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pulling heads on ea82


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there really isnt a whole lot to pulling the heads off, but it is a hell of alot easier to get them off with the motor out of the car, this was the first time i pulled the head off my motor and i had it off in about 45 minutes maybe less, and if the issue is the ticking then its nothing to worry about its a common thing for these lol

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Ditto on the ticking - if you have a lot of ticking, then it may be a weak oil pump, but if there is one in particlar valve, it is probably a bad lash adjuster. I have had luck using Marvel Mystery Oil to fix those, just add it next oil change.

 

If you do decide to pull the heads...

There also tend to be "bridge cracks" between the valves, they are not to worry about unless they go deep enough to damage the valve seat/coolant passage There was actually a TSB about it, I think it was on this site somewhere, but I do not recall where - search should yield valueable info on the removal/installation just be sure to loosen/tighten the head bolts in the proper order to prevent head warping/damage, you will also want to have the heads resurfaced by a machine shop before reinstallation, or else your new head gasket my blow soon after installation. Don't be too afraid of pulling the engine, the EA82's in general seem to come apart/go back together very easily, and having clear access to the engine is important. The engine itself is relatively light, being aluminum, and of horizontal design.

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sorry I had the car at the mechanic for timing belts he tore off the covers said it wasn't the timing belts, (car was running hot, and pretty weak) he said 1 and 3 cyclinder are getting no compression so he tore the covers off and said the head needs to come off and go to a machine shop, gave me a quote of around 1,000 bucks, I have yet to see whats wrong with it as its 60 miles away I figured I could take a day off if its not to difficult and possibly just put on a new head, any thoughts?

 

 

thanks alot for the responses I really appreciate it im pretty dumb when it comes to these motors

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if you need a head i may have one that is yours for shipping only let me know if you need one once its off.....

 

you can pull the heads with the motor in the car if you dont have the ablity to pull the motor out.... (i would rent a engin hoist myself)

 

it will be tight and very trying but if you take your time it will go ok,,,

 

just so you know the 1000 he quoted well most shopes charge 300+ for a tbelt job(takes me about 1.75 hours on an ea82) and 1200-1500 for a reseal(headgaskets and such) and that takes about 5 hours for me. a good mechanic with the right tools can do it in 3 or so if they have a lift and all the right tools. just because the price is high dosnt mean its hard.

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if you need a head i may have one that is yours for shipping only let me know if you need one once its off.....

 

you can pull the heads with the motor in the car if you dont have the ablity to pull the motor out.... (i would rent a engin hoist myself)

 

it will be tight and very trying but if you take your time it will go ok,,,

 

just so you know the 1000 he quoted well most shopes charge 300+ for a tbelt job(takes me about 1.75 hours on an ea82) and 1200-1500 for a reseal(headgaskets and such) and that takes about 5 hours for me. a good mechanic with the right tools can do it in 3 or so if they have a lift and all the right tools. just because the price is high dosnt mean its hard.

 

thanks i would really appreciate that I'll let you know once i get into it, might be a week or so,

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the HG job is a pain with motor in car. grab yourself a $15 chiltons/haynes manual, it will tell you exactly how to do it. hope you have another car you can use to run errands, you never get everything you need the first trip to the auto parts store. 2 brains are better than one, grab a friend, if possible, that konws someting about motors if you dont already. if oyu pull motor, MARK everything that you pull/cut apart. $1000 for a HG job, why so spendy....because they're a pain to do. still sounds a little steep. in the pacific NW you can get a used motor bought and put in for that much. OR......this could be a sign that your car wants an EJ motor under the hood :brow:

 

 

~Josh~

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i disagree about the head gasket being a pain in the car. it is nice to have the engine out of the car, so if you like doing that and have the means then tear it up. i normally work on the 6 cylinder XT6's which are trickier and have less room to work with and more bolts. done a number of head gaskets and the first time i did an EA82 was a breeze. the biggest hinderance is rusted or stuck bolts (read...intake manifold bolts). otherwise i had no problem. $1,000 seems high. i did head gaskets, ported and polished cylinder heads, valve job, heads resurfaced, reground aggressive cams and all new engine seals, timing belts and new timing pulleys for about that for someone else.

 

i've swapped one cam and two HLA's in 2 hours (granted it was the easier p/s side). just the head bolts after that to get the heads off. if you have an air compressor it's SUPER quick. have a wobble socket ready to get to all the head bolts and zip-zip you're on it like a hornet.

 

good luck and have fun,

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Double check the timing belts. I have bought subarus before (really cheap) whose owners were told they needed a new engine, and all they needed was someone who knew how to install the timing belts right.

 

will do thanks Im gonna pick it up here in a couple of days and get started im gonna replace them anyways i mean why go to this much work and leave them in? I don't know the history of the car anyways bought it a month ago to drive my daily commute 120 miles total to keep the miles off my S.H.O. like the car though and might get addicted :D

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like the car though and might get addicted :D

I know what you mean - Subarus are addictive - don't ask why:cool:

 

I agree tho - check the timing belts first for correct installation, as it is a funny (but easy) proceedure

 

These cars are REALLY easy to work on - I learned basic mechanics on mine litereally in the 5th/6th grades - and I am not that smart - just follow the manual, and you will be fine

 

Gates belts are a good option (various auto parts stores sell that brand) I tend to shy away from aftermarket oil seals though, as I have had bad expierences with them. It may be a good idea to replace the T-belt tensioners as well, and do a basic reseal, especially if you have the engine out (cam tower/valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, camshaft gaskets, front & rear main seals, oil pump mickey mouse gasket and shaft gasket). Use a good quality silicone sealant for cam tower/valve cover gaskets as well as the oil pan gasket. I think the oil pump gasket also requires some silicone selant. I like Permatex's Ultra Copper, but there are other good ones out there as well. This will save you a lot of annoying oil leaks in the future. - Well worth it if you like the car.

 

Good Luck

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I just did the head swap myself (on my ea82t) and the heads alone were 300 apiece brand new. I got them direct from subaru at what i think is a good discount as I have friend who's a parts manager of a major dealer. The 1000 is actually pretty reasonable if it includes the parts. The haynes manual for that year (I have it) doesn't address at all the timing and distributor setting for that motor, so be forwarned that you will need to either pay close attention to how it is now or have someone subaru smart around to help you get everything back together right. Whoever suggested writing everything down (and maybe even taking careful pictures) is right on. The heads for each side may also be different from each other (mine were, but it could be the turbo coolant feeds on my passenger head), so make sure you get the right parts. The 1/3 (driver) side is tricky to do with the motor in the car, but if you have two strong guys you can actually lift the motor out using your hands if you take the intake manifold and other accessories off first (just be careful).

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sorry I had the car at the mechanic for timing belts he tore off the covers said it wasn't the timing belts, (car was running hot, and pretty weak) he said 1 and 3 cyclinder are getting no compression so he tore the covers off and said the head needs to come off and go to a machine shop, gave me a quote of around 1,000 bucks, I have yet to see whats wrong with it as its 60 miles away I figured I could take a day off if its not to difficult and possibly just put on a new head, any thoughts?

 

Since cyls 1 & 3 are on the same side, I wonder if maybe that timing belt slipped a tooth or two, and that is why you have no compression on that side. That happened to me the first time I did the belts. When I put that belt on right, power and compression came back.

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  • 3 weeks later...
ill go look in the morrow. ive got lots of lifters also...

 

 

Still got a head tailgate? Finally got mine off, a mechanic that I had put a Helicoil in it went in to the valve when he was putting in the helicoil. well let me know if i can buy one from you, If you had a complete head I would be very much in debt :D.

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