So...got this nifty 30-4223 gauge for xmas...

http://www.importperformance.com/prod/30-4223

 

And this nifty 30-2300 dual channel uego controller for cheap(cheap as in it was laying around the shop)...

http://www.importperformance.com/page/IP/PROD/AEM-UEGO/30-2300

 

and I 'found' two spare UEGO sensors...but they are toast as I found out, so I ordered a new 30-2001 from AEM, should be here next Tuesday...

 

So, ive got everything installed, and both the sensors read only the 'narrow' range...14.2 to 15.2 AFR's....effectively, they are toast. So, when the new one gets here, I'll post up what the RX runs for its REAL LIFE AFRs on the street............

 

That also means that when i get the MegaSquirt back and install it...I'll be able to REALLY use the wideband auto tune feature for cruise...and beable to log REAL AFRs on logging runs.

 

Pics of the install to come when the new sensor gets here and I confirm that the whole setup is reading properly.

 

Right now I am using the bung I made for the MS tuning sessions for the UEGO setup...its welded in right before the bend to go down and out to the rest of the exh system on the TWE downpipe...If I have to have TWO sensors to make the controller work...I'll just weld in another one right beside it.

No one?

 

Interesting how the stock ECU cruises at 15.5~17.0 AFR.

I have a Tech Edge WB unit I bought as a DIY kit. www.wbo2.com Was fun to put together. It's installed in my turbo Dodge. Also has 8 channels of datalogging. Haven't gotten much use out of it yet, snowed in til next year.

 

That's a fairly lean cruise. Good for fuel economy, but bad for emissions if your area tests for that. You've free air calibrated the unit etc? My TD car cruises within 0.1 of 14.7 (still using the stock O2, not emulated).

 

How close to the head did you install the bung? If it's too close the sensor can overheat and give false readings. They want to be at a steady 900F. Mine is about 20-25" downstream of the turbo.

very nice Will. I am too planning on picking up a LM-1 wideband so I can get te RX totally dialed in. One I get the MS in there, should be a lot easier to get tuned as well. Now I got to upgrade a few fuel things after I get the setup tuned in with stock boost....

The sensor is about 4 inches from the turbo on the 'cool' side of things....thats about 20~25 inches from the head(s)...

 

The AEM doesnt require of provide for open air calibration...all of that is done already from the factory, and when the sensor is toast, its toast. On normal pump gas, with it seeing the 'prescribed' heat range...its said to last atleast 80,000km....aka 49,720.3231821006836544437538844..... miles.

 

I can tell that the stock O2 sensor is toast until it gets heated up...and even then its sorta slow to respond. When my new AEM sensor gets here, I'll replace the one thats on the OEGO currently, which is a used one that takes about 20 mins to start working at all. Then, I'll send a 0-1v signal from the UEGO controller to the stock ECU so it'll run off the UEGO controller and sensor for its stock O2 sensor readings...and then I'll truly get to see just how the stock ECU does with closed loop fueling...and what it does under boost.

 

As for emissions...I dont care. IF i had to do emissions, it'll be one of two situations: 1. Idle test only, it'll pass when i install a 3 way cat(OR pass when I install a 'fake cat' pipe and tune the MS to pass emissions at idle w/out a cat in the exhaust. Its been one before.). 2. Calif style emissions...stock exhaust reinstalled, but since its an AWD car, emissions waived due to lack of AWD emissions dyno.

Cool... I've had the LM-1 for a couple months. Its nice. I installed it about 6" from the turbo on the downpipe.

 

my car cruises about 14.7-15

 

under boost starts 10, drops to 9... then gradually leans out to 11's at the leanest.

The AEM doesnt require of provide for open air calibration...all of that is done already from the factory, and when the sensor is toast, its toast. On normal pump gas, with it seeing the 'prescribed' heat range...its said to last atleast 80,000km....aka 49,720.3231821006836544437538844..... miles.

 

What sensor does it use? Bosch? NTK? I haven't heard of a sensor that doesn't require calibration. Also, don't run the car without the UEGO heater plugged in, it'll foul the sensor in 10 minutes. The heater draws about 2.5 amps cold and levels off at about 1 when running.

The heater is always plugged up. It has to be, or the system doesnt work. Its really simple...12v switched for each the gauge and uego controller, a ground....plug the sensor into the harness (has a locking plug on the harness) and put the gauge somewhere....done!

 

Its a Bosch sensor....

 

I cant find the link, but each sensor has its own special resistor calibrated to the sensor....idk, i cant remember the details. I thought it was strange as well, but Doug here at Top Speed is an AEM Master Tech and Tuner, and he said it works 100%. We install them all the time and they work great. We've logged them on dyno runs against the DynoJet's wideband(The onboard Dyno wideband sensor), and they read within 0.1% of each other.

The heater is always plugged up. It has to be, or the system doesnt work. Its really simple...12v switched for each the gauge and uego controller, a ground....plug the sensor into the harness (has a locking plug on the harness) and put the gauge somewhere....done!

 

Yeah, if it's hard wired, great. I only mention it because I use a tiny racing battery and since the heater draws so much current, if I'm doing anything like programming the ECM in the garage with the key on run, it will kill the battery in minutes. I have mine setup with an extra cigarette lighter socket I wired in under the console so I can move the 2A0 to another car easily, or disconnect the LSU while I program. The gauge is a 4 digit digital unit that is velcroed to the dash for the same reason. All I need to sniff another car is a bung in the exhaust.

 

 

 

Its a Bosch sensor....

 

I cant find the link, but each sensor has its own special resistor calibrated to the sensor....idk, i cant remember the details. I thought it was strange as well, but Doug here at Top Speed is an AEM Master Tech and Tuner, and he said it works 100%. We install them all the time and they work great. We've logged them on dyno runs against the DynoJet's wideband(The onboard Dyno wideband sensor), and they read within 0.1% of each other.

 

Yeah, new. But as the sensor ages is where the recalibration comes in. Also accounts for different altitudes, etc. Perhaps your brain box does it's own compensation and calibration internally.

 

The TechEdge guys are really knowledgeable about WB units. Their site contains a lot of excellent information, even circuit diagrams of all of their stuff. The Bosch LSU page:

 

http://www.wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm

 

The one negative thing I can say about the TE units is that the logging software is crude and clunky, but I can write my own. They've published the protocols. It logs 8 channels including 3 thermocouple/EGTs and 3 0-5V inputs, RPM and WB. They also give excellent after-sale support.

We use a Wideband to check our cars, and tune and so on.

 

cruise at 14.7-15.0 is not uncommon at all.

 

I think we are all guilty of it...but i believe we should have the sensor further from the turbo outlet. I remember reading someplace that something like 12 inches is best, as the exhaust is flowing straighter and there is less turbulance, yielding a better reading.

 

Regardless we always aim for low to mid 11's for AFR's when WOT. Any leaner and you are in trouble, any richer...you are just giving up power, and pissing expensive fuel out the tailpipe

WJM: Dunno if you got a manual for that unit, but it's here online.

 

 

http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=4208&sid=ddad7a6491168e5b5067293995a98d7e

 

It's a bit messed, right click on the download link and save the file then rename it to something.PDF.

 

I see what you were talking about with the resistor. I'm somewhat skeptical that can compensate for an aging sensor though. It's probably a thermistor with a trim pot.

 

Wow, the dual unit draws 2.6As nominal for the two sensors, probably 5-6A on cold startup! Definitely can't leave the car on Run for any length of time.

 

The manual says 30-36" from the exhaust port. I believe turbo suby turbo headers are pretty long, so it sounds like you should be fine. You've probably cut the cats off by now, right? A stock cat can cause 8-9psi of back pressure on a high boost turbo car, particularly with a small exhaust.

Yeah, i had to DL that to install the thing...I got mine slightly used. The gauge was new tho.

 

As for the aging sensor part....if it didnt work correctly, I dont think AEM would make it that way....they dont exactly make cheap stuff. *shrug*

 

I do have a full catless exhaust. 2.5 all the way back from the TWE downpipe.

As for the aging sensor part....if it didnt work correctly, I dont think AEM would make it that way....they dont exactly make cheap stuff. *shrug*

 

LOL you have far too much faith in ricer parts. Expensive doesn't necessarily equal quality. They probably just figured the minor hassle of doing a recalibration periodically wouldn't fly with the average joe. At least the sensors aren't too expensive, I think they were $67 from Summit.

Yep. Well, I dont consider what REAL tuners use for tuning big power cars ricer parts.

Here's an less expensive alternative for those who want wideband, but don't want to spend as much $.

Innovate is a bit cheaper than those - $349 on the LM1, and $199 on the LC1.

 

I have the LM1 in my turbo neon. Getting the LC1 for the GL.

I passed on the LM1 because I couldn't see myself reading the display at all while moving.

 

I did a lot of research on WB before buying and I found that most kits satisfied the "basics" for WB tuning, but where they varied quite widely was in the "perks" like datalogging. Look closely at the software they provide, # channels they can datalog, etc. Some also give you more information than others about the health of the sensor, status of the heater, etc. Very important if you're trying to figure out whether the readings are real, or the sensor has gone bad.

The output of my LM1 goes to my turbo timer which displays A/F and yes the stock LM display is too small. But it does does datalog five channels. The XD-1 for $399 has a better display.

 

 

Personally, I would get the LC-1 for $199 and add a display for a total price of $250-300.

 

 

I passed on the LM1 because I couldn't see myself reading the display at all while moving.

 

I did a lot of research on WB before buying and I found that most kits satisfied the "basics" for WB tuning, but where they varied quite widely was in the "perks" like datalogging. Look closely at the software they provide, # channels they can datalog, etc. Some also give you more information than others about the health of the sensor, status of the heater, etc. Very important if you're trying to figure out whether the readings are real, or the sensor has gone bad.