D-Cal

Interestingly, the front discs had the same bolt holes. One disc came off easy (looked like someone had done work recently) but the other was rusted on. I tapped it with a rubber mallet a couple times, no deal. Hooked the puller onto the holes and it came right off. Unfortunately the new replacement front discs didn't have the holes, but then again they got anti-seize on the back side before they went on.

Hate to resurrect an old thread, but I found this one while doing my own brake job and thought I would add some info. I used a $15 steering wheel puller I already had to remove the disc. The bolts on my 97 Legacy GT sedan were 8mm x 1.25. The puller made it super easy to pull the disc off. Just thread the bolts in a couple turns by hand, brace the "pusher" bolt against the end of the axle and tighten until the disc pops off.

Depends if those cracks endanger the valve seat stability or not. On my 8v turbo Dodge motors we ignore them. Most good shops can put a bit of weld in there if you really want.

Around here there are sections of highway that do not have shoulders at all - in fact the road slopes down sharply from the edge of the lane into the ditch. To make matters worse, 50% of the traffic is heavy rigs, some carrying oilfield parts large enough to drive my car though. Fun in the winter. I found an amazing little emergency toolkit at Crappy Tire. I bought one for each car and keep it in the trunk. Includes the usual tools, but also hacksaw, flashlight, roll of tape, test light, bit of mechanics wire, most of the stuff needed to bodge a repair on the side of the road (where there is a "side"). Saved my butt several times already. Good kit to take yarding too.

Guys, the scale isn't the same on his graph for horsepower as it is for torque - if they aren't the same, they of course won't line up at 5252.

The vertical scaling for hp/tq has to be the same for them to cross. Mathmatically, they must cross because horsepower is a function of rpm and torque.

MLS stands for Multi Layer Steel. I'm a relative newbie to Subarus, but many turbo imports in various arenas have been using them with good success. From your carnage pic it looks like there's a weak spot in the design unfortunately. Fel Pro makes a "Permatorque MLS" and they do list some Subaru applications, not sure if they make them for the earlier motors or not. Cometic also makes a good gasket.

Try a decent MLS gasket and some ARP studs instead of bolts. Be sure to follow ARPs torqueing instructions to the letter, including the lube.

I've had excellent luck with Raybestos pads.

Urethane bushings used, and did they grease them?

Mobil 1 in everything.

www.sdsefi.com They're good people.

I passed on the LM1 because I couldn't see myself reading the display at all while moving. I did a lot of research on WB before buying and I found that most kits satisfied the "basics" for WB tuning, but where they varied quite widely was in the "perks" like datalogging. Look closely at the software they provide, # channels they can datalog, etc. Some also give you more information than others about the health of the sensor, status of the heater, etc. Very important if you're trying to figure out whether the readings are real, or the sensor has gone bad.

The tip coating on the silverstars appears to be somewhat reflective on the inside of the bulb, which would cast more light onto the reflector. Otherwise the elements and components, even the method of construction seemed the same as the GEs, at least in the glass bulb. The metal bases were signifigantly different. I just held them up side by side and examined them in detail. They are probably made to different specs in the same factory. Buy a set like I did and find out for yourself. You actually expect a meaningful answer from a manufacturer? The silverstars are definitely brigher and I can see better, all I know. Didn't see any Xtraviews in the places I looked. BTW, there are $3-5 rebate coupons on the Sylvania web site for anyone thinking of buying a set.

You saw this page? http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/Products/ProductComparison/default.htm It shows a not-very-precise quasi-pie graph difference in luminance, and the click-through thingy states the following: "Brightness Brightness, associated with luminance, is the amount of light reflected in a particular direction. High performance halogen headlights, such as SYLVANIA SilverStar® and XtraVision®, have greater luminance than standard halogen headlights and direct more light on the road. Luminance is different from lumen (the basic measure of light output). The definition of luminance is the amount of visible light on a point on a surface in a given direction or increased light in the most important spots on the road while driving. Higher Luminance is achieved through increased control of the filament and, overall, control of the light coming off of the filament. Light output (lumens) isn't increased but the light is made more useful." Also, somewhat to their credit they show the rated life as being about 1/3 that of a standard bulb. "The bulb that burns 120% as bright, burns 1/3 as long" or something like that I guess.

I put a pair in last night, 9003s. They are definitely brighter than the stock GE units they replaced, and whiter. We'll see what kind of longevity they have. The kid at the parts store said all of the guys who work there have them in their cars and they typically get a couple of years out of them. They also had PIAA bulbs, but the price was ridiculous. Might try getting a pair of those from an online retailer with a more realistic price for the next set. I drive to and from work in the dark, so I had to do something about the ************ty stock headlights.

Another reason a turbo car suffers from slightly lower mileage than a comparable normally aspirated car is that there is a huge restriction in the exhaust - the turbo. Off-boost mileage suffers from this, never mind those of us who can't get enough of the onset of boost.

Valve guides? Seals?

Sulphur smell could indicate a plugged catalytic converter. Another possibility is that your coolant temperature sensor or associated wiring is malfunctioning and causing the car to run rich. If the car is running rich (for whatever reason), this could also cause your catalytic converter(s) to fail, foul your O2 sensor, etc. compounding the problem. Also, if you are in fact running rich, be careful - excess gasoline can remove the lubrication of the rings in the combustion chamber and cause serious engine problems. I would figure this problem out soonish without driving the car too much.

I had a 93 Dodge Shadow stolen recently and got a $3500CDN payout for it from my insurance company. I faxed them all my receipts for parts I had replaced on the car within the last year or so and they gave me top dollar. Hopefully you can get a similar deal.

Make sure you run a dedicated ground for the gauge back to the negative post of the battery. Tying it in somewhere else will often give you an inaccurate reading. The sensor voltage is in the range 0-1v, so changes as small as 0.1v will be seen on the gauge as two lights.

Canadian Subarus use a custom alarm made to Subaru specs by www.gitsecurity.com. Not sure if they cover all model years, which ones, or what. My 97 had it. They have reprogramming manuals and installation instructions online. I was able to do a dealer reprogram of certain options on my own with the information.

LOL you have far too much faith in ricer parts. Expensive doesn't necessarily equal quality. They probably just figured the minor hassle of doing a recalibration periodically wouldn't fly with the average joe. At least the sensors aren't too expensive, I think they were $67 from Summit.

WJM: Dunno if you got a manual for that unit, but it's here online. http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=4208&sid=ddad7a6491168e5b5067293995a98d7e It's a bit messed, right click on the download link and save the file then rename it to something.PDF. I see what you were talking about with the resistor. I'm somewhat skeptical that can compensate for an aging sensor though. It's probably a thermistor with a trim pot. Wow, the dual unit draws 2.6As nominal for the two sensors, probably 5-6A on cold startup! Definitely can't leave the car on Run for any length of time. The manual says 30-36" from the exhaust port. I believe turbo suby turbo headers are pretty long, so it sounds like you should be fine. You've probably cut the cats off by now, right? A stock cat can cause 8-9psi of back pressure on a high boost turbo car, particularly with a small exhaust.