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92 legacy timing belt tensioner pully bolt break?? need help


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Today i was at my buddies house working on his 92 subaru legacy got it all apart preety fast with minimal problems as soon as we pulled the crank shaft pully off i noticed that the pully rubbed thru the timing belt cover and rubbed the pully so much and baddly that the pully is ruined then we pulled of the timing cover and i saw that the tensioner pully looked like it had really bad bearings but here the bolt for it broke off any suggestions on what to do i want some ideas on what to do before i get hacking away at it seems like i have a really big mess on my hands??? pls help i would respect it

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<<here the bolt for it broke off any suggestions on what to do i want some ideas on what to do before i get hacking away at it seems like i have a really big mess on my hands???>>

 

how did the bolt break? was it already broke or did you snap it. please post pics.

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the bolt was already snapped when i pulled the timing cover off the tensioner pully fell off we didnt do this to that soobie we bought it for 100 bucks and i knew all it needed was a timing belt it wore so bad that it was only a 1/2 of an inch wide and it didnt break of flush with the engine block it is in there some

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I agree on the easy-out. If you're not familiar with the process, you need to get a hole centered in the broken bolt for the easy-out to go into. The broken end is rarely flat, usually a prick punch is best to start the hole, then a center punch to enlarge the small dent, then a small, sharp drill to make a pilot hole. Follow that with a drill appropriate for the easy-out you've selected. The easy-out is a left-hand, tapered spiral that digs in as you turn it left, which should unscrew the broken piece. I'd soak that broken piece in penetrating oil as soon as possible and let it soak a while. I prefer PB Blaster or Kroil, but anything will help. If you break off the hardened easy-out in the hole you've got a real mess, as you can't drill through the hardened easy-out with most drills. Good luck!

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Did the bolt break flush with the block? Or did it break further out? If it broke further out, you might be able to grab ahold of it with pliers or something and work it out.

 

I've broken several bolts, and I've never drilled them out or anything. I always find a way to work them out, then I don't have to re-tap the threads.

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i can't stress enough that i would not use an easy out here....someone in another thread (the one about the ball joint i think)...just broke one. they break all the time and don't work for crap when i've used them. a bolt that an easy out works on will come out via other methods...like subylvr just mentioned. you do not want an easy out to shear off in your engine. they do all the time, i can take a picture of one that's been hanging for 2 years from my fuel pump bracket under my car that i can't get out after it sheared off in the rusted bolt i was trying to remove. everyone that i've bought has broken...like 6 and finally decided never to use one again, though i have one "just in case" and hope i never use it. i have a really cheap drill with little power and the clutches in it slip too so it's not like i'm overpowering them with the drill that's for sure.

 

i think he said it didn't break flush with the block...i assume he means the only part left is inside the block?

 

i would try loads of penetrating oil (liquid wrench or PB blaster, don't bother using WD40 in place of these). if you have any access to it at all, try to cut a slot in the end to use a flat bladed screwdriver to back it out. if that doesn't work i'd try a left handed drill bit to back it out with the assumption that i might have to helicoil it. in which case you'd need a right angle drill to drill it out, tap and insert the helicoils. i have helicoiled timing belt bolts before. it's annoying, but possible. i rented a right angle drill the one time i had to do it in the car.

 

i've heard and know of instances where people have JB welded or locktighted bolts in place, so i'd be suspicious of that if it's really hard to get out.

 

if it's a bolt that screws into the head another horrible option i hate to mention is replacing that head. but might be easier than taking it to a shop if you can't get it out.

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The tensioner pully does not bolt directly to the block. It threads into a cast aluminum bracket that is bolted to the block. Pulling the bracket off the block will make removing the broken bolt alot easier or you can just replace with junkyard parts since you need a crank pully, timing belt covers, ect. Good Luck.

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The tensioner pully does not bolt directly to the block. It threads into a cast aluminum bracket that is bolted to the block. Pulling the bracket off the block will make removing the broken bolt alot easier or you can just replace with junkyard parts since you need a crank pully, timing belt covers, ect. Good Luck.

 

Exactly

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thanks for all the help guys i drilled it out with a left handed drill not like your usual drill that turns clock wise this one to work turns counter clock wise i figured that if it would bit it would take it out and if not then i would try the easy out well it did bite and turned it out most of the way then it stoped so i drilled it some more used an easy out and it came right out i was so lucky but now i need to get a new timing cover tensioner pullys new main pully for the alt and power steer and air thnks for all the help

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