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Brakes on a GL?


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I'm glad you guys are helping me out, so I have another question. When I got in the GL the other day to start it, I put my foot on the brake pedal and it went all the way to the floor, opened the reservoir, and there was definately no fluid, a little wet, but no fluid. That means a brake line has gone bye bye.

 

My question is, is it difficult to replace lines? And does anybody make prebent for an 80's Subie?

 

The water pump project looks like it has turned in to a brake project, and sometime in the future, a clutch project. :banghead:

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Brake lines usually aren't too bad to replace, unless the fittings are really rusted, in which case some good penetrating oil helps.

 

Not sure about prebent lines, but I kind of doubt it. Maybe from the dealer?

 

It could also be something else leaking, like a caliper or the hillholder valve (I hear that's common on these cars).

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More than likely you wont have to worry about the metal brake lines, its probably just one of the flexable ones gone. Either see if a parts shop has them in the correct length (should do), or there are places that custon make them to any length.

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Leaky hill-holder, wheel cylinder, or caliper will drain the resevoir. So will a leaky line for that matter. Just with vehicle sitting, not being driven.

 

Look for signs of wetness on the inside of the tires, if one is wet, there's your leaker. Same for the H-H valve, if it's wet, it be leaking.

 

If you don't see any thing on the tires, put some fluid in the MC, and have someone work the brake pedal while you look under the car for any leaks.

 

Steel lines will rust thru. The ones for the rear brakes run thru the inside of the car, behind the (heater blower on the PS), kick panels and under the door sill trim, one on each side. There is a coupling at both ends, one just before it enters thru the firewall, one where it exits the back of the rear floor.

 

Having to do the DS one inside of the car will be a major PITA with having to work around the pedals and steering column. Trust me on that one, didn't replace it, but pulled all of the lines out of the BRAT when I scrapped it.. I cheated there and pulled column and pedals out 1st. I did replace the PS line on my old '86 BRAT.

 

There is a short line, after the line exits the back of the car, it in turn goes to the flex line on the trailing arm, then another short line to the wheel cylinder. I used pre-made lines for the repairs, had to use 2 lines to make the run thru the inside as I didn't find any long enough. I ordered the flexlines thru NAPA, right around $100.00 for all 4 of them.

 

Steel lines are easy to bend by hand, and very easy to kink too. Slow steady bending is the key. You won't match the factory bends exactly, but you can get them close. I have yet to find a tubing bender that will make some of those tight radius bends you find from the factory. Also, a line to long with a loop bent into it, is way better than using a line that is to short. Bend the loop in the line so it is sideways rather than up/down and as close to a support bracket as you can get it.

 

You bleed the brakes using the X pattern, DS rear/PS front- PS rear/DS front. Keep an eye on the fluid level as you bleed, you don't want to get air in there from it getting to low, and have to start bleeding the system again.

 

Good luck.....

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