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Seafoam?


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Whats this seafoam stuff i keep hearin about? i have never seen the stuf or heard about it till i startin snoopon randdom posts!

It is, (from what I can gather), an oil additive designed to give lifters/lash adjusters a 'new lease on life'...

'Every body has them, (countries I mean:D), just with different names....

if I told you the best ones are basically light grade kerosine would you believe me?? LOL!

 

 

Cheers

 

Sixpack

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friend of mine's dad used to be a mechanic and he said his dad would drain the oil, fill with kerosene and run it for a few minutes, then drain and refill with oil. i never believed him....but after reading this maybe he really did, and maybe that's why he "used" to be a mechanic?

 

lots of seafoam info on the boards...use the search button to get as much info about it as you care to read.

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friend of mine's dad used to be a mechanic and he said his dad would drain the oil, fill with kerosene and run it for a few minutes, then drain and refill with oil. i never believed him....but after reading this maybe he really did, and maybe that's why he "used" to be a mechanic?

 

lots of seafoam info on the boards...use the search button to get as much info about it as you care to read.

 

I can understand adding kerosene or diesel or other such products to the motor oil, but I dont think it'd be good for the engine to run for more than a couple seconds without any oil... but you'd probably get a majority of the crap out of there in very short order, definately will clog your already clogged oil filter :lol:

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Seafoam is a good solvent, pure and simple. It is basically a light-grade kerosene base with some really good detergent additives in it. It can be used in the crankcase, fuel tank, PCV (through a vaccuum line) or right into the intake. Personally, I don't use it in my oil because I REALLY don't like having my oil thinned down that much. However, I do use it in the fuel tank, the PCV system and I have poured it right down the carb's throat before. Does a Screamin' job of cleaning out the gungy buildup that collects in your intake manifold and PCV hoses.

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As an old frt myself, back in the 60's a mechanic showed me how they would clean sticking lifters, etc. by putting a solvent called Varsol in after draining the old oil. Idle for 5-10 minutes, drain and fill with new oil. I tried it in a 63 Ford. It worked, and Varsol is still around these days, but engines are a lot different.

 

 

friend of mine's dad used to be a mechanic and he said his dad would drain the oil, fill with kerosene and run it for a few minutes, then drain and refill with oil. i never believed him....but after reading this maybe he really did, and maybe that's why he "used" to be a mechanic?

 

lots of seafoam info on the boards...use the search button to get as much info about it as you care to read.

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ok so i can put this ************ anywhere? gas, oil, brakes, what else? i can get the ************ for like 3 bucks a bottle mu cost so i think i might try it out! is it cool to put a whole bottle in and run it for 5000 highway miles like i normally do between oil changes or should i run it for a shorter amount of time? i dont want to mess anything up! my car hs 347000 on her now so i dont want to put anything on her thats to harsh!

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unless seafoam is more like mmo.... most solvents that have kerosene/diesel base that are very effective, usually are only to be used for 3-5 minutes at IDLE, no revving or racing the engine, and IMEDIATELY drained from the engine after shut down, and then fresh oil put in along with oil filter..(this crap will clog your oil filter like no other btw...)

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In an engine with 300K + miles on it, I would not use seafoam in the crankcase. Intake, sure, but not the crankcase. Use ATF instead. It is much more gentle on old seals than a straight up solvent. If you MUST use it in the crankcase, use the following procedure to ensure that you get ALL of the solvent out.

 

1) Go to your favorite parts store and purchase two oil filters (a cheap one and a good one) and a case of motor oil.

 

2) Perform an oil change as you normally would using the cheap filter.

 

3) After filling the crankcase, run the car long enough to warm up the oil. Add a can of Seafoam.

 

4) Follow the instructions on the can for proper run time. Should be approximately 5-10 minutes at idle.

 

5) Turn the engine off and let it sit long enough for the oil to drain back into the pan. Don't let it cool all the way down. Just a minute or two should be fine.

 

6) Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Replace the drain plug, but leave the filter off.

 

7) Pour a quart of oil into the filler tube. This will have a tendency to help pick up any bits of stuff that may be left in the engine.

 

8) Drain the pan again.

 

9) Complete your oil change as normal.

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ok so i can put this ************ anywhere? gas, oil, brakes, what else? i can get the ************ for like 3 bucks a bottle mu cost so i think i might try it out! is it cool to put a whole bottle in and run it for 5000 highway miles like i normally do between oil changes or should i run it for a shorter amount of time? i dont want to mess anything up! my car hs 347000 on her now so i dont want to put anything on her thats to harsh!

 

I'd avoid the brakes. It's best just to put brake fluid in your system.

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yeah if you put anything else in youir master cylinder other then brake fluid you will be looking at some very expensive repair cost ( i.e. everything with rubber seals will have to be replaced-master, hoses,calipers/wheel cylinders, prop valve and anything else.), brake fluid is the only thing that should go in the brake system. what jeffast123 was refering to was the vacuum line going to your brake booster from the engine, thats the hose going to the black canister behind your brake master cylinder.

I'd avoid the brakes. It's best just to put brake fluid in your system.
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ya sry thats how you put it in when you have to bypass the maf you pull the line off the brake master cylinder and stick the line in seafoam untill the engine stalls

 

DO NOT PUT ANYTING BUT BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR MASTER CYLINDER AND THE TRANNY ADDITIVE IS A SEPERATE PRODUCT

sorry about that kinda skipped a groove when i wrote it

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