sequoiadogg Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I am looking to buy an Legacy/Outback model for the AWD & decent gas milage. The used car selection is pretty limited where I live. I found a '99 Legacy Outback Limited Edition for sale at a used car lot asking $11,999. It's in excellent condition inside & out with everthing working/running good; by far the nicest looking used subaru I've seen and with only 43,000 miles on the Odometer. I was going to offer $10,500 until the dealer told me the actual miles on the car is unknown for unknown reasons. I ran a CARFAX which shows an Odometer reading of 87,514 on 6/22/04 and a reading of 41,542 on 11/14/05. It's hard to tell how many miles for sure, but I would guess 87,000 plus 43,000 which is 130,000 miles. The car has had 3 owners (New York, Wisconsin & California). Has anyone heard of Odometer Problems for this model? Would I be taking a huge risk buying this car? I would take it to my mechanic before actually purchasing it. All your input helps, Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subeman90 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I was at a local dealer just last week and my wife saw people there that she knew. Long story short they had a 98 or 99 legacy that was going to have to get a replacement speedo head into it because something was broken. I have heard of this before but I personally have no experience with the problem. Most cars when they have a replacement put in there is a sticker put on the car in the drivers door jam that states that there is a replacement speedo head in the car and what mileage it was when it stopped. I think subaru might also be able to get the mileage from the car's computer too but that I am not sure of (as long as it is origional) Would I buy the car though....Maybe but at a considerable discount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sequoiadogg Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 Thanks for the tip on the driver door jam sticker, I'll take a look. Would you consider an offer of $8,000 to be fair, or still too high, or too low? Remember, I have very little selection to choose from, but then again, I can be patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunered Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 walk away,most states require a statement be on file with this change,if the dealer dont have it he needs to find out.here in my state thats illegal. and thats a lot of money not knowing what you are getting.would you be interested in a bridge aaaawwwww never mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Of course the dealer doesn't know about the discrepany; he doesn't WANT to know. The mileages in the Carfax are probably correct and there's certainly been some rollback. The tip-off is the three different owners in vastly different areas of the country; and the fact that it's in California makes it four areas. The car has likely been purchased in a "dealer" auction at least one or more times. Each time it goes out of state is an opportunity to "wash" the title of the true mileage of the car. Now 130K miles is not a problem with the car you're buying, but I'd certainly have a reputable shop do a pre-purchase inspection of the car and offer a price more in line with the suspected high mileage and true condition of the car. Check Kelly Blue Book or NADA for suggested "fair" prices; know that KBB will be high and NADA will usually be much lower. If the car passes muster, I'd offer a price close to the NADA value and see what happens. Another alternative is to buy a car in another area where the selection is much more "buyer friendly." Saving $4K or $5K can go a long way toward re-imbursing you for the inconvenience of a long distance purchase. Lastly, try www.autotrader.com and search for comparable cars to this one within a 300 mile radius of your location and a price spead of $4K to $15K and see what other dealers are offering for similar vehicles. Recognize also, that dealer cars are usually priced higher than "private" sales. Good luck. One last thing, try to obtain service records for the car to determine the last time the timing belt had been replaced. Important to know on this engine since it's an interference motor and if the belt breaks unexpectedly, the engine will likely be trashed. If they don't know, get an estimate from a reputable mechanic for the cost of timing belt replacement and subtract that amount from your offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subeman90 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 When you buy a car that has an odometer issue the car is known as TMU. (true mileage unknown) These cars have a really bad resale usually so keep that in mind....if you are the type to drive it till it dies then maybe it isn't so bad but if you are going to drive it a few years then buy something else forget it. If you want my opinion on price.... If the dealer can't come up with supporting paperwork offer $7500. Remind the dealer how hard it is to sell a TMU car and myabe he just might do it. Who knows.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I recently had the instrument cluster on my 00 replaced because the clock was inaccurate! Yep, that was a fine warranty I had! Anyway, long story short, it took about two weeks because they sent the new unit to somewhere in Ca. to have the original mileage transferred to the new odometer. So, yes it can be done reputably and that is the operative word! Jeesh, who ever heard of a disreputable car dealer? Hmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I hate to discourage somebody from a purchase in Humbolt right after harvest time but omce donw to SF. We have a ton here. Look on Craigslist. A 99 Outback has a phase 1 head gasket eater in it. 200 should have a phase 2 which is a better engine. If you can't trust them on mileage how can you trust them for the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sequoiadogg Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 So I went ahead and made an offer. I blue booked it at $11,205 (excellent condition w/120,000 miles) Subtracted $650 for new time belt, tensioner, & water pump Subtracted $200 assuming bad master cylinder Subtracted $500 for condition (almost excellent) Subtracted $3,000 for total miles unknown I offered $6,855. Thinking I would max at $7,500 They didn't kick me out, but they said there bottom line was $10,500 Oh well, I'll let somebody else have that one. Thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunered Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 taking into consideration the whole affair,you did the right thing. just because it is a subaru dosent mean that it is a good car,most are some arent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I am of the same vintage (54) as Tunered and agree with the sagacity of his age. You did the right thing. They will probably call you back and try and sweeten up the deal but hold firm if'n you calculated the risk into your offering price. taking into consideration the whole affair,you did the right thing. just because it is a subaru dosent mean that it is a good car,most are some arent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 You made the right decision walking away from it. Even 10,500 is much too high. I'd bet a beer that they call you in a few days with a new "low" figure. Don't bite until they come within a $100 of your bottem line number; your number is valid since you'll likely be spending the difference resolving the issues on this car. Good luck. Check out the stuff on the SF craigslist and see if a local member can inspect any suitable candidate you find and then take a quickie weekend to SF. So I went ahead and made an offer. I blue booked it at $11,205 (excellent condition w/120,000 miles) Subtracted $650 for new time belt, tensioner, & water pump Subtracted $200 assuming bad master cylinder Subtracted $500 for condition (almost excellent) Subtracted $3,000 for total miles unknown I offered $6,855. Thinking I would max at $7,500 They didn't kick me out, but they said there bottom line was $10,500 Oh well, I'll let somebody else have that one. Thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 but I think that may be another subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I'm thinking that a lot of Big Easy seriously flood-damaged cars are finding their way onto lots right about now, so be careful. Car's that are so bad that they're created from several car's salvage. Carfax is crap, dont trust it. My BS detector is saying run from that car, don't walk. ESPECIALLY if they cave on the price. Always be ready to walk on a sale. The minute you start developing an emotional bond to a car you know nothing about is the moment you get suckered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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