weakpoints for these engines are the headgaskets and lack of fuel to run more than 11PSI of boost safely for long ammounts of time. any more than 12 psi results in a lean condition which means BOOM goes the headgasket...or a hole in the piston....I've NEVER had piston issues....but I've ran into headgasket problems.....ever since I've been careful about the boost and not letting it run lean...ive not had any problems.

 

Once you can get the right amount of fuel in per boost...and no detonation on good gas...I think the headgaskets are fine as long as the rest of the engine is in a really good state of operation....the cooling system is MOST important.

 

Right now I am in the process of talking to SOA to try and convince SOJ to make the mulitlayer metal headgaskets for the EA82 and ER27...as they already make them for ALL of the EJxxx/EG33D/EZ30x engines...

 

I am waiting to hear back from ARP about head studs....the stockers wont hold more than about 85~95 ft-lbs before breaking/stripping the block...and we should really run 105 on a stud that doesnt stretch on the stock gasket so it'll hold above 19 psi....so far no luck. The EJxxx ARP set is WAY too long even for the long bolts...and the EVO studs are 1/2 inch too short for even the short bolts. :banghead:

 

Otherwise, the first place to start for power is a conefilter on the MAF, catless exhaust and no muffler. Even with the stock DP w/out cat...and a 2.25~2.5 inch off the stock DP, the car makes good power over stock.

 

an intercooler is a MUST....a good one has 30tq gain over stock...no HP until you add bost. Again, DO NOT go over 11 psi unless you add more fuel with larger injectors or an extra one.

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